OUTFXD Posted August 11 Report Share Posted August 11 Wwlp. Went to put Jacquiline in gear. my foot slipped off the clutch, the engine stalled and there was a notable CRUNCH. Now I get bad U-joint sounds when starting off and at low speed. I talked with my friend and he agreed it was U-joint rattle. I looked online and there where two choices. standard u-joints, or Ball and Trunion u-joints. I climbed under her and sure enough, a Ball and Trunion joint was prominent on the front of the drive shaft. Having never dealt with a ball and trunion type before, I figured I better quiz the experts first! So. any and all advise or tips would be greatly apritiated! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andyd Posted August 11 Report Share Posted August 11 My opinion is only from a couple of years(like 53yrs ago) back when I 1st got the 40 Dodge & having to replace the B&T when all I could get was a stock style with the leather boot.......what a PITA......the memory of the mongrel thing still haunts me......as the Dodge has been a hotrod since mid 1973 with a 318 Poly & proper uni jointed driveshaft I haven't had to deal with B&T's since but I would suggest if you can to replace the B&T with a proper uni joint........or at the very least use a B&T rebuild kit that uses the rubber boot rather than the leather "wrap"..........regards from Oztralia.........andyd 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted August 11 Report Share Posted August 11 My 64 300 had a front B&T joint. With a warmed up 413 and a stick. It had zero problems handing that power. I broke many things on that car but never the ball and trunnion. I doubt you broke yours. In any event, it is a little different to install, but it's not rocket science. U joints are simpler to install and cheaper to make, which is why they went to U joints, not because they were stouter. You really need to get under the car and inspect the driveshaft to see what your problem is. 2 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave72dt Posted August 11 Report Share Posted August 11 It's just as easy to break or chip a few teeth in the transmission as it is to damage the driveshaft. Unbolt the driveshaft and inspect. Regardless of where the "crunch" is coming from, you'll need to disconnect the driveshaft to repair. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keithb7 Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 I rebuilt my ball and trunnion, as best I could. The issue was I ordered a rebuilt kit. Bernbaum’s if I recall. Some of the parts fit. Some didn’t. I made the beast of the situation mixing old and new parts. It got the job done and fixed me up. Been a couple years. No problems so far. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kilgore47 Posted August 12 Report Share Posted August 12 I rebuilt the ball and trunnions on the 47 P15 a few years back. The kits were very expensive then. And I had the same problems. Some of the parts didn't fit. The price has gone up since then. At this price point the cost of two B&T rebuild kits is almost the same as a new drive shaft. Add fifty bucks to it and go to your local four wheel drive shop and have then build you a new drive shaft with modern U joints. If I ever have to fool with mine again - I'll have a new drive shaft built. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted August 16 Author Report Share Posted August 16 So... I found the source of my driveline rattle. Just what I thought it was. the universal sits for several decades, the grease dries up, the needle bearings get dry and brittle. then just driving the car powders the needle bearings. The Front Universal joint looks like it has already been gone through. the back.... the grease is brown and the needle bearings unlubed, When my foot slipped off the peddle the needle bearings just gave way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted August 17 Author Report Share Posted August 17 (edited) So... put the new needle bearings and "ball"s on. They didnt want to slide into the slots on the yoke. Seems like the new balls are to big for the slots. compared the new balls to the old ones and they seem to be the same size (I dont have a micrometer). I watched a video on rebuilding a ball&trunion Ujoint and it looked like the assembly just slipped together nice and easy. I cleaned as much of the old grease out as I could. put some fresh high pressure grease in. Not sure where to look next. Haaalp! Edited August 17 by OUTFXD Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westaus29 Posted August 17 Report Share Posted August 17 I bought the rebuild kit for my 38 from Roberts, another normally reliable supplier. Half the parts were chinese crap and the end caps were wrong profile and would not slide together. I ended up using keithb7's process with a mix of new and old parts. I woud recommend stripping and cleaning the joint thoroughly first. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted August 17 Report Share Posted August 17 Lat time I did a B&T rebuild I got a kit from Andy Bernbaum, zero issues. But that was back in the 80's and it was NOS. Not sure what he has now. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OUTFXD Posted August 18 Author Report Share Posted August 18 Okay, Turns our the balls where to close together to fit through the opening of the flange. I pushed each out a little bit and it slid right together! Thanks all who provided help! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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