Fuel gauge not working

[Sam Buchanan]

Use a Dremel tool with a cutoff disk to cut the access hole in the floor. The disk won't need to protrude below the floor more than about 1/8" so the tank will be safe.

If the floor is flat a nibbler or metal shear might do the job.

 

https://www.harborfreight.com/5-amp-14-gauge-metal-shears-64609.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=12126402660&campaignid=12126402660&utm_content=118355033753&adsetid=118355033753&product=64609&store=3256&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwlbu2BhA3EiwA3yXyu_SGxrClWmpk9WrNzNRo0kLkIRDpR3aLZf5xq2mgg-Asp1BT-4hxBRoCWU8QAvD_BwE

 

 

 

Edited August 28 by Sam Buchanan

[Plymouthy Adams]

the page on the thermostatic sender has been posted on page one of this thread some time last year.....these truths have been in practice since the inception of this gauge in 1936 if not earlier.  This gauge was common across Mopar till the end of the 48 build year which happened to continue making same models into the 49 model year and thus defined as yet another series and this later series 48/early 49 started the use of the later gauges and sender as found in a true 49 series...it was then the other single post sender came about with the single wire gauge.   Tanks Inc. does not sell the correct sender, further, the sender shown on DCM website will not work with the thermostatic gauge either as you NEED to drive each ple of the gauge from the divided resistance of the wiper to each leg.  Very few 1948 will have the single wire sender and guage....this is the gray period.  You will need a NOS style sender.....these are available on e-bay and rather good price might I add as I just looked. Dropping a tank may be a needed step here as you state, but worth it to have something done right in my opinion after a year of banging your head it would be the best step you could take.

[Veemoney]

If you should decide you want to put the hole in another option would be using the hole saw with these modifications:

• The pilot drill on most pulls out to allow sharpening or shortening. In this case I would shorten it so it protrudes past the cutting teeth of the hole saw half the diameter of the pilot drill. For a 1/4 inch pilot go 1/8th inch past the saw teeth.
• Using duct tape wrap it around the outside diameter of the whole saw 6 or 7 times creating a stop that should prevent you from diving through. Create the stop so only 1/8th inch of the teeth are exposed.
• Take your time and don't get it to hot where your tape can slide up.
• If you can manage a piece of thin sheet metal, plywood or duct work up in-between the sender and the floor from under the cab that should provide a safety barrier. 

You would also need the location for the hole and if so someone here should have it or I could pull my seat and provide.

[Mertz]

Yes the location is the other issue. I’m not sure how to find it for the exact location. 

[Veemoney]

Had my seat out today so grabbed some measurements incase you decide to cut an access hole.

 

[Mertz]

Could you send me the measurements in a pm. I can’t read the numbers. 

[Veemoney]

Mertz,

I sent you the PM. Hope it helps