Kick Panel Pattern for 46 to 48 Mopars??

[55 Fargo]

Does anyone happen to have, or have an idea how I can make a pattern of my kick panel area. I do not have an old set to trace, does anyone have a pattern I could beg/borrow, that way I could trace onto the cardboard I want use, and make a pair of kick panels................Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

I doubt that a pattern from a P15 or D24 would do you any good. Think the Chrysler body is different size. Making a pattern isn't too hard. Either use a piece of large paper and tape it up to the kick panel area, then trim it off. That will give you a basic pattern to start working with. Then use either cardboard or construction paper to make another one off that. Then fit and trim as necessary. Once you have that pattern done, you can cut a good one with heavier board.

[BobT-47P15]

Evidently the kick panels for the Chrysler ARE a bit different than the

46-48 Plymouth (can't say about the Dodge).

See previous post for pics of Plym items.

Pic from ebay ad of seller:

Same seller also makes a P15 trunk divider.

[55 Fargo]

Sure look like they would fit, a lot of the body design was the same for PDCD..................Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Bob,

I've seen those on ebay before too for the P15. However, they look just like the Chrysler ones you posted. The Chrysler panels are probably a little larger.

That said, neither one of those will fit the P15 or Chrysler if you have the dual heater setup. They need a cutout for the heat duct to go behind the panel, and an indented area on the front edge for the metal heat duct face to attach to. When I made my new kick panels I did have the benefit of using my old original ones as a pattern. My coupe has the dual heaters and had those extra cutouts.

Fred, I still don't think the P15 panels are the same size. However, if you want to wait awhile (maybe until it gets warm), I'll dig my pattern out. Then make a paper one and mail it to you. Like I said, I have the pattern someplace, don't know exactly where I stashed it right now.

[55 Fargo]

Hi Norm, I also have the dual heater ducts, but they are in very dirty tattered condititon, not going to try and re-uset them, so I will custom make some kick panels. I do know what you mean by the indented area, so hopefully I can make panels to fit somehow.

[James_Douglas]

Fred,

I have my original 1947 Desoto Suburban kick panels. This is a car with duel heaters.

I am quite busy until next week, but if you can wait, I will dig them out and make a pattern of them.

James

[55 Fargo]

James, I thank you very much sir, hope you get some type of redress on your OD Trans dilemna. Please keep us posted on your negotiaitons with George, hopefully he will come through for you, and you both wind up on the winning side, the best formula for any business is, Win/Win..............Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

The DeSoto panels should be a better fit than the P15. As for your heat ducts. Mine were in good shape but also very dirty. I washed mine, let them dry good, then painted them and they turned out ok. You may be able to do the same with yours since the kick panel hides them anyway. You could also use the fiberglass on them like you plan to do on the glove box. Just don't add any to the edge where the metal frame goes. You only have enough room there for the the duct and kick panel to slide into the frame together. If you build it up too much, it won't slide in there.

[James_Douglas]

Fred,

If you do not hear from me by the end of next week hunt me down so I don't forget...

James

[Ed Griffin]

James, if possible could you make two set's and send me one too? I too have the double heaters but my kick panels are chewed up on the ends so badly I can not trace them. If it is too much trouble I can try the guesstimation as intended but if a set were available it would save a lot of guessing. Thank you, Ed Griffin

[55 Fargo]

Norm, will post a pic later of the heater ducts, then get your opinion if they can be repaired or not. Now does the kick panel go over these, I thought these were the kick panels..........Fred

[55 Fargo]

Sounds like a plan James..........Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

Yes, the kick panel goes over the heat duct, so the only part you see is the opening where the heat comes out. Then the metal bezel goes over the heat duct opening and the kick panel. There is a slot in the bezel for both to fit into. Then it's attached to both with small sheet metal screws. Actually, you should be able to hook up your heater ducts without the kick panels for now. I ran with mine that way for awhile before I made the kick panels. The heat duct is held onto the heater by sheet metal screws too.

Supposed to warm up in the next couple of days. Will take a picture of mine (finished) and email it to you. That way you can see how they are supposed to look when installed.

[BobT-47P15]

This 47 Chrysler has the heat duct panels....

[55 Fargo]

That'd be them Bob, anything for sale on this car, or is it somebodys baby...............Fred

[55 Fargo]

Norm as you can see, these heater ducts are ffffffeeeeedddddd, don't think I will try and rescue these. I hope I can make kick panels without these heater ducts in place first. Glovebox is back in now, okay for the timebeing, will replace maybe later..........Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Guess I'll have to agree with you Fred, those ducts are beyond saving. At least you have enough left to make a pattern for new ones though.

Bob's picture shows how they should look after installing the ducts and kick panels.

There is a problem with making flat kick panels, then later trying to install heat ducts behind them. If made flat, they won't be tall enough after installing the heat ducts because they have to bow out around the ducts. Could be at least about an inch short on top and bottom combined. I'd suggest concentrating on making new ducts first, then making the kick panels to fit over them like they are supposed to be. Otherwise, you'll have to make new kick panels after installing the new ducts.

What you might be able to do is make them so they fit in the metal bezel and just put the bezel on without the ducts, if you want to do the panels first.

P.S. Just looked at Bob's pictures again. Actually, those panels are too short. The panel should be tight up against the bottom of the dash and against the floor. Looks like there is about an inch gap between the dash and panel in Bob's picture.

[BobT-47P15]

Fred, those ducts in the pictures are in this car.......it could be bought

in it's entirity, but too good to sell parts.

Odometer says car has 49,000 miles on it. Was bought quite a few years

ago at an estate auction when a Chrysler/Plymouth dealer died.

[B-Watson]

Fred' date='

I doubt that a pattern from a P15 or D24 would do you any good. Think the Chrysler body is different size. Making a pattern isn't too hard. Either use a piece of large paper and tape it up to the kick panel area, then trim it off. That will give you a basic pattern to start working with. Then use either cardboard or construction paper to make another one off that. Then fit and trim as necessary. Once you have that pattern done, you can cut a good one with heavier board.[/quote']

Yes, the 1941-48 Dodge-DeSoto-Chrysler body is larger than the 1940-48 Plymouth body - it is longer between the front cowl and the rear seat and wider between the door pillars. The 1940 Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler used the Plymouth body with the Dodge having a longer hood and the DeSoto-Chrysler having an addtional 3" added in the rear seat area. On the 4-door sedans the rear quarter windows are longer on the S-C than on the P-D models.

It was the first time since the Airflow that Chrysler had two completely different bodies in production, but the styling was such that many thought the bodies were all the same.

Bill

Vancouver, BC

[55 Fargo]

Hi Norm, my car was originally a Royal, 1 heater, no dual air intake, with the fancy fresh air intake like on Windsors. I do have that other fresh air intake on my parts car, I do only have on heater in my car. Not sure if my car came equipped with the kick panle heater ducts or not.

Can I just eliminate them altogether, and just have kick panel covers, or is the body desgned to have the heater ducts, as to make it difficult to make flat kick panels.

Maybe I can still locate some decent heater ducts, but don't think I will bother with dual heaters..........Fred

[Norm's Coupe]

Don't see why you can't eliminate the heater duct. Heater will still work, and you could then just have flat kick panels. You wouldn't use the vent bezel in the kick panel then. The only problem you may have is the direction of the heat coming out of the vent. With the dual type heaters the air is directed off to the side to go through the panel ducts. So.....the only problem would be is that the heat won't be directed back to the passengers, it will go to the side and bounce off the kick panels.

[BobT-47P15]

The warm air comes out of that box looking part on the right side of my

heater. That flap on the bottom opens up a ways to let the air go up

some, or can direct it more to the floor. Then there is an opening for

the defrost to which you connect the two hoses back beside the

kick panel. Don't need any ducts for this style. Air just comes into the top

of the heater and passes over the core, then is blown out.

[Norm's Coupe]

Fred,

Bob is right. I forgot about the flap. Also, inside the heater duct is another flap that can be opened and closed, now that Bob brings it up.

Now that Bob brought it up. The real purpose of the kick panel dual heater ducts is to better distribute air into the passenger compartment by running the heat and fresh air through the panel ducts. When the whole system is installed it also allows just fresh air to be blown in from the cowl vent.

If I remember right, there is also a place to hook a cable to the internal flapper to operate the flapper from the dash. If done that way you can control the amount of heat going to the defroster or out the heat vent from the knob on the dash.

[55 Fargo]

Thats correct Norm and Bob, the flapper on my heater, is operated from a knob on the dash, it allows me to use defrost or direct the heat to the floor.

The heat thing is not a real huge concern, as the car will be driven in mostly warm weather, occassionally in spring and fall, the heater will be used, 1 heater is adequate for the job. The fresh air idea through the heater ducts, is a good idea, that interests me.

My car was nothing more tha a shell, and very much beat-up when I drug her home. It should never have been a project car, I bought it in 1988, brought her home in 2005, I did not even like the car for many years, at least not the look of it. But I love these cars now, funny how we change. The car is still a beater, not sure if I should chase purism or not, my engine is not an OEM, it is a flattie but from a Canuck dodge, same thing with the trans, it is a dry clutch 3 spd, not a fluid drive semi-auto.

I want to convert to disc brakes, run dual exhaust/carbs, a mild resto-custom, I may even convert to 12 volt someday.

So am I going down the right road with this, or should I go to a purer form, very hard when you start with a rough specimen like I did.

This was done to save money, but it has already cost me upwards of $2500 for parts,tools, and parts car. I am thinking of getting another parts car a 48 Windsor sedan, but the pot metal, bumpers and lot of other items are in great shape,so maybe another $100 for that.

Any opinions respected