Plymouth P4 oiling problems

[Wimbledon37]

I have an ongoing problem with my 201 ci engine. The engine has been rebuilt with new cylinder liners, new pistons and rings, new crank and conrod shells, new valve guides and valves and a new pressure relief valve plunger. despite all this, I am still getting oil flowing out of the crankcase ventilator outlet pipe once the engine is warm.

When the car was laid to rest in 1973 it appears the owner linked to the crankcase ventilator outlet pipe at the rear of the engine across the engine to the oil filler pipe (Crankcase ventilator) next to the dynamo with a variety of rubber hoses.

How much oil. if any, should be coming out of the ventilator and is the rubber hose a suitable remendy?

This is driving me nuts!!

[Sniper]

A picture of what you are talking about might help.  The difference in language is not helping but I think you are saying he tied the road draft tube to the oil fill tube?  If so, bad idea,.

 

Some oil out of the road draft tube is common.  How much to normal and how much is problematic I can't say.

 

Some have tried various methods to mitigate the oil issue you mentioned but by the nature of the design it's going to put some out out the tube.  It really isn't well baffled to prevent that. 

 

The is a PCV setup that might address it, MoPar used it on military engines of the era.  Vintage Powerwagons sells a kit to do just this, Part #CC928409K

 

 

[Ivan_B]

Oil should not be "flowing" from the draft vent... If you are noticing it, something probably ain't right 🤨

[desoto1939]

when you state flowing is like you are poring the oil out of the bottle of the oil container or is is a couple of drops of oil.

 

Need to be more specific and also take some pictures this would also help.

 

Rich Hartung

[Wimbledon37]

Thanks for your responses. I have used the description of the ventilator tubes from the parts catalogue . The flow is a continuous run of drips which is enough to leave a continuous trail across my driveway.

 

Sniper. 

The reference for the PCV does not appear to be listed. there is one listed as A4D3 RCVV27. Is this suitable?

[kencombs]

Before attempting to answer I'd prefer to have a pic of the actual plumbing. The description is of something I've never seen and can't imagine why it would be done that way.   Unless there another pipe, fitting or something that isn't mentioned.  

 

Some drips are normal as others have said.   But a 'continuous trail' is not normal.  There isn't much if any baffling in old Mopar tubes, but there is also very little oil normally  in that area.  But, with the wrong dipstick and too much oil it could be flung around a lot more.  

[Sniper]

7 hours ago, Wimbledon37 said:

Sniper. 

The reference for the PCV does not appear to be listed. there is one listed as A4D3 RCVV27. Is this suitable?

 

You can't use the online catalog, it doesn't show up.  You have to open up the traditional catalog and it's in the engine section, page 20 left hand column,

 

RCVV27 is just the PCV valve, the number I gave is the kit to add one to an engine that never had it.  It includes RCVV27.

Edited June 1 by Sniper

[Dodgeb4ya]

There should be no oil coming out of the draft tube on a properly rebuilt MoPar flathead.

Or even the the need for a pcv setup except maybe California or on a worn high mileage blow by engine.

[Sniper]

11 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Or even the the need for a pcv setup except maybe California or on a worn high mileage blow by engine.

 

I would strenuously disagree with that statement.  If nothing else the PCV helps limit sludge build up in your oil by actively getting moisture and contaminates out of the crankcase.  The road draft tube doesn't really do that very well.  It is, at best, a pressure relief device.

[TodFitch]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

13 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

There should be no oil coming out of the draft tube on a properly rebuilt MoPar flathead.

Or even the the need for a pcv setup except maybe California or on a worn high mileage blow by engine.

I would strenuously disagree with that statement.  If nothing else the PCV helps limit sludge build up in your oil by actively getting moisture and contaminates out of the crankcase.  The road draft tube doesn't really do that very well.  It is, at best, a pressure relief device.

True. The first car with a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) setup was on a high end car in the early 1930s. The military went for it early, not because of smog or better engine life but to close up a hole near the bottom of the engine so they could ford deeper water.

 

But basically, PCV was known to be good for the engine, reducing sludge build up, etc. However it cost a bit more than a road draft tube so Detroit did not install them.

 

It wasn’t until it was also noted that it reduced the unburned hydrocarbon emissions from a car and became required by law that Detroit started doing it. The unfortunate side effect of the way it was introduced is that many people thought that PCV stood for "pollution control valve" and if the dang gov'ment forced it on them it must be bad.

[Dodgeb4ya]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

 

I would strenuously disagree with that statement.  If nothing else the PCV helps limit sludge build up in your oil by actively getting moisture and contaminates out of the crankcase.  The road draft tube doesn't really do that very well.  It is, at best, a pressure relief device.

I have never needed a pcv on my old MoPars I've owned most for over 40 years. I change my oil in them yearly. 

I understand how they work and what they do.

They are a good crankcase negative vent system.

Each to his own.

 

[westaus29]

I tend to agree with Kencombs, your oil level is too high. There should be no oil coming out of the ventilator pipe. Try draining the sump then put the correct volume of oil in, see if that helps and check the dipstick FULL marking.

[TodFitch]

30 minutes ago, westaus29 said:

I tend to agree with Kencombs, your oil level is too high. There should be no oil coming out of the ventilator pipe. Try draining the sump then put the correct volume of oil in, see if that helps and check the dipstick FULL marking.

The holes that drain the valve gallery might also be clogged.

 

But yes, given the various dipsticks manufactured over the years an incorrect one could lead to over filling and resulting problems.

[Wimbledon37]

 

Thanks to everyone for your comments.

I have kept the oil level low

Hopefully the oilways were all cleared in the cleaning before new cyilinder liners were installed.

The one thin I am not a 100% certain of is the piepwortk to the oil filter and oil pressure gauge. At he moment I have run a  pipe from the connection behind the oil filler tube to the guagfe and the flow and return to the fliter from above the pressure relief valve. I cannot find an illustration to confirm if this is correct. Does anyone have one?

 

[Saskwatch]

Not sure if this is what you are looking for but just in case -  the fitting closest to the block goes to the oil pressure gauge, out board fitting goes into the bypass oil filter, the single fitting below is bypass oil filter return line. 👍