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Window channel/sweep/track/guide


OnlyMopar
Go to solution Solved by Plymouthy Adams,

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For reference,working on '47 Dodge Custom, 7 passenger. I want to install the new glass in the door windows,front,rear, and wing vents. I have searched our archives, and regular posts, and not  a lot of luck. Most of the information is related to " who not to buy from, poor fitment, or poor quality of product. I have the new glass just need to find the  correct channel and such. Any suggestions would be appreciated greatly,thanks. Unfortunately, the old stuff is totally gone,so nothing to measure or match up.

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Dunno if this is any use as we never got 7 passenger or limo mopars after WW2 but if you don't have any window channels at all it maybe worth finding a 46-48 Dodge Parts Manual to at least be able to possibly see what you need or what could fit............ I'd also think that the window channels for the front doors from a standard length 4dr Sedan would be the same as the 7 passenger car, not sure about the rear doors but the channels should be the same basic design & operation and you maybe able to adapt the short rear door pieces to your longer rear doors..........the front window wing vents should be the same in all closed body cars, ie, 2,4 door and 7 passenger or Limo ..........1/4 vents, AFAIK have the glass held in with what I know as "setting tape" and any good glass shop should be able to fit the 1/4 vent glass........andyd      

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Your Dodge body is the same as the DeSotos and Chryslers of the same era.  The front doors are the same as for the coupes. The rear doors are special for the 7-passenger/limo/Suburban,  being 9 inches wider than the standard sedan doors.  The rear vent windows are the same.  

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I meant to say that the front doors for the 2-door sedans are the same as for the 7-passsenger car body. 

Maybe the front doors of the Town Sedans are also the same.  The coupe door has the top swept back to meet the belt line.  

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Only Mopar...can you clarify exactly what you need?.......the door glass fits into a metal channel that has the winder arms attached to......do you need this channel.......or do you need the what I know as "Bailey" channel which is "fur" lined channel that the window edge slides up & down on........there is also a single edged piece of this "fur" or fuzzy stuff where the opening for the window is that acts against the inside & outside of the door glass when it moves up & down........apologies if I have confused the issue even more.......andyd  

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for the most part these older Mopar doors have a fuzzy and as Brit term Bailey rubber that is the channel for the glass to ride and prevent rattle and scoring of the glass edge.  Whereas the mopar fuzzy has a riveted clip that locks the fuzzy onto the frame via a clip at the doors rear and will come out and up and around to the division post where a couple of metal clips will attach to the fuzzy and in turn will slip into slots at the top of door metal opening.  This will prevent the fuzzy from falling down as the door bezel with retain the fuzzy itself. The lower forward channel that is below grade of the window opening has a different fuzzy to fit that channel that will be longer than the metal channel it will affix on either end so the one side and back of the fuzzy will be cut so the fuzzy will fold over and lock into place each end.  Now that leaves the division bar to be addressed with its own L shaped fuzzy that NO ONE MAKES A QUALITY piece that works and one is often left to their own devices to fabricate.  Don't believe the lies the seller has for MINE FIT....it is BS....I made my own and it was not fun....first off, you must be able the make your own metal L to affix flocking onto....then you must come up with your own flocking or method to harvest and transfer flocking.   I will leave you on your own for this.....and you can use that what is supplied but it WILL NOT fasten as per factory...

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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6 hours ago, andyd said:

Only Mopar...can you clarify exactly what you need?.......the door glass fits into a metal channel that has the winder arms attached to......do you need this channel.......or do you need the what I know as "Bailey" channel which is "fur" lined channel that the window edge slides up & down on........there is also a single edged piece of this "fur" or fuzzy stuff where the opening for the window is that acts against the inside & outside of the door glass when it moves up & down........apologies if I have confused the issue even more.......andyd  

I need the fuzzy channel/track for the glass to ride up and down in,have the other parts. Sorry I wasn't more discreptive initially .

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5 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

for the most part these older Mopar doors have a fuzzy and as Brit term Bailey rubber that is the channel for the glass to ride and prevent rattle and scoring of the glass edge.  Whereas the mopar fuzzy has a riveted clip that locks the fuzzy onto the frame via a clip at the doors rear and will come out and up and around to the division post where a couple of metal clips will attach to the fuzzy and in turn will slip into slots at the top of door metal opening.  This will prevent the fuzzy from falling down as the door bezel with retain the fuzzy itself. The lower forward channel that is below grade of the window opening has a different fuzzy to fit that channel that will be longer than the metal channel it will affix on either end so the one side and back of the fuzzy will be cut so the fuzzy will fold over and lock into place each end.  Now that leaves the division bar to be addressed with its own L shaped fuzzy that NO ONE MAKES A QUALITY piece that works and one is often left to their own devices to fabricate.  Don't believe the lies the seller has for MINE FIT....it is BS....I made my own and it was not fun....first off, you must be able the make your own metal L to affix flocking onto....then you must come up with your own flocking or method to harvest and transfer flocking.   I will leave you on your own for this.....and you can use that what is supplied but it WILL NOT fasten as per factory...

I hear you, am already troubled about the  lower - forward section can see it is a different animal. As far as the other channel sections, the original  fuzzies appear to be a felt like material,no " cat whishers".

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Call restoration specialties or be sure you have at least looked at their online catalog....fuzzies are so easy to pick out by dimension and application..ie rigid versus flex.  These are about as simple as it can get...with the divider post being your challenge.  IF you call them about now likely the techs are out on the car swap meet circuit but they should on request give you the contact number for them in the field.  These folks have all but bent over backwards for every customer with a question.  

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52 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

Call restoration specialties or be sure you have at least looked at their online catalog....fuzzies are so easy to pick out by dimension and application..ie rigid versus flex.  These are about as simple as it can get...with the divider post being your challenge.  IF you call them about now likely the techs are out on the car swap meet circuit but they should on request give you the contact number for them in the field.  These folks have all but bent over backwards for every customer with a question.  

Thanks for the info,good to know they work with us. Preparing to pull the old windows out. I know the bottom glass track ,that actually raises and lowers the glass, is connected to the arms with a clip of some sort, to not re-invent the wheel, can you give some ideas of what kind of clip I will be looking for with the aid of a mirror and good lighting, also to I undo the clips for the lift track first and then side track/channel ,or the other way round,again thanks.

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The US cars are slightly different to the Oz assembled cars I'm more famialr with but my experience is that its easier to install the "bailey" channel as I call it with the window removed but , at least getting the bailey channel down the side, here in Oz I've used pop rivets to hold the bailey channel against the door inner , doesn't need many pop rivets, maybe every 6-8"........the area in the window opening , again I have used pop rivets, 3 or 4 to hold the channel and its good to go..........the divider post piece as Plymouthy mentions is the problem child tho.......I've not replaced that on my car so can't offer any advice..............regards from Oztralia.......andyd 

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the manner the fuzzies attach to the door,,,,only need to rivet the lock tab onto the one that fastens lower rear channel inside the door....at the top, there are two clips use just to prevent sag.  The front is a different rubber, cut a tad long each end and cut to bend over the channel and lock in place....that is it...nothing else.  NOW the glass anti rattle strip, they are easily affixed with other style clips readily available but to the tune of slight drilling of the original v-clip holes.  but is so easy to do....snap in place, snap out if needed if you have to service the glass or regulator.  To rivet the anti rattles would be a pain I would think to work later if needed.  

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14 minutes ago, andyd said:

The US cars are slightly different to the Oz assembled cars I'm more famialr with but my experience is that its easier to install the "bailey" channel as I call it with the window removed but , at least getting the bailey channel down the side, here in Oz I've used pop rivets to hold the bailey channel against the door inner , doesn't need many pop rivets, maybe every 6-8"........the area in the window opening , again I have used pop rivets, 3 or 4 to hold the channel and its good to go..........the divider post piece as Plymouthy mentions is the problem child tho.......I've not replaced that on my car so can't offer any advice..............regards from Oztralia.......andyd 

Thanks for the information,helpful

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3 minutes ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

the manner the fuzzies attach to the door,,,,only need to rivet the lock tab onto the one that fastens lower rear channel inside the door....at the top, there are two clips use just to prevent sag.  The front is a different rubber, cut a tad long each end and cut to bend over the channel and lock in place....that is it...nothing else.  NOW the glass anti rattle strip, they are easily affixed with other style clips readily available but to the tune of slight drilling of the original v-clip holes.  but is so easy to do....snap in place, snap out if needed if you have to service the glass or regulator.  To rivet the anti rattles would be a pain I would think to work later if needed.  

I just finished getting the rear door window and fuzzy tracks out. Not near as bad as  was anticipating. With the suicide rear doors, I noticed the channel to the door rear, the hinge side the lower track,looks like it takes a totally different size fuzzy, hopefully can locate something. Am I correct in assuming the window glass has to be installed first,then the removable   channel,then slip the fuzzy into place, or can the window glass be tilted/cantered enough to slide in place with the side track with the fuzzy installed, doesn't seem likely to me,thanks

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13 hours ago, OnlyMopar said:

bottom glass track ,that actually raises and lowers the glass, is connected to the arms with a clip of some sort, to not re-invent the wheel, can you give some ideas of what kind of clip I will be looking for with the aid of a mirror and good lighting,

I'm also trying to remove the glass from all four doors on a 48 Plymouth Sedan.  I don't see any "clips" to unfasten the window frame.  Does anyone have a picture of what they look like or a little more detail to finding the clip.  Do I pry something off or squeeze something together with needle nose plyers???  Maybe someone has a picture of the clips on a removed window frame?

 

After I get the glass removed, I plan to have a local glass shop use my existing window glass as a template for the new glass (and cross my fingers they get it right).  I've already purchased the "window tape" that is needed to hold the glass in place, but I just need to get the old glass out first and properly clean out the frame to accept the new glass.  The glass in one of my doors was loose and I just pulled it out of the frame.  You can see in the attached the picture that the glass lamination on the bottom is all messed up.  The other window glass looks similar in the remaining three doors.  I'm just going to replace all four to ensure they look the same and I might even have them redo the vent window glass if there is a slightly different tint. 

glass1.jpg

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7 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

NOW the glass anti rattle strip, they are easily affixed with other style clips readily available but to the tune of slight drilling of the original v-clip holes.  but is so easy to do....snap in place, snap out if needed if you have to service the glass or regulator. 

Plymouthy, I am very interested in what exact clips you used to affix the anti-rattle strip. I don't mind some slight drilling to make way for an easier clip than the original.  I only have a few of the original clips that I was able to remove in one piece and I've been looking for another simple solution. Thanks!

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8 hours ago, clarkede said:

I'm also trying to remove the glass from all four doors on a 48 Plymouth Sedan.  I don't see any "clips" to unfasten the window frame.  Does anyone have a picture of what they look like or a little more detail to finding the clip.  Do I pry something off or squeeze something together with needle nose plyers???  Maybe someone has a picture of the clips on a removed window frame?

 

After I get the glass removed, I plan to have a local glass shop use my existing window glass as a template for the new glass (and cross my fingers they get it right).  I've already purchased the "window tape" that is needed to hold the glass in place, but I just need to get the old glass out first and properly clean out the frame to accept the new glass.  The glass in one of my doors was loose and I just pulled it out of the frame.  You can see in the attached the picture that the glass lamination on the bottom is all messed up.  The other window glass looks similar in the remaining three doors.  I'm just going to replace all four to ensure they look the same and I might even have them redo the vent window glass if there is a slightly different tint. 

glass1.jpg

This was my first time removing my windows also. Attached a picture of the clip that holds the glass bottom run/rail. It just snaps off, by pulling it left or right, you should be able to see a round/circular edge, a small flat screw driver worked well for me. Hope this helps.IMG_20241118_080237.jpg.679df86b37c4844e5986f1335b4f30e4.jpgIMG_20241118_080136.jpg.da3bc7d7db231402596399c11ab531f9.jpg

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2 hours ago, OnlyMopar said:

Attached a picture of the clip that holds the glass bottom run/rail. It just snaps off, by pulling it left or right, you should be able to see a round/circular edge, a small flat screw driver worked well for me.

Thanks so much.  I will look for it tonight and see if it was staring me in the face.  For the life of me I could just not find any clips. 

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40 minutes ago, clarkede said:

Thanks so much.  I will look for it tonight and see if it was staring me in the face.  For the life of me I could just not find any clips. 

Sorry I meant to state they are on the posts/tips of the actual regulator/ window crank up/down mechanism that stick thru the slots on the glass  bottom rail. They are on the back side, facing outward toward the exterior of the door skin. Am sure you have already located the 4  screws that have to be removed to remove the front side track,the rear one is not removable,hope this helps

 

 

 

 

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8 hours ago, OnlyMopar said:

they are on the posts/tips of the actual regulator/ window crank up/down mechanism that stick thru the slots on the glass  bottom rail. They are on the back side, facing outward toward the exterior of the door skin. Am sure you have already located the 4  screws that have to be removed to remove the front side track,the rear one is not removable,hope this helps

I think I found them.  I feel stupid because I searched and searched for them before repainting the exteriors, but I couldn't feel anything that felt like a clip.  I took ton's of pictures - all of which were making the clips elusive.  Everything I felt, just felt round and smooth like a roller wheel.  Ok.  Now to attempt to get them out. Looks like I just need to pry them downwards slightly and then push toward the top of the door. When I say downward, I have the door laying face down on the painted side.

 

As for the four screws, I'm guessing they are not the regulator mechanism bolts.  I'll look for them and attempt to get one apart tonight. 

window1.jpg

window2.jpg

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11 hours ago, clarkede said:

I think I found them.  I feel stupid because I searched and searched for them before repainting the exteriors, but I couldn't feel anything that felt like a clip.  I took ton's of pictures - all of which were making the clips elusive.  Everything I felt, just felt round and smooth like a roller wheel.  Ok.  Now to attempt to get them out. Looks like I just need to pry them downwards slightly and then push toward the top of the door. When I say downward, I have the door laying face down on the painted side.

 

As for the four screws, I'm guessing they are not the regulator mechanism bolts.  I'll look for them and attempt to get one apart tonight. 

window1.jpg

window2.jpg

I don't know if you have suicide doors or regular, mine are suicide ,so the pics and explanations may not apply.  Upper and lower screws holding the removal side  rail in place. Should be located on the non hinge side of the doorIMG_20241119_083349.jpg.eda081dd1331bb52709633c9b5f7fd1b.jpg

IMG_20241119_083413.jpg

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Removable side rail, again should be on the non hinge side. The 4 screws hold it in place. The other pic is of the bottom rail, that the window bottom edge is actually glued/taped into. The slots on the bottom rail is where the stubs on the scissor action mechanism of the actual window crank go, that is where the clips are. Mine slide sideways to be removed. The other pic is just the scissor  mechanism,The clips on mine are located on the back side of the scissor action mechanism. Hope this helps IMG_20241119_083613.jpg.e1675aa0fe2abd71ffcfe3706db2eddb.jpgIMG_20241119_083705.jpg.4ea128c085059a22fa4f85cdbf130ece.jpgIMG_20241119_083434.jpg.adc388ebd1df23e10993e3bbd6c2d730.jpg

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