Robert Buchanan

Thanks Mike and Don. Correct cables when I restored it about 15 years ago. Someone convinced me about 5 or 6 years ago to convert to 8 volts so I already have the battery and it's still in good condition. Just not wanting to put out for a new 6 volt anytime soon. Just bought a new house and need to wait til finances settle down a little. Hope to get at least 6 months or so out of the 8 volt.

Finally found the problem The insulation on the small jumper wire was worn and the wire was either arcing or grounding out. Fabricated a new jumper wire and started and runs fine. Again, appreciate input and help from everyone. Another learning experience. Next question. Converting to 8 volt battery. Can someone explain how to adjust the voltage regulator? With pictures would be awesome. Thanks again

I appreciate advice and input from everyone, including Desoto1939's remarks. I take no offense to anyone's comments, and really am grateful for everyone's assistance. I know it's can be irritating to try and solve a problem like this on the internet. The thing I like most about forums like this is you get to hear ideas and suggestions from so many people with so much knowledge and experience. Kind of like listening to a bunch of old timers sitting around the wood stove at the corner gas station. It's not just about solving a problem, it's about the journey. Thanks again guys, I'll keep trying til i get it.

I hear you, but with all these great experts on this forum, well........ Enjoy the rest of your weekend and thanks again.

T120 Reading .2 on the 200 scale between the movable points in the distributor and the plus terminal on the coil...

+ terminal is connected to distributor. When the points are open or closed i have 6 volts at the + terminal on the coil, at the connection point on the distributor, at the small jumper where it connects to the points and on the movable side of the points. Distributor has a good ground to the block.

Understand on HT. Brand new. Very encouraging, finally making progress. Reading 6 volts at the (+) terminal regardless of points open or closed. How and where would I troubleshoot for an open circuit? I really appreciate everyone's help. This is much better than me fumbelling around in the heat and sweat not knowing what the heck i'm doing and cussing and crying. My wife just came in and asked me what i'm doing and i explained to her i finally determined i have an open circuit i need to test for. She called me a genuis. Do I have to tell her how i figured it out?

Old coil was just above 3 ohms (3,000) on the 20 scale and the new coil is above 8 ohms (8,000) on the 20 scale on the high side. Don't remember the reading across the pos and neg terminals (low side) on the old coil but the new one is 1.6 on the 200 ohm scale. Good plug wires and coil/dist wires. 1. What is "HT" that MackTheFingern refers to? 1. Haven 't tested or checked the condensor. Is there a way to test it? I'll follow Merles' procedures and report back. Thanks again.

Update. I cleaned the point contacts and the black wire from the dist to positive side of coil. POints open with rotor and cap on i get 1.6 across the neg and pos lugs on the coil. Points closed i get nothing. I also ran a few other tests. Points open ground to pos side of battery I get .4 on stationary side of points an 0 on moveable side of points. I also get .4 on the screw that locks the points in, and .4 on several other screws within the dist. I get 0 on the black wire at the dist. Any advise?

Update. I cleaned the point contacts and the black wire from the dist to positive side of coil. POints open with rotor and cap on i get 1.6 across the neg and pos lugs on the coil. Points closed i get nothing. I also ran a few other tests. Points open ground to pos side of battery I get .4 on stationary side of points an 0 on moveable side of points. I also get .4 on the screw that locks the points in, and .4 on several other screws within the dist. I get 0 on the black wire at the dist. Pardon my ignorance, it's my parents fault. Can anyone be more specific on the testing process? Ignition on or off? Rotor and distributor on or off? Where do I place the meter leads for testing open and closed? Appreciate any advice.

They look pretty clean but i'll follow your advice. Thanks I'm going to have to study the recommendations from a couple of the other guys. I know enough about the ignition system to get myself in trouble. I'll see if i can follow the process to check with points both open and closed. Will report back tomorrow, heading out to a BBQ now. Thanks very much for the advice from everyone.

No spark when I pull the hi voltage wire from the center of the distributor and position it near the block while cranking the engine,

OK, i'll test that. Thanks very much

No spark at the plugs. I'll try what busycoupe suggests above. I understand the point/coil process better now. thanks very much

I meant over 8,000 ohms. I'll see if I can do what your suggesting but might have to wait til I get an assistant.

Black wire from distributor goess to positive terminal on coil

Would appreciate any advice on the following situation. 46 D24. Ran extremely well when I parked it 3 years ago. Drained gas tank, fuel lines, fuel filter and carb. Blew out lines and put in new gas. Brand new battery and brand new coil (previous post re coil). Coil reading 1.6 on low side and over 8 on the high side. Power from coil to button on rotor. Checked and confirmed points at .020. Power to points. Distributor, cap, rotor and all internal components are clean and look fine. No reason to believe timing has changed since car hasn't moved in 3 years. Won't start. 1. What's the relationship between the points firing and the coil sending power to the plugs? 2. Am I correct that power does not run from the points thru the rotor to the distributor? The only power involved with the rotor and cap is from the coil thru the cap? Again, I would appreciate any advice.

Thanks very much. Reading less than 4 on the high side. Replaced with a new 6 volt coil but might have the positive/negative wires switched on the coil. Does the black wire from the distributor go to the positive or negative post on the coil?

Can anyone tell me what the ohms are on the high and low sides of a 46 Dodge ignition coil? Thx