Hawkhero

So I'm presuming that the material is too soft for fender welt? The originals I have are pretty stiff with some flexibility. I imagine that new, they were a little more flexible. Thanks for the tip. --Brian

I finally dug up my original steel cores and it looks like the difference is in the location of the tabs. On my P20 sedan, the top tab is about 2" from the end of the strip, which with the steel core isn't an issue since it supports the rubber. I'm thinking that these will fit but that tab will either need to be cut off or a new hole drilled. The other tabs likely will not line up, either. --Brian

Red oxide was used by nearly every auto maker in the US through the 60s. My 50 Plymouth had it (built in San Leandro). The dark green was used on body surfaces that were not body color like the inside of the trunk. I have no idea if it was used under my hood since the original buyer paid for undercoating. That crap works well since there is zero rot on the body in the areas I took the time to scrape it off. --Brian

One of the more frustrating things with the P-18 through P-23 crowd is that the weatherstrip at the front of the doors is not available. Steele didn't think there was a market, so guys have come up with their own solutions over the years. While searching for it today, I found that Steele makes the weatherstrip for 49-50 Chrysler and DeSoto convertibles and 2 door hard tops. https://www.steelerubber.com/door-weatherstrip-40-0340-73 Given that most auto makers tired to use as much of the same tooling as possible when stamping parts, wouldn't this also fit the Plymouth cars? Or were the coupes and convertibles that different? Usually I would try it out but with Steele, this stuff is $176 so it's an expensive experiment. Has anyone tried this? I imagine it lacks the metal core but it may be worth the try. --Brian

Hit post twice.

As an update to this story, I found that Steele Rubber makes a universal mounting pad that is this exact shape. https://www.steelerubber.com/universal-mounting-pad-70-0308-17 Bit pricey at $5/ft but it's dead on. --Brian

Good evening, all; While searching through the forums, I found a few threads on the rubber floor mat that was original to most of our vehicles (Especially my P20 Special Deluxe) Since no one makes the mats (And by rumor the original molds destroyed) other poster suggested using a mat from a Ford or Chevy, which are reproduced. Question: Has anyone tried this? If so, what make/year mat worked the best? I'd like to avoid making all new mistakes on my own if others have already made the same mistakes and I can have the benefit of learning from them. I have found some Ford mats without holes that may work. https://www.macsautoparts.com/store/ford-front-floor-mat-black-with-no-holes.html/?crosssell=Product_Viewed Many thanks for any help. --Brian

I've used both teflon tape and thread sealant on bolts with excellent results. Both will adjust to minor changes better than RTV and both do just fine with the higher temps. You can try nothing, but as mentioned, it could leak later on. I've learned this lesson the hard way several times. --Brian

Wow, thanks everyone! It was black when I got the car. The stuff is pretty sturdy and I'm surprised by how much was cut out when it was installed. Basically, all but one inch was cut out except at the bolt holes where it was left full width with a notch for the bolt but "hooked" so that when fitted, it didn't easily fall back out. I'll see if I can clean it up and save this stuff. Otherwise I'll check out Wichita Trimming. Thanks again!

Sorry if this is a retread. I'm in the process of prepping my P20 for paint and when I pulled the fender welt I noticed it's both rubber and T-shaped. There is no evidence that the fender welt had been replaced in the past (there's undercoating all over the bolts) and the shape is the same where it extended past the trailing edge of the fender. Was this normal for Plymouths? Or is this an anomaly of the San Leandro plant? Lastly, does anyone know where I can get this type of welting? I really liked how it looked on the car. It was very clean. Thanks, --Brian

I found valve stems at Summit Racing for $1.97 each that worked great. Part number 100 7786. They are 3/4" round but fit just fine in the 3/4" x 5/8" oval holes. I've had mine in for awhile with no leaks. The stainless valve stem covers fit on them great. --Brian

I agree with Greg. Also make sure the float is set based on the highest point. It also helps to make sure the float actually floats. If you remove the air cleaner and look into the carb with throttle wide open (Engine not running) you will probably find the intake full of fuel. Once you fix the reason the fuel is being forced through the carb, the fuel in the intake will resolve itself after a quick drive. Had the same issue on my P20 and after dinking with it, adding a regulator, etc, I found the chunk of whatever stuck in the needle. So much time and energy wasted on what I should have checked first. --Brian