RTS 5215

Thank you Sir.

Time to revisit. My valve train is all free and turning nicely. I accidentally discovered my original problem with the engine not firing was most likely due to the muffler being rusted completely solid so no exhaust could escape, so the engine wouldn't fire and the backfiring up through the carb. Oh well, learned something there. Now that I am reassembling it seems to me that the intake / exhaust manifolds should be bolted back together before bolting them back onto the block. Opinions anyone?

Thank you

Update, valve covers are off and after some marvel oil and pb blaster everyone is moving nicely except 1 valve on #4 stays open, it pops closed if I stick a screwdriver in the spring but on the next rotation stays up, suggestions?

That's funny, the salty shouts were flying last nite. I'm going to take off the inner/outer fender as well, It seems like it will be a lot easier to get into the tighter spots.

Ok, today's update, these intake/ exaust manifolds are a beast to get off, ugh

Thank you!! I'll do it

Sorry, I'm unaccustomed to looking for advice on forums, my other projects have been small block Chevy's and I have gotten by with my own experience. My apologies. Truck ran when I parked it 15 yrs ago. 50k orig miles, very little rust, clean title. Put some mystery oil in the cylinders and worked the fan back and forth by hand to free everything up this winter. Dropped pan, cleaned, pulled filter canister and cleaned, installed new battery and turned over for a while to distribute oil. No spark to coil, replaced wire from starter motor to ignition, no spark out of coil, replaced coil, spark to distributor but not to plugs, installed ignition tune up kit, now I have spark everywhere. Carb leaked if you pour gas into it from can, I had a professional rebuild done by a fella that does my Rochesters . Pumping fuel from a can, not the old tank, got fuel and fire but now when I crank it over all I get are some occasional burps out of carb. Just thought maybe someone would say, hey dummy, you forgot A, B , or C

I did rotate before indexing, found my problem last nite, someone suggested I do a compression test. 2 dead cylinders and the other four are marginal and sporatic so it sounds like I'm headed for a valve job / head gasket. I've found a couple different parts houses to get the valves springs , gaskets etc..., anyone have a favorite?

By the way, I did drop the pan and clean out the marvel oil, along with 3 pounds of sludge, removed and cleaned out the filter canister and put in a new filter.

Pulled the #1 plug (closest to radiator?) and turned it over until I got a blast of combustion. Pulled rotor cap, started my wires where the rotor pointed in firing order 1,5,3,6,2,4. Nothing but a couple backfires, moved them all 1 hole back and got the same result. Professionally rebuilt carburetor.

I did not remove the distributor, I was able to access it from outside the truck. Set the points to .20 per manual. Replaced the little ground wire while in there, it was losing it's insulation, the points seem to be opening and closing when the lobes come round correctly, I was just reading about static timing, I just didn't think I could have gotten that far out. It ran 15 years ago when I parked it in the barn. The motor wouldn't turn by hand when I first started messing with it so I poured some marvel oil down the plug holes and started moving things back and forth with the fan to free everything up, can turning the motor counterclockwise have screwed up the timing?

1947 DODGE 6 CYL. Replaced coil, plugs, wires, points, condenser, rotor, cap with good original/ replacement parts. All I'm getting when I turn it over is some backfiring out of the carb. I've checked wire locations against manual several times, Any ideas?