I conquered my Distribution Tube!

[Scott1953]

First of all an intro. My name is Scott and I recently bought a 53 dodge coronet 4 door. my first car project and i'm 34. Well, it runs ok but it was overheating and leaking (cooling system). I found and fixed a couple of leaks, ordered a water pump because mine was leaking badly. Removed the old water pump and figured i'd better pull that tube out and have a look. It's taken me about 2 weeks to get it out as I don't have a lot of time to devote to it. Anyhow, I was finally able to pull it free this afternoon. Now, the tube seemed to be really squeezed together (about 1/8 to 1/4" opening down the length of the tube. is that how it should look? I figured it would be more open with very little clearance between the block and the tube, mine was the opposite of this.

Also, where to buy a replacement? I think that i'd read Vintage Power Wagons, anywhere else?

Thanks again, this place is good.

Scott

[Dennis Hemingway]

Scott, Welcome to the Forum & congrats on getting your Water Distribution Tube out. I got my tube from Roberts Motor Parts.

Dennis:cool:

http://www.robertsmotorparts.com/car_parts.asp?Action=search&c=Cars+%2D+Engine+Area+%26+Related+Parts

[Normspeed]

You tackled one of the toughest jobs right up front, it's all downhill from here!

[brian hood]

Roberts seem to sell quality parts. Dollar for dollar, I am pleased with my part that I got from them.

Brian

[BobT-47P15]

Hi Scott. Welcome. Those water tubes are more narrow at the top than

the bottom. Kinda wierd, but true.

[greg g]

The design of the tube takes advantage of hydro dynamic principles to assure coolant is distributed evenly to the underside of the valve seat area. As fluid is constricted its pressures rises. as such the narrower end further away from the pump is able to raise the column of water coming out of it higher thereby assuring that it will contact the area of the casting needing to be cooled. Kinda like with your garden hose, without the nozzle the column of water escaping will only raise a few inches. Put on a nozzle to restrict and shape the flow and it will rise a few feet. The tube is the nozzle.

[Scott1953]

Thanks guys. Judging from what I'm hearing and looking at the picture that Dennis attached, my tube was in fine condition other than it was covered with what appears to be dark brown mud. I backflushed the block through the neck on the head using a homemade adapter to hook up to my garden hose. Then I turned around and put the old water pump back on and flushed through the inlet and out the top of the head, but knowing what we do about pressure and the path of least resistance, maybe I should put a new tube in and flush through the water pump again? What do you think? I just want this thing to cool well. When I flushed the block i had good flow coming out.

Scott

[BobT-47P15]

Have you considered removing the freeze plugs in the side of the block?

Some have found lotsa gunk in those locations....may not come out with

a regular flush. Just trying to make some more work for you. Of course,

you then have to replace with new plugs.

[Scott1953]

I'd considered removing the plugs. To replace them do I just need to find a plug with the same diameter? How do they go in? From what I've read it seems that you just have to 'tap' them in with something that fits inside the diameter of the plug. If it's really that easy then maybe I'll pull them out and flush it again.

Scott

[martybose]

I'd considered removing the plugs. To replace them do I just need to find a plug with the same diameter? How do they go in? From what I've read it seems that you just have to 'tap' them in with something that fits inside the diameter of the plug. If it's really that easy then maybe I'll pull them out and flush it again.

Scott

If you pull the freeze plugs you'll probably find a solid wall of crud that you will need to break up with something like a cut up coathanger before you can flush it out.

Marty

[BobT-47P15]

What have you guys, who have replaced the freeze plugs, used to tap

new ones in? I know it should be done, but I have never removed the

plugs on my engine.

Here's a thread with some info on the plugs. http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=9034&highlight=freeze+plugs

[Plymouthy Adams]

ball pien hammer rounded end against the center of the plug..hit surface with another hammer..hardened steel..shattering metal a probability..use safety glasses..you will also find getting enough room to swing the hammer may be a problem..was when I put them in the 49er...

[Andydodge]

Original mopar style welch/freeze plugs are flat, not concave, use a small cold chisel or old screw driver to remove the plugs, clean out the crud thats behind them in the block and reinstall 1 &5/8" (from memory)size plugs....clean the plug "seat" in the block, use a little gasket cement/goo around the seat, then place the new plug in/on the seat and hit firmly with a hammer & brass drift or large bolt, say 7/16" diameter to flatten out the plug in the centre causing it to expand & lock into its seat in the block..........try and find brass plugs, they don't rust out......andyd

[Andydodge]

Scott........the "ease" of replacing the plugs is inversely related to the plugs location.....lol........and where they are and whether you can get easy access to them, the plugs aren't so much the problem but its the dissy, starter, generator, oil filter etc that can be in the way which make replacing the plugs such a fun filled time, measure them, am pretty sure they are 1 &5/8" and have the new ones on hand b4 starting this most enjoyable pastime........lol.......btw don't suppose you wanna fly over to Australia to help me remove the water tube in a 230 block I have?........lol..............andyd

[Plymouthy Adams]

The plugs are concave and as such when dimpled, the metal goes flatter in the center and thus rolls (expands) the outer edges to seal against the block..I do recommend Pernatex #2 when istalling these...but trust me, they are not flat discs...

[Scott1953]

So a standard 1 5/8" plug will work right? I do not need to get plugs for a 230 dodge?

[Kustom52Mopar]

First off, welcome Scott and congrats on your Mopar. I hope you don't mind if I pirate your thread a little, I've been thinking of tackling this myself.

Some mentioned the piles of build up you'll find but has anybody used CLR to break that stuff down? Cause isn't alot of it, among other deposits, Calcium, Lime and Rust?? And would a pressure washer help knock some of it loose or am I going to far here??

I will also concur that these freeze plugs are fairly easy to install but there are some obsticals in the way.

[Andydodge]

I called the plugs "flat" as compared to those used from the 1960's onwards in "modern" cars.......but they do have curvature to them, as for a pressure washer, if you can get it angled in towards the open hole then it should help, tho' it might make it even messier......lol......andyd

[Don Coatney]

So a standard 1 5/8" plug will work right? I do not need to get plugs for a 230 dodge?

Get the kind that look like this. Not the ones that look like a bowl with a lip on the side.

[Scott1953]

Some mentioned the piles of build up you'll find but has anybody used CLR to break that stuff down? Cause isn't alot of it, among other deposits, Calcium, Lime and Rust?? And would a pressure washer help knock some of it loose or am I going to far here??

Well, I'm pretty new, but judging by the looks of the distrubution tube and what i pulled out with it, I think that the majority of contaminant in my system is going to be more like mud and dirt as opposed to scale and build up.

Thanks again for all the help.

Don,

Great picture, just looking at that, I think that I understand how they go in and stay in. There must be a small lip that the plug goes past and then the plug expands when hit and it catches on the inside of the lip. Right?

Scott