
Tom_S
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Location
Oregon
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My Project Cars
I have my Grandmothers 1947 (or 46?) Super Delux that has been in the barn for 15 years since it was last run
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Location
Oregon
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Interests
small farm, movies
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My OP didn't address the length of the lining on the shoes as all 8 shoes I received are identical. So I was just merrily going along believing that I have the right shoes. I'm hoping that I don't have to have both short and long linnings? What I am specifically worried about is the mating of the pin and cup in the replacements that I received. The longer pin seems to be fine. But, the short pin, similar to the one second from the left in your photo, does not seat into the cup. That shoulder ring at the tip of the pin is too large to allow the pin to fully seat in the cup (see the photo I posted above). This has the effect of making the short pin the same length (or even longer!) than the long pin. Do I have the wrong pin? Do I need to get a different pin or cup, or both? I hope to hear from the supplier on Monday and maybe he will provide a solution.
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Thanks! I made that work for these photos (above)
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Tom_S started following Reccomendation for pressure brake bleader for P-15 , New wheel cylinders/pins and Removing rear drums
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Learning a lot as I slowly move through this task. I got a brake total overhaul kit and had to order a set of cylinder/shoe push rods because the old brakes (original, I’m told!) had them riveted to the shoe. The new set came with long and short ones. The vendor told me to put the long ones on the front shoe, short ones to the back shoe. Not only are the pins different lengths, but the end that sits in the cup is shaped differently. The long pin seats firmly all the way down in the cup, but the short one has a shoulder that prevents it from fully seating in the cup. All of the force will be applied to the shoulder. Is this normal, or could the short (shouldered) ones be wrong? (I have some photos but I can’t seem to upload them from my iPhone 😠)
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I got the drum on! It was a combination of issues. The biggest being that I didn't understand the minor adjustors. But, and this is a big one, the springs that came with my brake kit seem to be too weak to fully retract the shoes. I opened the cylinder bleader and manually squeezed the toes of the shoes together to force the cups in- and they went! I closed the bleeder and was able to slide the drum on, but I guess the shoes eeked back out a little and I had a struggle removing it. I took the new spring off and put the old one back on. I was able to the brake adjustment procedure a couple of times to get an approximation of good. Now Ill work on the other 3 wheels then bleed and adjust again. I feel so much better Thanks all for your help and suggestions🙂
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I just got my RR drum back from being turned at the machine shop. I was excited thinking that I was on the home stretch. New brakes and cylinder installed, but the drum won’t slide over the brakes. I have the adjusters retracted (arrows pointing toward each other). What else can I do? The rear only has a major adjuster on the heel of the brake, no minor one that I can see. There is a spring loaded 3/4” nut that appears to hold the shoe retaining clip. Is that somehow a minor adjuster?
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SUCCESS!! another 3 thwacks and… pop! glad left the nut on. I guess I was just a little impatient:-)
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Great advice- Thanks! I'll be sure to stand to the side.
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I have read much of the previous info about the challenges. I got the RR off with out too much pounding. But the LR ... I can't figure out how to back off the adjusters. If I attempt to turn them I only tighten or loosen the retaining nut and there is no marking on the bolt showing the high point of the cam. I don't think I want to take the nut off and use vice-grips-I would ruin the threadson the adjusting bolt, right?. With the nut on, none of the bolt sticks out. The drum will not turn. To be fair, the RR didn't turn before I popped it off either, and I see that the years of not moving in the NW have allowed much rust to form on the inside of the drum. I'm thinking that the drum may be siezed to brakes? I have a puller on the drum (overnight) and have been periodically tapping it tigter, but how much force on the puller is too much. When I tap it with my 2# hammer it still moves the puller cross-bar a small amount with each hit. Do I just keep going until it popps off? Or is there a point at which I need to stop and regroup? Before I began the brake job, I tried to move the car with a tow strap and it would not budge. I'm pretty sure I was able to get the shift lever into neutral and I had never set the emergency brake so I'm further wondering what is siezed. With prolonged barn storage, could the differential, or rear axle be the culprit, if it isn't actually the drum/brakes?
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I'm doing a one-man brake job and will need to blead the brakes next week. I have attempted to locate the KD Tools bleader that is suggested in the "Brakes" Technical topics section, but have not been succesfull locating that one. With all of the products available, and bad reviews about sealing them to the master cylinder, I was hoping that the "hive mind" in here may have some suggestions on ones currently available that have worked for you.
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OK, Thanks! I'm working on the rear first. I have removed one of the drums. I'll do that rebuild, then move to the other side. (I have a complete brake rebuild kit from MoparPro). That drum came off with the puller much easier than I had heard (on these forums) that it would. What a relief! Although the key stayed in the hub. Should I remove the key or can it remain there?
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It's been 40 years since I have done any significant work on a car and now I'm starting on my '47 P15! Doing the brakes. I'm wondering where the best location is for jack stands if I'm going to take all 4 wheels off? Should I place them under the frame? Or, the axle and front suspension? I noticed that when I jacked up the frame and set the stands under the rear axle the body dropped a bunch when I let the jack down. I would rather have the body a little higher if that would be safe.
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Success! Thank you all for your suggestions. Thanks to them and that special drum removal tool- the BFH, I now have both front drums off. On to the rear drums and then I'll work on brakes.
- 11 replies
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- stuck drum
- stuck brake
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(and 1 more)
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No, I haven't loosened that nut. I'm taking all suggestions I can get! I'll give those a try tomorrow ?.
- 11 replies
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- stuck drum
- stuck brake
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(and 1 more)
Tagged with: