Jump to content

Coyle996

Members
  • Posts

    7
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

2 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hamburg, NJ
  • My Project Cars
    1940 Chrysler New Yorker
    1965 Dodge D100
    1989 Dodge Daytona CS
    2010 Challenger R/T
    2020 Wrangler Rubicon

Converted

  • Location
    Hamburg, NJ
  • Interests
    Food.

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Next question about my brake master cylinder. I know this is wrong... I know the master cylinder is incorrect, but that seems to he easy to find. Could anyone tell me how the master cylinder is supposed to mount on this car? Bolt straight to that frame rail on the right, or is there a bracket? Thanks!
  2. THAT makes way more sense. THANK YOU! There was a lot of head scratching today. I guess there is info on this elsewhere in the factory service manual? I'm an electrician by trade and correct looking wiring not on the wiring diagram was causing my head to spin!
  3. Alright guys. Next question. As this car is a 1940 I assumed it was a 3 speed with fluid drive. Serial number is from 1940, title says 1940. Short question: What transmission do I have?? Long question: I am getting confused. I found this (see photo) on the side of the trans, and I'm guessing this is a Vacamatic part? The interruptor switch? The serial number for this car makes is a super late '40. Is it possible it was built as a '41 at least as far as the transmission goes? The wiring colors are correct to the 1940 wiring diagram, but then there is Vacamatic stuff in the wire loom. For example my horn wiring is 1940 colors (which are different to 1941 colors) but I have the Vacamatic relay on the firewall and looks to be wired as part of the factory loom. The previous owner said he drove it like a standard 3 on the tree. Looking around, where is the vacuum control unit? Thanks!
  4. Thanks Robert. Do you know which suppliers would have the rubber nipples? Everything Ive come across looks too thick. Looks like I would want only 3/16" thick. Everything looks to be about 1/2" I agree. The Firestone Cokers look right.
  5. Hey All, I've been digging around the car and this site and have a couple questions. Hope y'all can help. Little back info: '40 New Yorker. Straight 8. Older Restoration. Trans is new, engine will be rebuilt. The goal is a stock driver for around town and weekend drives. 1. What is the correct under-hood fuel routing? There is currently an electric fuel pump and regulator on the firewall, this will not stand. I assume correct routing under-hood is hard line from the font to rubber hose to fuel pump, then is is just hard line from pump to carb? I'm not massively worried about a filter as the fuel tank and lines are all new and stainless, I would rather go factory. 2. Is there supposed to be rubber between the hood and the fender? There are many little holes that look like they would be a perfect spot for rubber nipples to keep the hood from rubbing. 3. Brakes are my number 1 priority, and this car has had some... creative fixes over the years. Is there supposed to be a rubber line coming out of the master cylinder, or is it supposed to be straight to hard line? I have seen "Master Cylinder Hose" for sale, but this looks like later cars? Right now it is master cylinder>adapter>adapter>flare nut>hardline... 4. What are my tire options? My wife wants whitewalls, so whitewalls it is. I've been looking at the Coker stuff. Looks nice. Am I wrong? 5. Pulling the motor. We are removing the hood, front fenders, and cowl. I've read conflicting things. Do we drop the trans before we pull the motor, or pull it as a unit. Trans is new, so we have no real need to work on it. Thanks guys!
  6. It's an 8.
  7. Hi Guys and gals, I've recently bartered myself into a 1940 Chrysler New Yorker. The paint and interior have been redone at some point, and they are still in good condition. Transmission has been rebuilt and the fuel tank was replaced with a stainless one. We are going to pull the motor for our local race shop to rebuild soon. I have to go through the brakes and replace the tires and she should be a great driver. The wiring needs gone through too, but that's my specialty. Just wanted to say hi. No questions at this point, but I have been lurking the site and gaining some knowledge before diving into this project. Thanks, Chris
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use