themanchild

Just took it to Des Moines Goodguys. It has a 6" chop, stubbed torsion bar front end, mid 70s Dodge 318 and trans, power brakes and steering, tilt steering column, custom interior, 51 Buick grill, early 50s Chevy front bumper, and a beer keg gas tank. It runs and drives pretty good. Could use some light body work or drive it the way it is (I was!). Need $5500 out of it because I have to pay off a loan.

I have the grille parts that are in the grille opening(not the parts below the lights). Including Job Rated center part. All parts in really decent condition. -$50 plus shipping. Front Bumper. Straight and not rusty. Great condition. Took off because I thought it was bent but it turned out to be the supports that were bent. -$75 plus shipping. Chrome "moon style" hubcaps. Fit the 15" wheels great and look really sharp. Set of 4. -$25 plus shipping. Full windsheild outside visor. Customized to fit Pilothouses perfectly. See through blue color. Great condition. -$50 plus shipping. Mid 70's Dodge 318 4barrel intake. Worked great and is in overall great condition. -$25 plus shipping. I will post pictures of all item tomorrow. Wanted: 1953+ rear pass. fender, windshield wiper motors.

Was the rear fender that was used on the 1953 Pilothouse the same fender as a 1957 Dodge truck? It looks like it in pictures but would like to make sure before I buy the fender. Thanks

Thanks for all the feedback guys, I appreciate it. The reason I went with the Chebby bumper was kind of a mix of issues I was having. The first issue was that the orignal bumper was dented and bent upwards on the right by about an inch. Cant tell in the pictures but it was really crooked when you looked at it straight on. So I needed a new bumper for it. The second issue was the style I was going for. I wanted something that sat closer to the body than the original. The first choice for a new bumper that would sit closer to the body was a 49 Plymouth bumper. The third issue was money. After looking around various places I realized I couldnt pick up the much desired 49 Plymouth bumper for less than $200(shipped). So that was out of the question. I ended up finding the Chebby bumper on evilbay. It was a brand new reproduction bumper that had been powder coated black. It cost me $35 plus $15 for shipping. Not a hard decision on that one. In conclusion the new Chebby bumper is straight, sits nice and close to the body, fits into my budget, and overall just goes with the plan I have for the truck. I prefer putting Mopar stuff on Mopars, Chebby on Chevys, Fourd on Fords, etc.. but for the overall Hot Rod/Custom look it just didnt work out like that this time. Also that is an early 70s Dodge 318 powerplant in the engine bay. Nice little engine. Parts are available almost anywhere and gives it that get up and go. Thanks again for the feedback.

So thought I'd show what I've been up to. New front look consists of the buick grille that I posted in an earlier thread, two 5 1/2 inch chrome bullets from ebay, and a 48-54 chevy truck bumper. The grille is not yet finished and I only have it sitting in the opening to get the idea across. Going to just post a link to another forum site because the pics are bigger there and dont have time to resize it for here. Hope this is ok with everyone. http://www.killbillet.com/showthread.php?t=16120

I have a 1978 Dodge Diplomat torsion bar front end under the truck. The camber is terrible! Actually beyond terrible, its hella scary. Just wondering if anybody has any experience with these torsion bar suspensions and could help out with the camber adjustments. Just not sure how to do it.

So I have a 1953 B4B. Now that the weather is turning for the better Im gunna get a chance to go through the engine. Im gunna do a bolt-on rebuild of the engine and need to access the engine a little better. I have searched the forums but just want some clearer answers. First: how do I take the 3-part hood off as one piece?? Second: Ive read about taking the remaining front clip off as one piece, im a little confused as to what all is required to do this. Any diagrams, step by step, and general advice would really help me out. Thanks

Thank you good sir, yeah I have it on the HAMB but Im most active on Killbillet.com.

Here are a few more pictures of the truck... Well one picture with 2 different colorings.....I dont know, Im just bored waiting for this darned winter to get over so I can work on the truck.

Iam now going to be painting my truck with rollers. Thanks for the tips.

Is there a specific range in years to look for?

Not sure what trans is in it, spring time ill be able to verify which of the two trans that were offered in the dodge diplomat this one is. Its a 3spd auto. that I shift through the gears manually. In Drive it does seem to stagger going through the gears, so thats why I manually shift(plus it feels like Im actually cool). When I do this it doesnt slip but engages very easily and I go through all 3. It just gets to the point that i can tell im at about 3000rpm and not really gaining much speed. And my phone has an acceleramoter that tells me my speed and also Ive done the "you drive 45 and then ill match that and see what my speedo says" with my buddies and it all matches up.

Was the stock rear an open or closed rear? I have only one tire providing power with this rear. When it get nicer out I was going to take a look at the rear up close.

Hey everybody, Ive been lurking here for a bit and decided I might as well jump in and introduce myself and my truck. And then also ask a question. Ok, My friends call me JB. Im from Des Moines, Iowa. Im 23 and diving hard into the classic car and truck world. I bought this baby about 8 months ago. Has a 318, auto, power brakes and steering, and a 6" chop. Also has a 78 dodge diplomat front torsion bar suspension. First question: When Im going down the street I cant seem to get the truck to go any faster then about 50. The RPM's start to rise fast with not much response from the MPH guage. So I came to the conclusion that my rearend is too low. Im thinking 4.10 or even lower. Is there a rearend with higher gearing(2.7-3.4) that is a bolt up replacement and still use the same bolt pattern and have the correct width? ***the picture at the end is as it sits right now......sad.....