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since the speedometer in my 1-fa doesn't work, i decided to take it apart to see why. i used a dremel cut-off wheel to remove the four bushings that keep the bezel attached to the body, through which the dash mounting screws go.

after getting the speedo mostly apart, i could see what the problem was. the shaft that the needle (pointer) rides on was broken where it passes through a bracket, just below where the return spring is attached. that looks to be a difficult to fix issue, with replacement of that needle assembly the only real solution, other than doing nothing, and living with it (i did get the odometer to work, so at least i can track mileage). even though the speedo has the 2-speed adapter, i believe it's the same speedo as for the other b-trucks. i might even try to solder the shaft back together, since it doesn't work as is, but that probably wouldn't last very long.

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  • 3 years later...

bringing up an old thread, to bring closure to it.

i was given a box of assorted pilothouse parts from a local guy, and it happened to have a speedometer in it. the "box" speedo was rusted, and the face looks perhaps like a powerwagon, as the numbers are a different font. but, the guts more or less looked the same.

i took it apart, and got the needle off without damaging the spring/shaft assembly. then i took the speedo out of my truck, and took it apart, initially thinking i'd just switch a few parts with the "spare". no such luck. either the 2-speed speedometer is different than the small trucks, or the box speedo really was for a powerwagon, and is different. the wick on the 2-spd was @ 12:00, while the other was @ 4:00, so the slot in the shell/bucket was in a different place. also, the attachment screws at the back were farther apart on the 2-spd. solved the slot location issue with a sabre-saw and a dremel, and used a drill-press to put in a new attaching screw hole.

ultimately, i used the innards of the box speedo, after cleaning them and lubing with graphite, with the gauge face and needle from my truck, and the original bucket. i also reset the mileage on the numbers to reflect what mine had been, instead of what the donor had.

took it for a ride this afternoon, and it works. in fact, it works in both high and low range. it's the first time i've had the indicator working since i've owned the truck, although i did have the odometer working before. kind of nice to not have to guess how slow i'm going.

wally

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  • 8 years later...
On 3/25/2008 at 4:43 AM, Merle Coggins said:

Wally,

I may have a spare speedo from a B2C. I don't remember it's condition at this moment. I can check it out tonite. Send me a PM or email at luv2wingit@sbcglobal.net if you need it.

Merle

Merle you still have that speedometer? Or maybe you or someone would know.... my rust bucket “GA” the needle doesn’t move by turning the back of the speedometer where the cable inserts.  The spring is fine for the needle to bounce 

 

Is the inner magnetic bar supposed to rotate separate from the outer metal “housing” section? 
EA1D1FB8-985E-4A72-A72A-EC47CBC23F11.jpeg.7ab9cf481d5687d6b7af2e71a3f4140e.jpeg
 

the silver “cup”( To the right) is aluminum or something and the part that turns the needle. 
 

kinda confusing I know, hope it makes sense 

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You're not spinning it fast enough. Use a broken piece of speedo cable in a drill (in reverse) to spin up the speedo.

No, the bar magnet should not move separate of the drive.

The bar magnet creates a magnetic field that moves the speed cup. :)

 

 

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Weird, I am able to spin the one from “Rob” by hand and make it move.

 


The ends of the bar are magnetic....I guess  just not grabbing the cup?

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Magnets don't touch the cup.

Might be bad magnets?

Did you have the drill in reverse?

Put the drill in the speedo you can make move by hand and see how fast it reads.

My 12 volt Dewalt with a fresh battery makes a speedo spin at 45 mph.

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Yeah it was in reverse  ?

For giggles, I may try and re-magnetize the magnet..... have you had success pulling the brass colored cap off the back? 
9760BF67-0A47-49BB-B09C-573002048F8E.jpeg.ec8b18e479b01aca4f7394a2fc2f4cec.jpeg

 

hey Wally, sorry to hijack your thread so badly 

but the title fit ?

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1 hour ago, B1B Keven said:

Oopps, ya Wally, sorry.

 

No, I've never tried. Couldn't think of a way to reassemble it.

 

I have a bunch of that style drive units if you need one.

I may take you up on that if I can’t get this one to work but, I can’t have you bailing me out every time ?

 

So on the small pointer “rebound spring” what position should it be in? I have it wound one full turn after it was “relaxed” and resting on the “cup stop”

 

 

thanks Wally!! ?

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15 hours ago, Brent B3B said:

Yeah it was in reverse  ?

For giggles, I may try and re-magnetize the magnet..... have you had success pulling the brass colored cap off the back? 
9760BF67-0A47-49BB-B09C-573002048F8E.jpeg.ec8b18e479b01aca4f7394a2fc2f4cec.jpeg

 

hey Wally, sorry to hijack your thread so badly 

but the title fit ?

 

look at you all fancy with your pictures!

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On 6/23/2020 at 6:23 PM, B1B Keven said:

Set it so the needle just barely rests at zero.

You may have it wound too tight.


LOL dude! Did you just say my spring is wound to tight? 

yep, that was it. ?

the speedometer was not working at all for this truck, I’ll add another check mark in the “working again column” 

thanks! 

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Yes, yes I did. :)

Glad to help.

Now take a known accurate speedo and spin it up (wide open and fresh battery) with your cordless.

Make a note of the speed. Adjust the next speedo's to that speed tested the same way. Bob's your uncle.

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Question, how do you re-assemble the front cover? I need to get mine apart, but concerned about re assembling it. There is a foam or paper piece hanging inside the gauge i want to fix up. 
 

F5091859-A33E-42AD-B624-A5A1895B091D.jpeg

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Tooljunkie, is that a different cab (51 or 52) than your profile shows (49)?

 

as a side note, I drilled out the eyelets on mine, stepping the bit size up to 1/4. never touched the chrome bezel ?

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6 hours ago, Brent B3B said:

Tooljunkie, is that a different cab (51 or 52) than your profile shows (49)?

 

as a side note, I drilled out the eyelets on mine, stepping the bit size up to 1/4. never touched the chrome bezel ?

Bought it as a 49, but tag in drivers door jamb states is a 51. So hot in my quonset, cant work on it. 
i have some brass rod i will turn in my lathe to make the grommets. 

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Nice to see DCM offers the gaskets, I made mine. First truck I had some round rubber spline for window screens, is a little fatter then original.

When I installed the speedometer in the dash and snugged it down, broke the glass  :(

The paper gasket is easy enough to make.

 

Second speedo, the rubber was good enough to re-use. I think a guy could go to the local parts store and match up the diameter with a O-ring, possibly need 2 and put it together with 2 pieces ... just a rubber cushion to protect the glass.

You can do it yourself, or spend a couple bucks and get the parts made for it.

 

fwiw, I did not bother to replace the brass rivets, The 3 pieces speedo, glass, bezel, fit together snug enough wile installing in the dash. Now if I want to take it apart again for cleaning, just remove the mounting screws. Maybe I am just lazy and some day will rivet it back together ... we will see.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I also have run without the rivets for years, no problem. For the rubber, I am ordering from the O Ring store ( https://www.theoringstore.com/store/index.php?main_page=shopping_cart ) put -247 in the search window to get what i believe are the proper size. I am ordering 10 because they are 35 cents and shipping and handling is like $7, so if anyone wants my extras (for free) hit me up.

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On 3/21/2008 at 2:43 PM, wallytoo said:

 

after getting the speedo mostly apart, i could see what the problem was. the shaft that the needle (pointer) rides on was broken where it passes through a bracket, just below where the return spring is attached.

 

That's called the "speed cup shaft". Once broken there is no fix. You need/have to replace the speed cup.

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