Water Distribution Tube R & R

[p10_tom]

Yeah I reckon it could be done in the vehicle. Probably pull the temperature sensor out first and disconnect the heater if you have one

[48Dodger]

I've posted this video in other places, so I apologize if its redundant......thought I'd post it in a better place.

48D

 

Estrada MotorSports 1948-53 Dodge Trucks: Water Distribution Tube

[P15-D24]

Thank you!

[seabee1950]

I once built  Trans and engine in a Corvette while testing it the cooling part of the radiator started leaking and went into the new trans and trans fluid invaded the engine and it coated the inside, so a guy told me to put a spoon of dishwasher soap Powder and run the engine till hot then keep flushing till its all out. The block was clean after that.  As far as installing a new tube its better to remove the rear freeze plug as mine was full even after they dipped it in the tank, I dug for a while getting the gunk out.

 

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Powder

[pflaming]

To remove the rear freeze plug the clutch housing need to be removed.  This week I cleaned up this engine. It's quite evident how some previous owner removed the tube. Also note where the freeze plug is. (Brass plug)

Edited November 10, 2017 by pflaming

[Jon Kingston]

Napa used to have them in their catalog. If you can find someone who will open a BOOK and not look on a computer, you can get a part number to help your search. Also, there were Brass ones made. If you can find one of them, BUY IT.  They're out there, you just need to spend the time looking. Many auto machine shops have them in their catalogs also.

[TodFitch]

Reviving a thread from over three years ago?

 

You did get me to check if Napa Online had a cross from the original Chrysler number for the cylinder block water distribution tube. They don’t.

[wagoneer]

On 11/10/2017 at 8:19 AM, pflaming said:

To remove the rear freeze plug the clutch housing need to be removed.  This week I cleaned up this engine. It's quite evident how some previous owner removed the tube. Also note where the freeze plug is. (Brass plug)

 

1. Welch plug

 

There is a curious statement in the Chrysler manual -

 

“On car models C30…C40…, the water distribution tube is located behind the Welch plug near water water pump. Remove Welch plug, after which the tube can be removed. A heavy rod with a hook forged on one end will facilitate removal.”

 

 

Which Welch plug specifically? The large hole to the side of the WDT an uncapped repurposed Welch plug ? Should it be capped b/c there is no slot for it on the pump?

 

The other one that might help is the rear plug you indicate but that’s not exactly convenient most of the time to access. The only other one could be on the side next to the pump, but doesn’t seem helpful for rip and replace?

 

 

 

 

2.  Fill the inlet / Flared tube?
 

Second , Is the tube supposed to fit snuggly to fit in the whole half moon inlet space? Is the tube supposed to match exactly the half moon space that is on the pump to prevent back pressure and direct flow around the pistons?

 

The service manual says,

”care must be exercised when installing a new distributor tube to see that the front end of the tube is flared in a manner similar to the original installation”

 

I ask because I just put in a new water distribution tube but it certainly doesn’t fill the whole space. Would I need to use something to force it to fill the space?

 

seems to me it “should” fill the space so water from pump goes directly into tube without spilling around the sides. Thoughts on potentially using a mallet to tap the sides to have form more closely into the shape while it's in the block?

 

Below is from the truck with the new wdt 

 

This is the existing one from the Chrysle; It seems to fit more closely. 

 

Edited August 13, 2021 by wagoneer

[JBNeal]

I'm gonna go out on a limb and say that manual passage is in error as the WDT is behind the water pump, which needs to be removed prior to WDT removal.  That large hole next to the WDT should not have a welch plug as that passage feeds into a smaller passage on the water pump back plate.

 

The WDT needs to be flared to its block opening, and this was done at the factory probably with a special tool that got whacked until the tube opening contacted the block opening.  A scrap piece of 2x4, formed on a bench grinder, could approximate this flaring tool to match how the original was formed.

[Bryan]

On the subject of water distribution tubes. I just bought a stainless steel tube.  Does anybody know if it's supposed to be tapered towards the rear?  Anybody with an original or NOS please chime in. 

[greg g]

Yes the design is tapered.  It primary function is to direct coolant up from the slots on top to the area under the valve seats.  The shape and size of the slots assures equal flow to all the areas around the seats.

[MBSoPaB]

Another vote for Leverage:

A success story here utilizing two 24" long pry bars (and safety glasses).  On a moderately stuck WDT, I smashed the visible end of the WDT flat along it's tall axis for about an inch and a half (pliers, then vise grips, smashy smashy!).  Using a pry bar in each hand, insert a pry bar about 3/4" on either side of the smashed WDT end.  A synchronous pry, levered on the cast iron block, and a half a dozen attempts to get the pry bars' ends in unison, created a massive amount of clamping force between the tips (chew, tear into the WDT steel), and leverage to roll at the block, pulling the WDT out/forward.  In my case, after an 1/8" of movement observed, I opted to take a ball pein hammer and tap the WDT back in some small amount, followed with repeated small bites with the pry bar leverage.

 

My previous six (steel) WDT removals were all thwarted, with several tricks tried for removal; hooked removal tool and prying, hooked removal tool and slide hammer, vise grips and prying, welding a bolt in the steel WDT then slide hammer, no luck, on the various preceeding engines.  Prep had previously included taps from punch and hammer through removed manifold stud holes, same from cylinder head bolt holes, and sliding the 1/8" flat stock down the sides of the WDT (manifold, and cylinder).  In my case, that last one, the 1/8" flat stock along the outside of the WDT seemed to have the greatest effect, freeing up the WDT where bound up.

 

The negatives of the dual pry bar method; some rounding to the edges of the block at the cooling/waterpump hole, but nothing that a little flat file work won't blend back naturally into the cavity for the fresh WDT to expand and seat to.

 

Of the last seven flatheads I disassembled, not one had a brass WDT, unfortunately.  Perhaps the next one will?  One can only hope.

 

MBSoPaB