Removing rear drums

[Tom_S]

I have read much of the previous info about the challenges. I got the RR off with out too much pounding. But the LR ... I can't figure out how to back off the adjusters. If I attempt to turn them I only tighten or loosen the retaining nut and there is no marking on the bolt showing the high point of the cam. I don't think I want to take the nut off and use vice-grips-I would ruin the threadson the adjusting bolt, right?. With the nut on, none of the bolt sticks out.  The drum will not turn.  To be fair, the RR didn't turn before I popped it off either, and I see that the years of not moving in the NW have allowed much rust to form on the inside of the drum. I'm thinking that the drum may be siezed to brakes? I have a puller on the drum (overnight) and have been periodically tapping it tigter, but how much force on the puller is too much. When I tap it with my 2# hammer it still moves the puller cross-bar a small amount with each hit. Do I just keep going until it popps off? Or is there a point at which I need to stop and regroup?

Before I began the brake job, I tried to move the car with a tow strap and it would not budge. I'm pretty sure I was able to get the shift lever into neutral and I had never set the emergency brake so I'm further wondering what is siezed. With prolonged barn storage, could the differential, or rear axle be the culprit, if it isn't actually the drum/brakes?

 

[Los_Control]

Think I used a 3 pound hammer, yeah just keep tapping on it and keep pressure on it .... walk away and 20 minute later tap it again .... eventually it should pop loose.

Some heat on the drums might help to release them.

 

Whatever you do, do not stand in front of the puller when working on it. .... When mine finally popped loose the cross bar flew with such a force it hit the side of the house 3' away very hard. .... I would not want it to smack my knee cap.

[Tom_S]

4 minutes ago, Los_Control said:

Think I used a 3 pound hammer, yeah just keep tapping on it and keep pressure on it .... walk away and 20 minute later tap it again .... eventually it should pop loose.

Some heat on the drums might help to release them.

 

Whatever you do, do not stand in front of the puller when working on it. .... When mine finally popped loose the cross bar flew with such a force it hit the side of the house 3' away very hard. .... I would not want it to smack my knee cap.

Great advice- Thanks! I'll be sure to stand to the side.

[plymouthcranbrook]

It is often suggested to leave the nut on a few threads to keep the drum from attempting orbit.

[Tom_S]

SUCCESS!!

another 3 thwacks and… pop!

glad left the nut on. 
I guess I was just a little impatient:-)

[Sniper]

The second time I removed the drums on my car the right rear would not come loose and I beat on It till I couldn't beat no more. So I just left it on overnight went out the next morning to take the trash out and give it a few wacks and off it popped.  As for those adjusters they're two sets there's uppers and lowers the uppers have two nice flat spots you can get a wrench on the lowers are designed to be adjusted from the inside of the drum not the outside. So I cut a couple of slots in those with a Dremel tool so I could adjust them from the outside with a flat tip screwdriver. But that was after I took everything apart cleaned it up and regreased everything that needed to be greased

[Tom Skinner]

Stop beating it with Hammers!

I use a 1-1/4" Socket and a Long 1/2" Coaxing Bar (2-1/2 Feet Long). Right where the DOG Bone Fits on.

Keep Stepping on it until it POPS. (Do Leave the Castle Nut on Loose)So the damn thing doesn't de-nut you or fly into the wall across the Garage

Turn it little by little with your foot until BANG it gives way.

Tom

PS. In this way maybe you don't Monk up the Axle Ends, beating on it (The Dog Bone)with a Hammer.

It is more reliable as to when it will POP my way

[andyd]

I've had this Coxhead brand puller for 50 yrs, bought especially for rear brake drums....it has never seen a brake drum it didn't like.........lol......the centre threaded bolt is 1.5" diameter.   

[61farnham]

On 9/28/2024 at 1:13 AM, Tom Skinner said:

Stop beating it with Hammers!

I use a 1-1/4" Socket and a Long 1/2" Coaxing Bar (2-1/2 Feet Long). Right where the DOG Bone Fits on.

Keep Stepping on it until it POPS. (Do Leave the Castle Nut on Loose)So the damn thing doesn't de-nut you or fly into the wall across the Garage

Turn it little by little with your foot until BANG it gives way.

Tom

PS. In this way maybe you don't Monk up the Axle Ends, beating on it (The Dog Bone)with a Hammer.

It is more reliable as to when it will POP my way

Here's my method 3/4" drive breaker bar and a subtle piece of pipe for extra leverage!!!

 

[Sniper]

Hmm, either that pic is flipped or it is righty loosey in old Blighty, lol.

[61farnham]

16 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Hmm, either that pic is flipped or it is righty loosey in old Blighty, lol.

Nope, no pic flip here. Breaker bar/pipe are on the puller screw so definitely righty tighty. 

[Sniper]

6 minutes ago, 61farnham said:

Nope, no pic flip here. Breaker bar/pipe are on the puller screw so definitely righty tighty. 

 I got to quit waking up so early, lol.  You're doing it right.

[61farnham]

2 hours ago, Sniper said:

 I got to quit waking up so early, lol.  You're doing it right.

No worries, takes me a coffee or two to kick the grey matter into gear..

[Tom Skinner]

You may need a longer Pipe LOL!