knighthawk Posted December 31, 2007 Report Posted December 31, 2007 I know there's been alot of disscussion about the fuel gauge and sender, BUT,....where did you guys get your replacement sender for the original gauge ? This car did not come with a sender in it . J C Whitney has one for Chrysler and Fords, says it for 78 to 10 ohms. Does that mean it will work ?..............thanks .....Larry Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 31, 2007 Report Posted December 31, 2007 Larry, it will work if you have a 1 wire fuel gauge, it will also work with 6 voltsystems, but if you have a 2 wire gauge it will not work and you will have to spend the $80 for one from roberts or Bernbaums..................Fred Quote
knighthawk Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Posted December 31, 2007 If I remember from all the posts I read, my "48 Dodge originally had the two wire system (?), also somebody else re-wired theirs to a 1 wire ? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 31, 2007 Report Posted December 31, 2007 Larry...I have a D24 cluster here with a a single wire gas guage installed..now could this actually be from say a first series 49? I have three other clusters and they all have the two wire..time to pull the book out again..EXCEPT my books were all printed in 1947..and original to the 47 Town Sedan I bought. anyone here have a book dated 49? Quote
knighthawk Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Posted December 31, 2007 first... a reminder....this is the junk car which I chopped, it has NO exsisting wiring, and will be converted to 12 volts. Now, the gauge has two terminals on itm marked : GA and SW................ to me , that just means , an in (sw) and an out to the sender ????? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 31, 2007 Report Posted December 31, 2007 Shel kinda confirms the later production autos have a single wire..my newest old Dodge is a 47...the single wire guage is one I bought at a swap meet just to have as spare.. Quote
knighthawk Posted December 31, 2007 Author Report Posted December 31, 2007 now that's what I wanted to hear ! Now, the pickup line(fuel) was bad , took it out and closed the hole. I'm thinking of putting in a new suction line( maybe 3/8 line to feed the 318 ) plus a return line ( 1/4 ? ) in the right side ( top) of the tank,, anything I need to know before I do this ? Like what kind of filter to put in ?.or not to put in ?............no worries on the exploding tank, as it is cut about in half (another story) Quote
55 Fargo Posted December 31, 2007 Report Posted December 31, 2007 Okay, so if there are 3 terminals on the back of the gauge it is a 2 wire system, and if there are only 2 terminals on the back of the gas gauge it is a 1 wire system, is this the idea. I have 3 terminals on the back of my gas gauge, one is for power, the other 2 are for the gas gauge correct..............Fred Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted December 31, 2007 Report Posted December 31, 2007 Bingo.......... we have a winner...yes Fred that is the way it works..the guage and sender has to be matching pair..the tanks sender in this instace (2 wire) is approx 30 ohms (I have read 5 units and found they average between 28-32 ohms) Quote
knighthawk Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Posted January 1, 2008 OK , next question....what are my options for the water temp gauge ? I have no gauge, and it's hard tellin which ( or where )the sender is in the 318????????...... Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 1, 2008 Report Posted January 1, 2008 The 318 should be forward and near the thermostat..it is very small with a single post sticking up...if you choose to use the stock guage..grafting on a new tube of sufficient length will be necessary as will be putting the correct adapter in the 318 block so to accept the thermo-bulb. be sure to keep the nut on the bulb end when you freese the bulb and cut the tube near the guage.....once grafted, you can take a good thermoter and calibrate the guage...Todd F. has a super article on this look in the archives. Quote
knighthawk Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Posted January 1, 2008 so Tim, what your' sayin, is even if I get the stock or original temp gauge, it will be too short or have the wrong end on it ?.......................HAPPY NEW YEAR.and thanks again................Larry Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 1, 2008 Report Posted January 1, 2008 Larry, the stock capillary tube, will be too short, get an after market gauge, and have someone, or do it yourself, you need to graft the tube and bulb from the aftermarket gauge to the stock gauge. If it is a successful transplant, you then calibrate gauge, using hot water and install. Tod Fitch, explains in detail how to do this in his Website, at least I think it is him who is experienced with this procedure.........Fred ps Happy New 2008 Quote
knighthawk Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Posted January 1, 2008 Is there any other option? Can I get a temp gauge that will in the square hole......................and look decent? Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 1, 2008 Report Posted January 1, 2008 Larry..as I stated and Fred affirmed..the NOS sender is very short..it set real close to the firewall. The 318 sender if all te way forward on the engine, I have this same situation with the 383 as it is all the way forward also..I will be splicing one in..I recommend that when you get a replacement for a donor to find one that is still wire wrapped..reason..you can cut a samll section of the spiral out..it will thread into the remaing wrap..when you fuse the cap[alliary..it will then twist back over the splice for protection against kink and undue stress. The sender on the small block is about 1 inch tall..will have a threaded 10/32 size brass post and uses a 9/16 wrench to remove and install. Quote
55 Fargo Posted January 1, 2008 Report Posted January 1, 2008 I think you could go with an aftermarket gauge and unit, but finding one to fit into the cluster, don't think so. If you are going with a 318, this is a resto-rod, maybe go with custom aftermarket gauges perhaps. I currently have a temporary aftermarket gauge in my car, but will retrun to OEM, just as soon as I find a suitable candidate. Quote
knighthawk Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Posted January 1, 2008 O K , just thought I'd try to cover all options here, .......thanks guys Quote
windsor8 Posted January 1, 2008 Report Posted January 1, 2008 I successfully change my stock water temp gauge to an electric gauge. I used a inexpensive gauge from Meijers, made by Sunpro, the same as J.C.W. sells. I used the stock face and switched out the guts. Put in back in the original gauge cluster. I tried to do the same with the fuel gauge from J.C.W. but messed it up. I'll try again. My original sending unit had only one wire. Quote
knighthawk Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Posted January 1, 2008 I really like that idea too, but I don't have an original gauge to try it with....anyone out there got a non working gauge I could try it with? Quote
knighthawk Posted January 2, 2008 Author Report Posted January 2, 2008 any sugestions as to where I can get a temp gauge (not working) with a good face ? Quote
knighthawk Posted January 2, 2008 Author Report Posted January 2, 2008 I guess I got time, as I got the whole car to build yet.Would be easier to install now thou, as long as the dash is apart. Just like to have a plan...........although , as we know, all plans tend tp change.......thanks Quote
knighthawk Posted January 2, 2008 Author Report Posted January 2, 2008 1948 Dodge,.......looks just like the thumbnail in post # 30 Quote
toddbracik Posted January 2, 2008 Report Posted January 2, 2008 I might have an extra if he doesnt. Todd Bracik. Quote
knighthawk Posted January 2, 2008 Author Report Posted January 2, 2008 between 'shel' and 'todd' , I may have one, need to wait a couple days to find out for sure......... In the mean time................thanks again , guys ! Quote
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