Grease the points?

[OUTFXD]

So it turns out the block that opens the points was wearing fast. which is why I kept having to adjust the timing.

 

I ordered a new set of points. It seems to me I read a thread about points a while back and someone said "Dont forget to put a dolup of grease on it".

 

In hindsight this kind of makes sense.  But I would rather know than assume.

Are you supposed to put a bit of grease on the cam in the distributor? How often should you "maintain" this?  I assume you dont want to put to much on. resulting in spinning grease all over the inside of the cap.

 

Any advice appriciated!

[Los_Control]

Yes a light coat of grease on the cam as you cal it.

Too much and it will slop all over, if it gets on the contact points you will lose spark.

 

This is another area that has been discussed before on quality of off shore parts.

The problem with the points is the quality of the nylon rub block ... inferior material and wear extremely fast .... grease may help, still cheap material and still wear abnormally fast.

 

Some have tried points made from Mexico and sold under the name Standard .... they look better, no idea how well they end up lasting.

 

A real fix would be to buy NOS from ebay .... someday that supply will run out.

 

This is one of the reasons I switched to electronic ignition, the first time I had issues with points .... I have a few extra sets of NOS on the shelf .... I just chose to avoid it altogether.

 

I remember adjusting points on the side of the road as a kid .... that was when we had good quality parts .... today with low quality .... I hope to dodge that bullet.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Sadly the new market is plastic...not even a quality nylon breaker cam on the points....back in the day when they were phenolic and a dab of lube actually did some good.  Not much quality in points as technically they are way out dated....

[JBNeal]

Here are the distributor lubrication requirements outlined in the C-1 shop manual:

 

 

I have used hand-me-down tubes of cam lube, but if'n ya need to add to your inventory, look for something like Lubricam or similar.  Application amount should not be any larger than the wiper block;  I typically applied about heavy-half the wiper block size, and that lasted the year considering how few miles I racked up.  Feel free to have jeweler's screwdrivers and Q-tips on standby for application + cleanup.

[DJK]

I use a silicone dist. cam lubricant at least every 500 miles or so, maybe more often. Same set of points has been in 6 years about 18k miles, have done minor adjustments to keep dwell and timing in specs.

[Ivan_B]

Just an FYI - there are plenty of other things that need to be lubricated, as well. It is better to follow the whole-vehicle maintenance procedure outlined in the manual 😉

[Dan Hiebert]

I put a dab of Napa's Sil-glide (sp?), a silicone based grease, on the part that contacts the cam, and a very light coat on the cam.  I use that contact point like a little bitty scoop.  That way there's not a lot on the cam to slop all over the place, and the grease can ease off the contact as needed.  At least that's how it goes in my mind.  Something my Dad taught me - not the type of grease, but where to put it.  Seems to work well enough, I redo it every year when I take the ol' Dodge out of hibernation.  The Sil-glide doesn't dry out or liquify and isn't affected by temperature extremes.  (I also use the Sil-glide everywhere it calls for lithium based grease.) 

[kencombs]

Back in the day, I lubed the points by putting a dab of grease on the back side of the rub block.  That provides a 'flow' of grease.  As the block wears it also exposes/transfers a little lube to the cam.  

[denmopar]

For 60 years, I've used "Lubriplate 130-AA" grease for point's rubbing block lubrication.

Just a dab of it on the primary side of the rubbing block (just ahead of the point cam of contact per rotation.)

With any wear to the block, the cam is wiped with just the amount of grease to maintain a film.

I don't recall having to reset the point gap between changes of the point set (@ 10K miles.)

YMMV...

Edited April 20 by denmopar

[DJK]

On 4/19/2025 at 9:12 PM, denmopar said:

For 60 years, I've used "Lubriplate 130-AA" grease for point's rubbing block lubrication.

Just a dab of it on the primary side of the rubbing block (just ahead of the point cam of contact per rotation.)

With any wear to the block, the cam is wiped with just the amount of grease to maintain a film.

I don't recall having to reset the point gap between changes of the point set (@ 10K miles.)

YMMV...

My 84 yo friend gave me a tube of that grease.

[Booger]

white lith if I remember. Water pump as well

[Sniper]

Get the right grease, none of which mentioned is it

 

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SL2 or Echlin ML-1

 

Lubriplate 130-AA is only good to 170F.  Not too hard to image that temp getting exceeded and causing the lube to fail.

 

SL-2 and ML-1 are rated in excess of 400F

[JBNeal]

2 hours ago, Sniper said:

Get the right grease, none of which mentioned is it

 

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS SL2 ...

check your facts 👈 🤓

[Sniper]

1 hour ago, JBNeal said:

check your facts 👈 🤓

 

Post a source, can't use something that is not available.

Edited April 27 by Sniper

[Ralph D25cpe]

 

As I remember years ago, a new set of points sometimes came with a small amount of a clear lubricant grease with directions for it to be applied to the phenolic rubbing block when the set of points were installed.... Right or wrong, what I've done for years is use a "little" dab of "Dow Corning 4"for the same purpose...Never had a problem, the tube will last me for year beyond it's expiry date.😊

    

[JBNeal]

5 hours ago, Sniper said:

 

Post a source, can't use something that is not available.

That link I posted directs to information that I shared 11 days ago to answer OP question, and within that post is a link to the same product that ya highlighted:  SL-2 👈

[John-T-53]

Links to links.... lol. Like making snausage.

 

Edited April 28 by John-T-53

[Sniper]

Sorry I got distracted by the shiny picture LOL

[greg g]

Old quality breaker sets had a piece of wicking material mounted in contact with the points cam.  Providing a couple squirts of oil from your oil can then rubbed the cam lobes with a film of lube which allowed the rubbing block to wear a little less.  Less wear on the block ment longer intervals between points gap adjustments.  Greasing the points was never greasing the points.  However, I was trained that it was part of a complete "Grease Job" at the service station.  Also included door hingeg, hood letch. Trunk handle and lock cylinder. Cowl vent hinges and mechanism. Checking tire pressures, spare included. Fuel filler cover latch and hinge if so equipped. You got a lot of service  we also did interior windows, rear view mirrors, all for 6 bucks. In 1965 that would get you a bag of groceries and 4 qts of milk. Plus you got 60 green stamps.  Our boss said if the customer said no to the stamps, they got pooled and shared by the workers.