T Hancock

Thank you all for sharing your knowledge on this subject.

Thanks, that was the approach I was going to take. It helps for some confirmation. I see that you asked about brake fluid, I have no idea what is in there. I'm assuming just to be sure I should just flush the entire system and placed Dot 5?

I have a question. I own a 1936 Dodge D2. This car was gone through an extensive ground up frame off nut and bolt restoration five tears ago. During the previous ownership he would trailer it to events rather than drive it. I bought it last year and have driven it since I have owned it. One day I noticed that the brake pedal was a bit stiff and when I applied more pressure it seemed to release and then it would pull left. I thought that was odd. I pulled the front driver wheel and drum to check the pads with the brake pad tool for even distance and it was fine. Headed over to the pass side and the front shoe was tight up against the tool while the back shoe was about a sixteenth of an inch away from the tool. I could not get the front shoe to depress in any further into the wheel cylinder either. Oh I for got to mention that I noticed that the pass side prior to me driving it and getting that reaction from the pedal I previously mention, I noticed that the pass front was hanging up. Not sure if this would be caused by contaminated fluid causing an issue with the retraction of the wheel cylinder or possible brake hose collapse. Your guys input would be helpful. Thanks in advance.

I did all they have are the retainer clips, I need the retainer

Hey everybody. I'm just about done with my engine reassembly and saw that a valve retainer looks damaged. It would probably work but I would rather replace it. I have checked the parts sites, Oldmoparparts, Andy Bernbaum with no luck. If anybody would know where I might be able to purchase a couple of these it would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance

God point.

Thanks, I am not changing anything inside or out. I want it to remain as is. No messing around with permanent changes. Just wondering the best route. I've restored many cars but this is my second post war Plymouth. I really like the look of the split manifold with dual carb setup, but I was curious of if that would devalue the car.

Very nice. I'm torn on how to proceed with under the hood on mine. I found this car in a guys garage. His Dad owned it since 1968, his Dad bought it from the original owner and it was in Phoenix ever since . It has 30k original actual miles. Everything and I mean everything is original to the car. Spare never out of the trunk. No cracks in the steering wheel , dash is perfect. So in your guys opinion, should I keep it as original as possible or do a mild custom look under the hood?

The last time I did it I cut one coil and it dropped it almost 2 inches exactly. You just need to be careful on where you cut it to make sure it still lines up right with the bottom

Thanks for the tip. I got some of the Aerostar springs from NAPA for $71.00 a long with 2 inch drop blocks. I had done the same with my 49 and it worked great.

Thanks for the responses.

Thank you sir.

I noticed that the 48's springs aren't as tall as the 49's

I have a 48 Plymouth Special Deluxe 2dr coupe. I am wanting to drop it 2 inches. When I had my 49 Business coupe I had read that a set of 91 Ford Aerostar front springs were exactly the same size as the 49's front springs and they were correct. I was just wondering if anyone here had experimented with any other springs for a 48. The front suspensions of the two cars are completely different. Any help would be appreciated.