gewmohasmojo Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 Good morning. I am new on this forum and appreciate the opportunity to ask some questions. I'm from Ohio, live in New York City, and have a home on the Jersey shore, where we spend the Summers and weekends throughout the year. I'd love to have a classic ride to cruise the shoreline and area and love the timeless elegance of post-war Dodges. And my Fathers first car was a 49 Dodge, so I have some passed-down loyalty. I have been considering the purchase of a 1948 Dodge Custom 4 door and have had good back and forth with the owner, including additional photographs. Unfortunately, he's 4 hours away in PA so I am trying to determine if its worth my time and effort just to see the car in person. The paint was done a few years ago, while the interior and motor/transmission were redone a couple years back, and he just put brand new tires on it. The car is all original and the chrome is in great shape. He also mentioned its been garaged its entire life, only has 40k miles, and there's not a spot of rust on it. He decided to replace the wiring harness and only got a 1/3 of the way done before stopping the work. He said the car ran like a top before the wiring harness pause. It appears to be a beautiful car, worthy of leisurely car shows and parades, as well as a good driver (which Intend to do). 1) What is the best way to determine the value of the car? In my research it seems it could be worth anywhere from $6k to $20k. 2) The owner believes it's only a few hours more work from running, if finished by someone who knows what they're doing. I have experience with wiring but not on this car. Am I walking into a disaster? He has the books, diagrams, and all wires are labeled, etc. 3) Anything in particular I should definitely ask about the car? What to watch out for? 4) Are parts available? Thank you for any assistance. I really appreciate it. Much respect and admiration for all of you classic Dodge owners. Have a good one today. Michael Quote
matt167 Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 The nice things about these cars is they are fairly cheap to get in reasonable condition. From what you say, I would say somewhere south of $10k depending on the paint and interior condition. Somewhere just north of $5k if it’s nice but not that nice valves stick and rings break on the engines, otherwise they are tough. I bought a ‘51 and kind of got burned as it has low compression on one cylinder.’ i wouldn’t buy it without a compression test ( with experience on why) parts are mostly available with a few suppliers and plenty of NOS if you look 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 there is nothing anyone here may say that would prevent/sway me from making an inspection. 4 hours.....I have had sneezing jags last longer than that....if the blurb and pictures show the car presentable, make the move to inspect...only you can make that call. Sounds like you have no problem driving to the shore home when you want. Step up or step away. 1 Quote
Los_Control Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 It is described as a pretty decent car ... be curious what their asking price is, what they think it is worth? Saying $6K-$20K sounds in the ball park. .... One thing about these old Mopars, they just do not carry the same resale value as a comparable Ford or Chebby of the same year. ..... $20K IMHO, needs to be extremely good condition. .... non running does not count. What bothers me is the wiring and why they stopped and never finished it .... This can be a challenging job for some ... not such a big deal for others. Assuming the car is stock, it has a 6V positive ground electrical system. .... Did the owner get in over their head and start a project they can not finish? This kinda makes their 2/3rds of the work done, questionable. .... I would guess the unfinished part is under the dash. I do not know this for sure, I believe you can remove the seat and get room to get under the dash ... the actual seat base is welded to the floor and does not come out. These cars get rewired all the time, it is just not a easy job to get under the dash and work comfortably .... maybe this is why it is not finished? Maybe it is a disaster and all needs to be redone. I feel you need to reach a agreeable price, then go look at it and see if it is as described and if it is a job you can finish. 4 hours is not that bad, I drove 3.5 hours to purchase my daily driver truck. 1 Quote
Sniper Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 Many of my customer visits start with a 4-5 hour drive. I'd make the drive. Takes three wires to make it run, two of them being the battery cables. If he can't get the engine running, it doesn't run, period. Without a running engine, no test drive. No idea if the transmission or brakes are any good. No idea how the front suspension or rear axle have held up. All you can do is look at the cosmetics. Which are important but not everything you need to know to put a value on what you think you'd pay for it and that is the number that matters. Not what he wants, because if he's asking more than you think you want to spend there is no deal. If he's asking less, well that's up to you. 1 Quote
gwaggonercpa Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 https://www.collectorcarmarket.com/valuereport/prices/1948-dodge-custom-value.html This site seems to have realistic values. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 (edited) the site is not realistic in that not all models represented and no description of what would contribute to a car in good condition based on excellent or fair. Raw number is nothing here but an insurance value at replacement cost should there be a totaled vehicle payout. Trust me these guys will arrive at a fair market value that will leave you saying 'what' Edited June 16 by Plymouthy Adams 1 Quote
Los_Control Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 I bought my 1949 Dodge truck with just photos from the sales post .... The truck sat in a field for 30 years and it needed everything ... there were no surprises when it was delivered .... sorta. I did have one before and I knew all the problems that I would need to deal with .... in the end I do not regret it and it all worked out fine ... I got lucky. It was only 2 hours away .... I was satisfied with the asking price and paid extra to have the seller deliver it. .... $2100 delivered. No cash exchanged hands until the truck was delivered and clear title produced. If I was going to pay up extra for no rust, 40K miles, fresh paint, rebuilt engine .... what's the interior like? .... If I'm worried about the price, I need to inspect it. My truck, I just knew it would be bad and did not want to be arsed to go look at it ... just send it. .... The zero's in your bank account will determine your cant be arsed, just send it level. These engines are tough ... if it has been sitting for a few years or unknown amount of time .... add some marvel mystery oil into the cylinders and let it soak before trying to turn over the engine by hand. Then turn it over by hand ... that eliminates any stuck or broken rings .... I kinda doubt this engine will have stuck valves .... If it has been rebuilt and running modern oils ... just a non issue. ..... stuck valves is a byproduct of running non detergent oil and getting sludge on the valve stems that cause them to stick. Keep in mind, my engine sat in a field for 30 years and was parked because of overheating issues .... With a lot of effort and a long term project, the engine runs perfect today. .... They made these engines from the 30's-70's and made very little changes to them .... they just worked as is. .... If it is as they say, I would not worry about the engine .... what transmission does it have? I just assume a standard 3spd. I'm not really worried about the car, anything can be fixed ... The correct 6V wiring harness for the car is expensive. 6V requires twice as heavy wires then 12V. Is it possible the seller is installing a incorrect wire harness? ... something you need to verify ... A proper 6V harness can cost between $600-$1K A good 12V harness might be around $300-$400 ... I paid $65 for my 12V harness from amazon. Anything on the car can be fixed .... you just need to trust but verify and inspect in person and pay special attention to title before purchase. 1 Quote
gewmohasmojo Posted June 16 Author Report Posted June 16 I really appreciate all of the responses and information. This is a big help. I don't mind the 4 hour drive and potentially figuring out how to get the car to my NJ garage. But since I don' t have a lot of experience with these cars, I'm hoping to learn the asking price is at least in the right ballpark. At this point I'll probably make the trip and be optimistic. He stopped working on the wiring harness because he says his health won't allow him to do it any longer. And now he needs to reduce his belongings because he needs to move to a smaller place. He's asking $9,500 while saying its worth much more. So when I see a potential value range so broad out there, I moved to this forum for some help. I wasn't sure about sharing photos initially, but feel much better about it now with the great responses. The seller seems honest and sincere and I believe the photos back up what he's told me and the work he's had done. Any other thoughts or opinions on his asking price would again be much appreciated. Have a good one. Quote
Los_Control Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 To have that radiator recored ...original honeycomb ... $1K Engine rebuilt ... $5K-$6K in machine work A decent paint job today ... todays inflation, not under $10K Upholstery work done today is not cheap ... I should not even guess here. ... It is not original but looks good ... Maybe $2K-$3K Tires are new? ... curious what brand ... I'm guessing between $600-$1K or more. The original factory wood grain dash is priceless ... It is refinished I bet, but looks great. The list just goes on. The poor guy is taking a beating on the price ... nature of the beast, he will never recover the $$ he has invested into it ... You can see from the interior photo the un-comfort of getting under the dash to finish it .... It can be done. If you feel like you can finish it, you will not get hurt on price IMHO ... You will be able to recover it later and make a profit if it is running. If you are serious ... I would not hesitate, somebody else can step in and scoop it up. Good luck. 1 Quote
matt167 Posted June 16 Report Posted June 16 It looks to be a $20,000 car if it’s running and driving. Once you verify the engine and transmission are good, you could probably give him that and be okay 1 Quote
Ivan_B Posted June 17 Report Posted June 17 (edited) 21 hours ago, Sniper said: Takes three wires to make it run, two of them being the battery cables. That's right! 18 hours ago, gewmohasmojo said: But since I don' t have a lot of experience with these cars, I'm hoping to learn the asking price is at least in the right ballpark. IT all depends upon how you are planning to get it going. If you'll finish it yourself - that's fine. If you have to pay someone to do so, you need to adjust your budget accordingly Also, the car that's been redone, is no longer original, by definition. Not necessarily modified, either, but still - not original. I am pretty sure I've seen this car on FB, recently. Can't find it, now. The ad could've expired... This is not a $20k car, is it? That's a lot of money, unless you want this specific car, for what ever reason. See what else is available for the same money, for a good comparison. Here is one for reference: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1000805588646902 Edited June 17 by Ivan_B Quote
matt167 Posted June 17 Report Posted June 17 Seller is asking $9500 which is probably reasonable given its condition. I think it’s easilly worth $15-20k running down the road. Going from pictures. It’s not an older resto or unrestored car that is rough around the edges ( from the pictures ) 1 Quote
Dan Hiebert Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 $9500 is reasonable given the photos and given condition of the car, albeit just a tad on the high side with the not running / wiring issue. I would definitely take the drive for that price and do an inspection for rust, prior damage, condition of the underside, and condition of the pot metal chrome pieces. Non running due to incomplete wiring is a "meh" issue for me, relatively easy fixes, but good barter material. If it is a long time PA car, it would be even more worth a visit, PA doesn't salt their roads, none of them I was ever on in the winter, anyway. Put it this way, if I was in the market for another D24, I'd be looking real hard at this one. 1 Quote
Los_Control Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 After thinking about it for a day ... and just personal feelings, not facts .... I feel like the current owner has owned the car a long time. They put a lot of effort into it. They are asking top $$ for a non running car .... but is probably a bargain for the work that needs to be done. I just have a feeling, the owner knows what he has ... he may be shopping for the correct next caretaker of the vehicle. If a buyer walks in and suggest they may do this and that and then flip it to make a profit .... the owner may just kick them to the curb. If a buyer walks in and all starry eyed and in love with the vehicle .... talk about how they want to just repair it and drive it and smile from ear to ear ... The owner will sell. I have known several older people that might want to sell a classic car .... $$ really does nothing for them, they can not take it with them. They are shopping for the next caretaker of a vehicle they have loved and enjoyed for years themselves. Just a word of caution, if the seller is not satisfied with you and your plans for the car ... they may turn you down flat just because. When you approach them, I would treat it like you were asking the father for permission to marry his daughter. This ol boy knows everything about this car, I would be interested in what he would share. So many people today may have a classic car like that, but their 50 year old children have no interest in it and will simply sell it at auction when time for whatever a non running car will bring. ..... The only reason the owner is searching for the next caretaker to take care of it. ... I would simply use caution when first meeting the older man. Or maybe they in deep medical dept and just want to unload it to the first person that comes along .... I doubt it. 3 Quote
chris 48 P15 Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 Car looks very nice in pictures Worth the drive Parts can be found some even at local autoparts store 1 Quote
DonaldSmith Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 Los Control said it, how old owners of old cars are looking for a new custodian for the car. I'm about there. I'm going to the Desoto Convention in Akron at the end of the month. I'd be interested in opinions as to what I should ask for my car. Someone might even be interested. Quote
vintage6t Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 One big question is what is he replacing the original wiring with? If the car is still 6 volt, you need the a 6v harness with the proper wire gauge. If he's using an aftermarket universal 12 v kit, that's not going to cut it. The wires will be undersized for a 6v application. There's a bottom line here too. Doesn't matter what the car looks like, it's a non-runner and the price should be adjusted accordingly. To me $9500 is too high for that. Don't let the sellers sentimental attachment or your emotions lead to over paying for the car. I doubt people are beating a path to his door to buy it. If you want the car then what I would do is make him a lower standing offer for at least $1500 less than asking. Tell him the offer is good for anytime he might want to accept it. 1 Quote
gewmohasmojo Posted June 18 Author Report Posted June 18 (edited) A big thank you for all of the great replies, information, and banter. I could not have learned this much anywhere else. I've decided I am going to go look at the car and I agree with Los_Control as well. In my emails with the owner, my impression is that he definitely loves the car and wants to pass it on to the next caretaker. I respect that completely and believe he's over the money aspect of it. He knows he's way underwater on it, considering the work that's been done and its condition. I'm not worried about the wiring harness and look at it as a great opportunity. He's selling it as-is but claims it runs like a top (I have no reason not to believe him), he just wanted to finish that wiring harness as the last act to make it a reliable driver. I can also tell he's very frustrated with his health and the downsizing issue forced upon him. Last thought (and I hope this doesn't sound stupid), I would be new to owning/driving an antique, so is it possible for this car to be too nice for me, even though it fits my budget? My intention was to find a late 40's Dodge to enjoy driving around the Jersey Shore (have a place in Long Branch) to restaurants, shopping, golf, afternoon cruises, a car show, maybe a parade, etc. and working on it in the garage. Just enjoy the car and the cruise. For example, I love taking a leisurely drive at 6a and find a diner for breakfast or getting out to the golf course at 7a. I didn't imagine I'd find a car this nice (at least in photos and description) and figured I'd only find something rough around the edges, allowing me not to worry too much about driving/parking it. But this one appears to be a beautiful car, one which may make me nervous to drive around and park, etc. Is this a ridiculous thought or is it being practical? Does it potentially mean I have no business owning it, because its for someone else to appreciate? Thanks again for the help. Have a good one. Edited June 18 by gewmohasmojo Quote
Young Ed Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 2 hours ago, vintage6t said: One big question is what is he replacing the original wiring with? If the car is still 6 volt, you need the a 6v harness with the proper wire gauge. If he's using an aftermarket universal 12 v kit, that's not going to cut it. The wires will be undersized for a 6v application. There's a bottom line here too. Doesn't matter what the car looks like, it's a non-runner and the price should be adjusted accordingly. To me $9500 is too high for that. Don't let the sellers sentimental attachment or your emotions lead to over paying for the car. I doubt people are beating a path to his door to buy it. If you want the car then what I would do is make him a lower standing offer for at least $1500 less than asking. Tell him the offer is good for anytime he might want to accept it. The opposite applies a little here too. If he shelled out the cash for a proper reproduction stock wiring harness that's about a 1K part. I think I would see if he is willing to let you try and hotwire it. Like someone else said it only takes a couple wires to make run. Sounds like he would love to hear it one more time too Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 for sure 100% hot wire so that there will be no supply of voltage to the in-progress wiring that may be at risk...be terrible to smoke a new harness Quote
Ivan_B Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 2 hours ago, vintage6t said: Don't let the sellers sentimental attachment or your emotions lead to over paying for the car. I doubt people are beating a path to his door to buy it. If you want the car then what I would do is make him a lower standing offer for at least $1500 less than asking. Tell him the offer is good for anytime he might want to accept it. I concur. Whenever people rate a car at a certain price, you need to ask yourself: are you really willing to pay that much? 😁 I am seeing plenty of good-looking classic cars on FB, right now, and some of them are hanging out there for month and even years... At, what appears to be, very reasonable prices 🤨 Shop around, do not jump at the very first opportunity, without even seeing it run, etc. And please do a full inspection, specifically underneath. The fact that someone worked on something means absolutely nothing. There could be all sorts bad things done to it. 1 hour ago, gewmohasmojo said: Is this a ridiculous thought or is it being practical? Does it potentially mean I have no business owning it, because its for someone else to appreciate? If the car was re-done, I would not worry about it because, guess what, you can always redo it again. Only the all-original museum-quality cars are somewhat more difficult to own because once someone scratches it at a parking lot, etc., and you fix it, it is no longer original 😄 For a $10k, you should be able to get a very well looking and working car (adjusted for the value of a particular make and model, of course). 1 Quote
Rodney_Hamon Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 I bought my first '48 3/4 ton dodge truck when I was 17 with my dad's help. He had lots of mopar experience. It sat in the street in front of my parents house. When it got sold I missed it so much I found my '36 1/2 ton dodge truck a couple years later. Then...it got to go into the garage against my mothers' will. My dad voted with me. We fixed it up. When I moved out and "grew up" I built a carport just for that truck at my own place. It lives in a secure garage now. I have owned it 51 years. I like that you have a garage for this potential car to come home to. Be prepared to arrange that garage for tools, extra parts, and just stuff that needs to support this new car. Will it fit ? Ha. Can you bring someone with you for support and will that person have mopar knowledge. I agree that that car would be a sweet ride anywhere. Cmon...you could drive a beater or an average kinda fixed up car or you could do it...once and for all and drive a beauty. Tough choice. But bring somebody with you so you can bounce thoughts off each other. Rodney 1 Quote
Bob Riding Posted June 18 Report Posted June 18 The Old Cars Weekly Magazine issues a Price Guide which is a fairly accurate assessment of value- Their Guide is a compilation of national and regional data by the editors of their weekly magazine. These prices are from collector car, auctions, private sales and inputs from experts. They list six different categories from 1) being EXCELLENT to 6) being a PARTS CAR. Based on your description it could fall under 3) VERY GOOD or 4) GOOD 3) VERY GOOD: $6,890 Completely operable original or “older restoration“ showing wear. Also, a good amateur restoration, all presentable and serviceable inside and out. Plus, combinations of well done, restoration and good operable components; or a partially restored car with all parts necessary to complete it and/or valuable new old stock (NOS) parts. This is a "20 footer" - that is, from 20 feet away it may appear perfect, but as we approach it, we begin to notice that the paint may be getting thin in spots from frequent washing and polishing. Looking inside, we might detect wear on the drivers seat, foot pedals, and carpeting. The chrome, trim, while still quite presentable, may have lost its sharp mirror like reflective quality it had when new. All systems and equipment on the car are in good operating order. In general, most of the vehicle seen at car shows are in #3 condition. 4) GOOD: $3,060 A drivable vehicle needing no, or only minor work to be functional. Also a deteriorated restoration or poor amateur restoration. All components may need restoration to be “excellent“ but the vehicle is mostly usable “as is“. This is a driver. It may be in the process of restoration or its owner may have big plans, but even from 20 feet away there is no doubt that it needs a lot of help. Hope this helps 1 Quote
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