Haydenh Posted July 23, 2025 Posted July 23, 2025 Hello All, In an effort to not only motivate myself to tackle the job and to let @Brent B3B know I am actually working on the truck again, I am going to start a "restoration" thread for my 1948 B-1-J. By the few threads I've had in starting down this path, I have made a dismal amount of progress on the truck. I finally feel that I either need to dig into the truck and start or I need to sell it and leave the forum (but I'd prefer to get the old truck driving again). That being said, Truck specs in case anyone searches for them in the future: 1948 B-1-J (618th off the line) 152" Wheelbase 1962-ish WH300 251ci L6 Clark 2XXV 5-speed direct-drive transmission 8.25-20 tires Anthony Hydraulic stakeside dump bed The 251 motor is tired and needs a rebuild if it is good shape and nothing cracked or warped (it did overheat quite a bit on me when I was moving it one day). My "Plan A" is to rebuild the motor into a 265 if I can find a good 265 crank and connecting rods, maybe help the motor breathe a bit more with a low pressure turbo and a Holley Sniper EFI for the mountains I live in (6000' to 11000') but at a minimum I would do a dual carb to keep things simple. While the motor is out, I will take the Clark transmission out to see if it needs a rebuild, but I am worried about parts availability there which would make the motor rebuild a moot point if I have to get a different transmission. I wouldn't even know where to take the Clark to get it looked over either as I don't know if the local transmission shops or truck shops have seen one in decades. If either the Motor or the Transmission is done for and I am unable to find replacements that aren't also worn out or overpriced (I'm seeing worn out 230s going for around 1k now around here which is bananas), I will pursue my "Plan B" which would be swapping to a more modern drivetrain setup. If I end up going this route, I'd like to avoid having to swap to a different chassis since the 2-ton frame being fairly straight should mean I can add whatever I want fairly easily. But if I end up going that route, I will try to swap to some more modern axles as well (potentially out of an F550). Ideally, I will keep the truck mostly original which in the long run will save me money and get me on the road faster than having to do major modifications for the drivetrain but that is the rough two options that I have made up in my head for now. I am open to other suggestions though! Everything else will just be the major cosmetics cleanup, reupholstery of interior, new wiring and lenses, new rubber all around, and a couple of panes of side window glass. My plan is to keep the paint patina'd and follow @pflaming's guide here: https://p15-d24.com/topic/52365-starting-my-b2c-restoration/page/2/#comment-564804 The truck is in really good shape all things considered and doesn't need all that much at the moment, just little fixes here and there! I'd venture to say it is in better shape than my current pickup in terms of things needed to get it in tip top shape! The photo I attached is as it sits now. I will try to take photos as I work on things so I can keep track and share with you along the way! Thank you! 1
Haydenh Posted July 23, 2025 Author Posted July 23, 2025 Step 1 before I can take the dog house off is to build a small storage shed or buy a cheap harbor freight "canvas Carport" to store parts in to protect them from the elements. So in the meantime, I'm going to start with taking the steel sheet metal off of the flatbed that were added at some point to keep the grain in but are very warped and not very secure. I need to replace the boards underneath anyways as they have started to rot. It'll just be more original without the slick, steel decking and with wood planks again showing. And I need to get at the Hydraulics that the PTO runs so I can take them in to be rebuilt as well. Will follow up with a post and photos as I work through that! (hopefully within a week!)
wallytoo Posted July 25, 2025 Posted July 25, 2025 the flatheads are tough engines. the 251 is a nice size for these medium duty trucks, although i'm sure a 265 would be sweet. plenty of parts available to get your engine running reliably, other than the crankshaft. i still use mine year round in the northeast after 18 years of owning it, and put an average of 500 miles per year on it. i've been considering putting a steel sheet over the wooden bed to help with dumping the loads; sometimes a lot of stuff sticks to the bed and won't unload with the dump body fully raised (i have a marion hoist).
Haydenh Posted July 26, 2025 Author Posted July 26, 2025 On 7/25/2025 at 5:32 AM, wallytoo said: the flatheads are tough engines. the 251 is a nice size for these medium duty trucks, although i'm sure a 265 would be sweet. plenty of parts available to get your engine running reliably, other than the crankshaft. i still use mine year round in the northeast after 18 years of owning it, and put an average of 500 miles per year on it. i've been considering putting a steel sheet over the wooden bed to help with dumping the loads; sometimes a lot of stuff sticks to the bed and won't unload with the dump body fully raised (i have a marion hoist). If I can find the parts for the 265 conversion I will go that route when i rebuild the 251 but if not, I'm sure I can follow some of the old school hop-up tricks and have a good, reliable machine or go the "new school" route that I described with a turbo, I'm sure my pocket book will get the best of me and I'll just try to keep it simple and cheap. I didn't even think about things sticking to the wood and not sliding with the bed up. I think that regardless, I will have to pull the sheet metal off to replace the boards underneath (most are dry-rotted) but maybe instead of repurposing the sheeting for my other projects, I will just set it aside and have it put back on by my local spring/trailer shop that specializes in flatbeds. I've considered just doing raised steel strips that just bolts between or through the new boards at a specific interval to allow the wood to show through like the lighter duty bed bodied trucks have but also still assist in getting stuff to slide off of the bed. I don't know if it is better to have easier access to be able to replace boards and have it look nice for the occasional parade or if it is better to just take it to the welder and have him just make it all a metal deck instead. It is good to know at least that you are working your truck consistently! Do you have the 2-speed rear end on yours or just the single speed?
wallytoo Posted July 27, 2025 Posted July 27, 2025 (edited) i have the eaton 1350 2-speed; makes the truck quite useable on the secondary highways and back roads, especially when hauling a load. the remote brake cylinder/midland vacuum booster is a big plus, too. my truck stops very well with a load. Edited July 27, 2025 by wallytoo 2
Haydenh Posted July 27, 2025 Author Posted July 27, 2025 4 hours ago, wallytoo said: i have the eaton 1350 2-speed; makes the truck quite useable on the secondary highways and back roads, especially when hauling a load. the remote brake cylinder/midland vacuum booster is a big plus, too. my truck stops very well with a load. I might have to watch for a 2-speed. I have the single speed and it is quite possibly the 7.1:1 ratio which topped me out around 50mpg. I’d love to be able to cruise at 55mlg without making the engine scream but then, maybe it was screaming because it needed a rebuild! Your photos and use are definitely inspiring me to use it like it was intended!
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