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Project 48 build thread


falconvan

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It'll have locking handles when Im done because the factory locks wont work with the bear claw latches.

What kind of locking handles are you going to use? Are they from another make/model, or were you planning on modifying the stock handles?

Just curious, as I just went through much effort coming to a "locking" solution with the bear claw latches on my P15.

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As far as the handles, there's serveral different styles of reproduction handles on Ebay that lock. I havent picked a specific one yet but the late 30's Ford ones look pretty good. I just have to figure out how to make the handle fit the Plymouth trim plate that it mounts to. What kind of locking system did you end up going with?

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As far as the handles, there's serveral different styles of reproduction handles on Ebay that lock. I havent picked a specific one yet but the late 30's Ford ones look pretty good. I just have to figure out how to make the handle fit the Plymouth trim plate that it mounts to. What kind of locking system did you end up going with?

It was a challenge, but I think it worked out well.

First of all, if it was my choice, I would have never removed the factory door latches and locks. The ones used on the P15 were ahead of their time and perfectly adequate. And I will never again purchase a vehicle with any portion of the door latch/lock mechanism modified, shaved, or removed.

However, the previous owner had the bear claw latches installed and the outside door lock cylinders removed and a remote door lock system installed, so I had to work with the hand that had been dealt to me, so to speak.

I originally considered re-installing the outside door lock cylinders, since the latches installed on my car do have a provision for locking. I decided against that after I determined that it would have been far too difficult to fabricate the inside linkage necessary to connect the lock cylinder with the latch. Besides that, I still could not devise a method to lock/unlock from the inside using the factory door handles.

Also, the existing remote door lock system was unreliable. After locking myself out of the car, and having to get in by removing the back seat through the trunk I decided on the following: (a) remove and replace the existing remote entry system with one that was reliable; (B) devise a method for manually locking/unlocking the doors from the inside; and © fabricating an emergency door lock release system, in case of lock-out.

First I removed the old remote entry system and replaced it with a new setup from Electric-Life. The plungers in this system were much more robust and reliable, so this restored my confidence.

Next, I fabricated a manual lock/unlock button setup, which looks very much like a typical factory setup with the door lock buttons coming up through the window garnish moldings on either side, very similar to the rear door locking setup on four-door P15s.

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It was kind of scary drilling holes into the factory garnish moldings, but after much measuring and summoning up of courage I did the deed. I think it came out OK. Another benefit of the door lock buttons is that when you pull up/push down on either one it also unlocks/locks the other door in unison.

Lastly, I fabricated an emergency-release cable which goes through the passenger side door and exits adjacent to the upper door hinge and comes out in the front wheel well. It utilizes a locking cylinder with a key which helps with my peace of mind (I'm no fan of the emergency release cables which merely terminate somewhere under the car and would allow anyone who knows about it to walk up and reach under and unlock the door).

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To operate, you insert the key, turn it a quarter turn, and remove the entire cylinder, which is attached to the release cable, and pull on it. After you have unlocked the door, you replace the cylinder in its holder and lock it back into place.

Let me know if you have any questions.

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That's a really nice job, Kbuhagiar. If my latches had been good i'd have stayed with them but they were pretty much junk. I'm hoping these locking handles work out. If not, you've got a good looking solution. Where did you source the little lock with the removeable cylinder?

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That's a really nice job, Kbuhagiar. If my latches had been good i'd have stayed with them but they were pretty much junk. I'm hoping these locking handles work out. If not, you've got a good looking solution. Where did you source the little lock with the removeable cylinder?

I found it on Ebay - I got mine for a BIN price of $39.95 with free shipping.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LOCKING-SHAVED-DOOR-POPPER-KIT-EMERGENCY-CABLE-RELEASE-/190566220329?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2c5ea1c229

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  • 2 weeks later...

I finally got the passenger door finished today; there were a lot of hours in this door. Got all the welds ground and some filler along the bottom, got all the old door gasket off and coated the inside of the door with a rust inhibitor. Next is the drivers door which is not as bad. the bottom fits good so no work there. I got the latch installed and have a small repair to make in the front corner.

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  • 2 weeks later...
morning all,any body who made there floor bracing ,do you have any measurements you can share? pics of where body mounts are mine are gone.

On my 48 I was lucky and had a donor car with a good floor. I took the whole floor with the braces out in one piece and transplanted it into this car. Note of interest; the 4 dr sedan and two door coupe floors were identical from 46-48. Could possibly be on earlier cars, too.

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  • 1 month later...

Got some time in on this one the last few days. I did the last bit of patching on the drivers door along with cutting out the braces so I can work on the one piece windows. I also picked up this for a front seat. I need to make some stands but it's in way better shape that the original. The frame on the original is so rusted Im afraid it would disintegrate if I had it blasted. Kyle is working on wrapping up the deck lid; it's been a ton of work to get it right but it's getting closer.

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Thanks, all. As far as the patch, I used my MIG on a #2 setting. The seat came from a late 60's Chevy II. It had all the springs redone and been recovered at some point so it feels really good; just need to reupholster to match the interior when I decide on material/color. I'm leaning toward a traditional hot rod diamond tuck red and white scheme.

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  • 2 months later...

Thanks for the high rating, all!

I guess it's time to get back to the 48; she's been feeling neglected. Here's where I left off last time. My next step is to get the vent window eliminator kit and the power windows installed. I bought a kit from Hagan to do the vent widows. Basically it's just four pieces of track with 4 pins and some misc hardware. You could probably built one out of Home Depot parts and do just as well. Also, I did not follow Hagan's directions to a T. They called for replacing the rear track but it was the same dimensions as the original so I just used the factory rear track. Didnt see much sense in making more work than necessary.

In a nutshell, you cut out a window pattern from thin plywood ( I used some leftover underlayment), then cut out another piece 1/4" longer as a locator for the front track, use a pin to secure the top of the front track, and adjustable bracket for the bottom, and finally weld in a small filler piece. It took about 4 hours to get it all lined up and welded; and the plywood widow mock up slides nicely up and down in it. Next step will be to install the power window on this side and then do it all again on the other side.

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Last few.... feels good to be back on this one. We had a great holiday today; 60 degrees and sunny so I took the 49 out for a while this morning. I think its dialed in pretty good; it drives out really nice for a 63 year old beater.

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Tell me us more about the vent window delete. Are we looking at window channel installed in the forward part of the door in the 2nd pic? Does the 4th pic show components of a kit or is that your assembly of parts neatly packaged?

I wanna do that!

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I have seen a few that have omitted the vent window, but for me it creates wind buffeting when the glass is down. My 2001 cheby does that. When they first came out with the omitted vent (they saved $15.00 per door was the reason for doing that) I hated them for the way the wind buffiting it created. Give me the old vents!!:D

Just my opinion, they do look cool omitted though.

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Tell me us more about the vent window delete. Are we looking at window channel installed in the forward part of the door in the 2nd pic? Does the 4th pic show components of a kit or is that your assembly of parts neatly packaged?

I wanna do that!

Yeah, the first pic is of the stock rear glass channel. The next ones are of the front channel from the kit and the last one is of the kit itself. It's made by Hagan and I think it was around $120; I bought it a year ago and cant remember exactly. Their instructions are pretty good but I had to build an adjustable bracket for the bottom of the front channel to make it work right; plus I couldn't see the reasoning for replacing the back channel when it was in good shape and the same dimentions as the one from the kit. It's hard to get pictures inside the door; I wish I could have got some better ones.

I kind of like the vent windows, too; but it's going to be my wife's car so i'm letting her make some of the calls. She liked the full window idea.

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I have seen a few that have omitted the vent window, but for me it creates wind buffeting when the glass is down. My 2001 cheby does that. When they first came out with the omitted vent (they saved $15.00 per door was the reason for doing that) I hated them for the way the wind buffiting it created. Give me the old vents!!:D

Just my opinion, they do look cool omitted though.

Good observation, I never thought about that. I sure like the look, which is my thing, but I also like driving with the windows open.

Anyone know if the cowl vent has any affect on this issue?

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I have a two friends with 58/59 Chevy pick ups with the one piece glass and I was surprised at the quietness of the trucks with the windows down,no buffeting of any kind and no air coming into the cab with the windows down. My 2003 Chevy Cavalier with one piece windows buffets like crazy with the windows down.

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