flattiefreak

I was running a mr. gasket micro electric pump with the mechanical one. I have completely removed the electric one for now. I will add a switch and only use the electric pump if the car sits for a while. Since I replaced the filter, removed the pump, and readjusted the float, everything seems to be just fine. thanks

I inspected the float again and did not hear any sloshing. I fixed the problem. The float was binding on one of the walls of the carb. A little adjusting and she runs good.. Now I just need to clean the plugs and change the oil. thanks for all the help.

If I am going to be replacing anything, I figure I should just replace the entire carb.. Is there any alternatives to the Carter carbs? Ive heard of weber carbs, but dont know how good they are. What is out there that would be worth using? thanks

Im not outa the woods yet.. VERY hard to restart even with pedal 1/3 to all the way down. Itll start after around 30 seconds of cranking..and yes there is STILL gas going passed the needle and making a boiling noise..Maybe I just need a new carb or get the old one professionally rebuilt?? Any ideas? Sorry for all the problems.,

I will thanks

Problem solved! Disconnected the electric fuel poump, mashed the pedal to the floor and she started right up..runs great. The fix was replacing the fuel filter and disconnecting the backup fuel pump. thank you guys for all the help.

Thank you. Ill remove the electric pump and see how she starts tomorrow.

I did hear a small amount of sloshing, but i really dont know if the amount I heard would make a difference. The electric pump is running at 5 psi. I think Im going to disconnect the pump and only run it after the car has sat for a while. As of right now, the engine is flooded. I will let it sit overnight and give it a try tomorrow without the electric pump.The carb seems to be leaking from the inside. I looked down the throat of the carb and saw it puddled up on the throttle plate. It was even bubbling...I do not have my camera at the moment because I let my mother use it on a business trip...All of this leaking gas, boiling gas, and hard starting started immediately after I removed the dirty fuel filter.

Took the carb apart, readjusted the float. It ran great, but stalled out on me as I was pulling back in the drive way.. The carb is still leaking gas. Is there anywhere I can just buy a new carb, or get this one professionally rebuilt??

Replaced the front fuel filter and the car runs great again! Now, I have a new problem. Well, I dont know if its a problem or not.. I tooke a one mile test drive and when I cut the car off I popped the hood and I heard a boiling sound from the carb..Ive never heard this noise before until now.Why is it doing this and is it normal?

I was about to post the same thing. Before I replace the fuel hose, could it possibly be a low float level? What are the symptoms of a low float level?

Got a cll from the parts store today saying my condensor had arrived. Picked it up, installed it and new dist wire...ten minutes later I was taking it for a test drive. The problem is still there...So Im now convinved it is fuel related..I am just so aggravated because she runs sooo good in neutral, I can step on the gas and there no no hesitation, but as soon as Im moving faster than 20 or so miles per hour, the carb is popping and the car just shakes and bucks with no power....Next thing I should do is replace the fuel line..I hope this will solve my issue. Happy Easter

I will not be getting the condensor until Monday. The carb is not icing over. I checked the fuel hose again for kinks and it looks fine. The hose is about a year old. I will update this monday and determine if the condensor and points wire are at fault...

I did not do the fuel flow test yet.. I took it for another test drive and noticed that it does worse on hills than on flat surfaces..It would start cutting out and I would slow down and take my foot off the gas and wait a few seconds. It would get a little bit of power after waiting but only a little.. I am pretty set on the idea it is a collapsing fuel line under load. I will do a fuel flow test tomorrow and report back the results. thanks

I am actually using a 30 gallong tank from a truck. It has a high pressure electric pump inside the tank. I bypassed that pump by cutting the rubber hose in the tank and running a longer piece of hose to the bottom of the tank..I have ran this tank for about 2 years with no problems. I will figure it out soon. Ill blow out the hose, see if that helps, If not, Ill replace the hose with a hard line. If that doesnt work, Ill replace the condensor and the wire that goes inside the distributor.thank you guys for all the help.

I have the electric fuel pump at the tank. What size fuel line should I buy?

The type of cap im using is vented. Plus I have a vent hose on the tank..

Crawled under and didnt see anything pinched..

Alright, I will do the testto how how much fuel is flowing. I wil also replace the hose wiyth a steel line. Whatr size line should I use??

How exactly do I check the rate of fuel flow? Do I just blow out the lines?? I havent hit anything to damage the exhaust. I dont have a metal fuel line. The guy who welded in new floor pans broke the line and replaced the whole thing with a rubber line. Is this a problem??

The advance is fine as well as the wires

and I also rechecked the points and they look fine

The car starts great. I can barely touch the key and it starts cold or hot..

I have an electric pump in series with the mechanical one. The fuel line looks good and Im running 3 filters. One in the tank, outside the tank, and one after the mech fuel pump.

Thank you ..I should also mention that in neutral it runs perfectly and I can rev up with engine with no problem.