Clutch options

[rcl700]

I have a 3 speed in my 48' and after removing the motor this weekend its clear that the clutch assembly will need to be replaced. I found options through AB and MPro but they are going for $370 plus shipping. Are there more options anyone is aware of to get a quality clutch, pressure plate, pilot, and throwout bearing for this car. The clutch disk measured 9.25"

 

 

[Loren]

Here’s my two cents:

1) The Chinese throw out bearings from AB are noisy.

2) Get that flywheel machined ( you were probably going to do that anyway )

3) Have your pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel rebuilt by a local “Friction Materials” shop and get an American T.O. Bearing from them

Anything that does not require a core is Chinese made.

Suppliers love not dealing with cores and buying at low prices. I am not saying you can’t get really high quality Chinese stuff, but not many outfits sell it and you will have to pay more for it. ( remember they have the bomb so they know how to make high quality stuff )

I think you will find rebuilders that can save you some money and give you great quality.

4) Lastly if you want to you can put a 10 inch clutch in your car. That’s what the Taxis had.

[Doug&Deb]

Tennessee Clutch 

[FarmerJon]

Edit to add:the below pressure plate did not fit inside my passenger car bellhousing. Proceed with caution. 

 

I am planning on trying this diaphragm type clutch from DC truck parts. I never managed to track down a OEM one that had the right size input shaft. 

 

As a side note, I belive that the 6 bolt flange on your crank indicates that it is a 230, not a 217.

Edited November 17 by FarmerJon

[DJK]

AS Loren stated, the AB throw out bearing is noisy, the do work ok though. I have a 9 1/4 rebuilt PP if you are interested I can send pictures.  Located at 18837.

[rcl700]

4 hours ago, FarmerJon said:

I am planning on trying this diaphragm type clutch from DC truck parts. I never managed to track down a OEM one that had the right size input shaft. 

 

As a side note, I belive that the 6 bolt flange on your crank indicates that it is a 230, not a 217.

What are the intended benefits of moving to a diaphragm clutch? 

 

I also see this is a 10" setup. What are differences in 9.25" vs  10" beyond the physical dimensions? 

[rcl700]

4 hours ago, FarmerJon said:

I am planning on trying this diaphragm type clutch from DC truck parts. I never managed to track down a OEM one that had the right size input shaft. 

 

As a side note, I belive that the 6 bolt flange on your crank indicates that it is a 230, not a 217.

I believe you are correct on the 230. So I'm pulling a 230 and plan to reinstall a different 230. I'm hoping I will not have issues with stater depth on the fly wheel. Think I'm good now seeing as both are 8 bolt flange on the cranks. 

[FarmerJon]

17 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

What are the intended benefits of moving to a diaphragm clutch? 

 

I also see this is a 10" setup. What are differences in 9.25" vs  10" beyond the physical dimensions? 

I am hoping to reduce the force needed to hold the clutch down, and have better feel of the clutch action, since most likely I will be also getting rid of the overcenter spring.

The 10" clutch can hold more power and take a little more abuse, not that important with a stock 217, but I am still playing with the idea of swapping in a hot 251. More importantly, the 9.25" clutch isn't available as a diaphragm time (that I can find)

Finally, the lower cost vs the aftermarket stock types (even though both are certainly West Taiwan made)

[Loren]

The benefits of a diaphragm pressure plate are reduced pedal pressure and increased gripping strength. 
An added bonus is when it reaches its end of life, the pedal pressure goes up noticeably. However you might need two similarly equipped vehicles to detect the change because it takes place over such a long time. When you see a lot of cars with diaphragm clutches you can tell the one that needs a clutch with one press on the pedal.

Just as with a spring clutch they will slip if you don’t adjust them as they wear.

[rcl700]

13 hours ago, Loren said:

Here’s my two cents:

1) The Chinese throw out bearings from AB are noisy.

2) Get that flywheel machined ( you were probably going to do that anyway )

3) Have your pressure plate, clutch disc and flywheel rebuilt by a local “Friction Materials” shop and get an American T.O. Bearing from them

Anything that does not require a core is Chinese made.

Suppliers love not dealing with cores and buying at low prices. I am not saying you can’t get really high quality Chinese stuff, but not many outfits sell it and you will have to pay more for it. ( remember they have the bomb so they know how to make high quality stuff )

I think you will find rebuilders that can save you some money and give you great quality.

4) Lastly if you want to you can put a 10 inch clutch in your car. That’s what the Taxis had.

#1 , so is this what I need 658998? 

Worth $45 ?

[Sniper]

1 hour ago, rcl700 said:

#1 , so is this what I need 658998? 

Worth $45 ?

How many times do you want to pull the transmission? Once with a good throwout bearing twice or maybe more with the noisy one?

[rcl700]

1 hour ago, Sniper said:

How many times do you want to pull the transmission? Once with a good throwout bearing twice or maybe more with the noisy one?

I'll take that as a yes..that's the bearing needed to avoid issues. 

I just wanted to make sure that's the correct PN and that the USA made bearing was not available at half that cost somewhere else. 

 

I trust this group so if this is what's needed it buy it. 

Just don't tell my wife 🤫

[FarmerJon]

I will be home in an hour and will check my parts book

[Dodgeb4ya]

$45.00 is cheap for a good quality MoPar to bearing.

Chinese bearings are garbage.

Buy the $45.00 bearing if it is the correct one.

[Bob Riding]

My throwout bearing was about that much $ on eBay. In addition, you also get original gooey grease in a waxed paper wrapping!

 

Here's a link, if you don't already have it...Clutch Release Bearing 1946-1963 Plymouth DeSoto Dodge Chrysler

 

I did as @Loren suggested and had my flywheel resurfaced and checked for true, replaced the worn ring gear with NOS and had a local friction shop clean up the clutch and disk, add new springs and give it the once over. Even got to use the original clutch disk. It looks new, everything works as it should and it's quiet.

[rcl700]

6 minutes ago, Bob Riding said:

My throwout bearing was about that much $ on eBay. In addition, you also get original gooey grease in a waxed paper wrapping!

 

Here's a link, if you don't already have it...Clutch Release Bearing 1946-1963 Plymouth DeSoto Dodge Chrysler

 

I did as @Loren suggested and had my flywheel resurfaced and checked for true, replaced the worn ring gear with NOS and had a local friction shop clean up the clutch and disk, add new springs and give it the once over. Even got to use the original clutch disk. It looks new, everything works as it should and it's quiet.

Thank you for the link. I just placed my order. Now I need to see if I can find a shop to recondition my pressure plate and disk. My disk seems to be thin and the springs are broken. Not sure if there are many shops that care to do this type of work any longer. 

[Bob Riding]

10 minutes ago, rcl700 said:

Thank you for the link. I just placed my order. Now I need to see if I can find a shop to recondition my pressure plate and disk. My disk seems to be thin and the springs are broken. Not sure if there are many shops that care to do this type of work any longer. 

You're welcome. You'd be surprised how many are still operating, I assume since many hot rodders, street rodders, racers, etc still use manual transmissions.

[FarmerJon]

Looks like you got it figured out. The Mopar part you posted IS the correct number for '32-48 plymouth (my parts list only goes to '48)

 

Plan on cleaning the old, hard grease out of that bearing. Lots of solvent and compressed air is usually enough (although dont free spin the bearing with the air) but if you have access to an ultrasonic cleaner, they do a nice job on bearings.

[Jerry Roberts]

1 hour ago, rcl700 said:

Now I need to see if I can find a shop to recondition my pressure plate and disk.

Tennessee Clutch and Brake , as mentioned earlier . Lots of the members are happy with their work . 

[rcl700]

Well, I was able to locate a simi local clutch shop to resurface my flywheel, pressure plate  and provide a clutch disk. Hopefully this will provide years of service.

 

 

Edited April 14 by rcl700

[rcl700]

Also had them flip the flywheel starter ring. 

[rcl700]

I'm making headway. I was able to get the 230 set into the car with new clutch and all new motor mounts. I did find that the clutch torque shaft was warn really bad I thought it was just the bearings but looking over the linkage I found many warn parts. I found a replacement on ebay so hopefully that will tighten things up. 

[FarmerJon]

Looks good!

Make sure you don't forget to install the trans to bell gasket. The front of the transmission will puke all over your new clutch otherwise. 

Do your rear motor mounts have a metal plate on top? 

Mine was not installed, and the rear mounts were drastically sagged, even though they were only 10 or 15 years old. Of course I am missing the factory item, so I just substituted a 2" body washer. 

 

See part picture 9-71-12

[rcl700]

I have a large fender washer on top of the upper rubber and another thick fender washer below below the lower then lock washer and nut. Mine did not have the metal tube that runs down the middle. 

Wahers are hard to see because they are painted black. I had to get longer bolts due to the mouns sitting much higher than the old crushed ones. I could not get the nut started on the old bolts.

[rcl700]

14 hours ago, FarmerJon said:

Looks good!

Make sure you don't forget to install the trans to bell gasket. The front of the transmission will puke all over your new clutch otherwise. 

Do your rear motor mounts have a metal plate on top? 

Mine was not installed, and the rear mounts were drastically sagged, even though they were only 10 or 15 years old. Of course I am missing the factory item, so I just substituted a 2" body washer. 

 

See part picture 9-71-12

I don't have the gasket. Another member mentioned using a paper bag to make the transmission to bell gasket. The picture i have of the gasket shows (8) holes. I'm not sure why as I believe the transmission only has (4)

Edited November 19 by rcl700