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Noah

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Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1957 Dodge D100, 6 cyl Flathead, 3 speed manual

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  • Location
    Oceanside, CA
  • Interests
    Trucks, Motorcycles, Pilot, Repair, Outdoors
  1. Noah
    Here's what I came up with testing today. Engine off: arm and field points closed, battery points open. Engine idle: same. 4.5 V on the armature Throttle some: armature points open, battery points closed, field stays closed. Armature volts increase to over 18. No arcing when disconnecting battery after 5 minute engine run. Resistance to ground Battery disconnected: arm .3ohm, field 4.2 Battery connected: .3 and 2 Ignition on, engine off. .3 and 2.1 Not sure what any of that means. Seems like it's charging way too much @ 18 v.
  2. Noah
    I would say 20-30 amps. Bouncing around a bit.
  3. Noah
    One thing I'm absolutely sure of is that I should never be absolutely sure of anything. I do believe they are hooked up correct. Larger post on the generator I have is the armature.
  4. Noah
    MAJOR UPDATE: I did install the points INCORRECTLY. The spring was not installed correctly as Plymouth Adams mentioned. Got it installed correctly and voila! runs perfect and now showing a charge!!! So, I think it may have been bad points and/or condensor originally, and then I replaced the points and didn't install them correctly so the issue persisted. I just took it for an hour cruise through town and on the highway. Not a single issue, runs strong, charges when it should!!! Until... I got home and was cleaning up the garage and figured I'd pop the hood to double check make sure everything was tight and right, this is about 5 minutes after the cruise, and the damn generator is smoking. I have a battery disconnect and unscrewed it, it was arcing as I was backing it out. I touched the voltage regulator cover and burned my hand. Something not quite right there. Mind you, brand new generator and voltage regulator. I let it cool for about 30 and hooked the battery back up, no arcing. I started and ran for about 5 minutes and tested the battery. Idling at 12.6-13. Charging at almost 14 volts when revved. So everything seems to be charging correctly, but why the smoke and scalding hot regulator?? PS. Thank you everyone for the advice and support thus far!!
  5. Noah
    Yep, got them in the right place. Ran fine a year or so after the carb rebuild.
  6. Noah
    I thought the same so I rotated the distributor to each max, advance and retarded, while throttled up and no change. Also why I cracked the carb open to see. It looks to be flowing ok, but maybe something that's hard to judge by looking. I'll take it out and clean it today although I did just rebuild and clean it within this last year. I'll start with the carb today and if nothing there I'll check compression. After that I'm out of ideas
  7. Noah
    I hooked up a tachometer and noticed when I slowly rev it will increase to about 25-2600. If I continue to increase throttle the Rpm decreases to 1700 area
  8. Noah
    Thanks. Same process to polarize generator.
  9. Noah
    Yeah got the points correct.
  10. Noah
    Well shoot. I put in a new distributor condensor and points, new plug wires, again, and the resistor. Now it doesn't show a charge and it's sputtering, opposite of what it was doing. Sputtering starts around 2500 Rpm if I were to guess. I did put a voltmeter on the battery and it was asking around 12.5, when I revved up some it did increase to 12.6, so it is charging, a little, maybe a bad ammeter? although it does show a discharge when I turn in the lights. Now I'm not so certain they're related issues. Coil resistance is 1.6 and new ballast is 1.6. Attached is my wiring diagram. https://drive.google.com/file/d/16LFvcj0q4MOKsjiRXxlvhllcXD0WblA2/view?usp=drivesdk Here are a couple videos. (I know, probably shouldn't be doing that...) Checking fuel flow, bowl seems to be at good level and good spray. Might be able to here the high rpm miss https://drive.google.com/file/d/15vSqI8a28R6Z3jEkjcHWHF78U7KKcACa/view?usp=drivesdk Spark is ok, does seem weak, light blue orange. https://drive.google.com/file/d/16LjDm-yGrRTMCn5MEFDbA-RaqzAR4pIY/view?usp=drivesdk Sniper, can you explain if I need to polarize the regulator. Quick Google search said no, just the generator.
  11. Noah
    Well shoot. I put in a new distributor condensor and points, new plug wires, again, and the resistor. Now it doesn't show a charge and it's sputtering, opposite of what it was doing. Sputtering starts around 2500 Rpm if I were to guess. I did put a voltmeter on the battery and it was asking around 12.5, when I revved up some it did increase to 12.6, so it is charging, a little, maybe a bad ammeter? although it does show a discharge when I turn in the lights. Now I'm not so certain they're related issues.
  12. Noah
    12V
  13. Noah
    Help! I do not have a ballast resistor, nor am familiar. I didn't see this in the diagram. Is there a size/specification that I need? The coil does get pretty hot. **Update: My manual says that coil resistor only applies to 8 cylinder. Does that change your thoughts?
  14. Noah
    Not through it, good catch. Same post so the headlight switch feeds off the power going from the ammeter to the ignition switch.
  15. Noah
    I do like the idea of the ignition switch possibly shorting.
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