pflaming Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 A friend who is restoring a BIB like mine sent me this information. I share it with you. I copied it to a word document. Happy Moparing! Paragraph 1. a. Remove the driveshaft at the rear u-joint pinion yoke. Band the loose u-joint caps with electrical tape to keep them in place. DO NOT let the caps fall off, you could loose the needle bearing inside. Mark the caps on the cap itself and on the yoke so the u-joint will be placed back in same position. b. Remove driveshaft at transmission by unbolting the flange at the emergency brake drum. Mark its position on the flange and the brake drum as previous step for same reasons. c. Unbolt the transmission from the bell housing, slide the trans back out of the clutch assembly, and lower to ground. This leaves the engine itself alone in the vehicle to be removed as a single unit, when the access is gained by floorboard removal, hood removal, fan removal, and radiator removal essentially in that sequence as previously noted in a preceding message today. d. If there is any question of quality in the condition of the transmission.....take it to a qualified source to have it appraised and/or repaired. That can be done by an outside source, while you progress with your taking apart the rest of the vehicle as you intend. e. Reassembly should be easy if things are marked, you have a clear picture of what is going on, and your methods and knowledge are thorough; if you have doubts about your capacity, engage a good helper with sound mechanical knowledge and/or experience. The extent of your plans is far more detailed than a novice should undertake alone; I say this because I don't know your mechanical background......the physical element is a total difference from a textbook or classroom setting. I personally lack in technical expertise, say rebuilding an engine internally; but I know and have hands-on credibility from professional experience in removal and replacement of parts and components.....as in the case of installing my 9-inch Ford rear-end from a car into a different make pickup. In the case of my engine and transmission, I have driven it in its original chassis; that gave me reason to know it ran well, and saw no reason to go internally on either component.....engine or transmission.....only you can evaluate your situation, and determine how deep into mechanical reconditioning in terms of time and money. Paragraph 2. f. A statement on transmission condition is in item "d" above. g. Paint the transmission at any time before reassembly into the vehicle is planned; either a spray can, brush, professional shop depending on your preference level. h. The 3-speed is synchronized only between 2 and 3 for up or down shifts, NOT low gear. j. Stay with the Dodge for simplicity and convenience; transplanting a foreign unit from a Chev or ? can be time consuming and expensive; any modification can make a good can of worms, especially when odd parts are adapted to fit. My rear end transplant was a different kind of undertaking and follows the simplicity I recommend. Paragraph 3. k. Old wiring harness.....gut it; replace it with an aftermarket assembly like Painless wiring....anything good and complete from an easily found supplier; convert to 12 volt in the process. Your 6 volt starter is strong enough to hold limited cranking from a 12 volt supply.....or look for a starter off a flathead 6 like in a 57-59 car (the flathead was 12v then) but discontinued in domestic production in 1960. I had my old starter converted to 12v guts by a local auto electric shop for about $100 about 5 years ago. Old wiring systems probably can be salvaged, but I chose a new system for my own. And one last item.....brakes, not covered. Ford brakes on the rear-end I installed are far superior to the OEM Dodge pu. The Dodge emergency brake is on the tail of the transmission, so no worry about connecting it; my rear brakes are updated with new Ford parts, which are more readily available for aging items. The front will be converted using a combination of GM and Chrysler parts in an available marketed kit with instructions. It will summarily have the same wheel lug pattern as the original Dodge hubs front and back; in the 50s, 60s, and early 70s the 5 lug on 4.5 circle was common to Dodge 1/2T, mopar cars, and many Ford cars. The biggest job here is the plumbing of additional brake lines, portioning valves....since the system on my pu has a dual reservoir from a later Chrysler car for update safety reasons over the old single reservoir on the 51 pu. I feel I am within bounds of my capability and resource to accomplish this feat. You can make this project easy and fun, or cumbersome and costly, depending on your determination level and the detail you want to achieve. My advice is keeping it simple within the boundaries of my expertise, pocket book, and game plan. My objective is to make a retro-hotrod, mechanically sound in the style and mode available to us in the 50s. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldmopar Posted December 31, 2007 Report Share Posted December 31, 2007 What is he using for the engine and transmission ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2008 We are both using the stock 218 cu, inline six and the standard three speed tranny. We both have extra four speeds but do not need the weight nor the low speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bob_Koch Posted January 1, 2008 Report Share Posted January 1, 2008 Just "discovered" the town of Reedley last week. I have family in Clovis and we took a day trip to your town. Nice place. Good to know there's a pilot-house truckee there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2008 Bob, next time you come down, call, we'll do lunch. My friend put a 61 -72 Ford Country Squire Station Wagon: ratio 3.0:1; brakes 11 x 2.50. This axel bolts in without modification. It should cruise @ 70 mph @ 2500 rpm. Use 15’ 31050 tires on the rear. I am going to do the same. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Plymouthy Adams Posted January 1, 2008 Report Share Posted January 1, 2008 What is he using for the engine and transmission ? as it is a restoration and by looking at all the gutted/replaced and other manufactured parts in this RESTORATION it could only be anyones guess to power plant.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pflaming Posted January 1, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 1, 2008 Not a true restoration!! The last post is accurate; we are only going for street worthy without destroying the vintage truck. If it won't bolt on, it won't go on. I admire those of you who have the ability, time and money to RESTORE!, but do understand that some of us just want a dependable old truck something like we drove to high school. My brother and I drove a '38 3/4 T Chevy in Western Nebraska. It did NOT have: windshield wipers, heater, glass window on the driver's side, complete floor boards but we never got stuck and we never broke down, and we didn't have "paved roads"!!! So please do not get too narrow eyed at some of us who do not have skills or money some of you have. OK? I posted the document for its intended 'value' that is all. Having said all that, Happy New Year to All and keep posting, this is the best most positive and encouraging elctronic newspaper in the world and you guys are great!! Thank you for your advice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted January 2, 2008 Report Share Posted January 2, 2008 Paul, Your friend's epistle is a good stab at the right direction, but leans a tad towards fictional license in a few spots. Pulling a transmission as he explained overlooks a few major facts of life - like the clutch and brake pedals, which must be dealt with before the trans will come out of the chassis. An interesting read, nevertheless. JMHO:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jim Shepard Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 Hey Grey Beard! I'm going to be pulling a 230 out of a '55 and I don't want the tranny. Oncve I've unbolted the bell housing from the block, does it just pull forward a little and then up and out? I plan to remove the radiator and hood and yank it out without dismantling the front and fenders. Will that work? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grey beard Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 Should work. In fact, that's the best way to pull these engines IMHO. They're a few hundred pounds heavier than belly button small blocks and that extra tranny weight makes them even heavier. Let us know how it works for you. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodscavenger Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 Great post but a few more details would be even more appreciated. 1) Could you elaborate on the Ford rear brake upgrade? Part #'s would be awesome. 2) Could you give more details on the dual reservoir MC? The current steering box is soooo close to the short single chamber MC that I would love to know what a good dual chamber MC can be swapped into it. Again part # or application would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Merle Coggins Posted January 3, 2008 Report Share Posted January 3, 2008 Paul,Your friend's epistle is a good stab at the right direction, but leans a tad towards fictional license in a few spots. Pulling a transmission as he explained overlooks a few major facts of life - like the clutch and brake pedals, which must be dealt with before the trans will come out of the chassis. An interesting read, nevertheless. JMHO:) Why would you need to pull the pedals off to remove the trans? You must seperate the trans from the bell housing. Remove drive shaft, disconnect speedo cable, park brake and shift linkage, remove 4 bolts that attach it to the bell housing, and slide it back and out. I also had to raise up the front of my engine so that the park brake drum would clear the cross member, but mine is a Fluid Drive with the big 4 speed. If you tried to pull the bell housing with the trans, it'll never come off. The bell housing wraps in behind the flywheel. You either need to remove the flywheel to get the bell housing off, or be able to lift it up over the top of the flywheel. I can't think of any way you could do that with the trans attached. You will need to pull the pedals off before removing the engine. I pullled my engine with the bell housing attached. Just removed the pedals and master cylinder. I installed the engine and trans as one unit, but the cab was off at that time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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