Tired of fighting my old carburator.

[OUTFXD]

Title says it.   Took the carb off and went through it again.  Still wont idle,  still acts up when the weather is hot, still leaks fuel out the acellerator pump.

 

Thinking on replacing  it with a new carb.  Friend of mine is pushing for a Weber Carb. I wanted to know what the experts think.

 

1946 Plymouth Special-Deluxe,  218cid Flathead 6 with a three speed manual transmission, Carter Ball&Ball carb, and no air conditioning.

[Plymouthy Adams]

there is the problem, no AC.....?

[OUTFXD]

A little more playing and I think the needle and seat are stuck again.   What would cause a needle and seat to repeatedly stick?  These are fairly new parts (a year or so).

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

is this a rubber needle or a metal needle?  most are rubber and look to possible alcohol or other additives you may be putting in the tank as a preservative giving you fits.....

 

 

[OUTFXD]

Its a Rubber Needle, and I put Led substitute in with each fill up so....

 

[Plymouthy Adams]

you  have no need for lead substitute in this flathead with factory hardened valve seats

[OUTFXD]

I did not know that!  Thank you!

[maok]

Check the whole mechanism of the float to the needle, there is something that is obviously binding.

 

If you do switch to a weber, best to go for 38/38 not the 32/36. You will need some tuning capability or taking it to a weber specialist. They are a great carb as an alternative, I have them on my '36 Airstream and my '37 MC dodge tourer. Ideally you want a dual barrel manifold.

Edited August 4, 2023 by maok

[D35 Torpedo]

So it's flooding until it comes out the accelerator pump? You will never tune it until you can get a proper fuel and float height. Make sure your float isn't taking on fuel. Are you running the mechanical pump or electric? Pop the top off and observe the foat and fuel height. Adjust the float if needed.

[OUTFXD]

 

2 hours ago, D35 Torpedo said:

So it's flooding until it comes out the accelerator pump? You will never tune it until you can get a proper fuel and float height. Make sure your float isn't taking on fuel. Are you running the mechanical pump or electric? Pop the top off and observe the foat and fuel height. Adjust the float if needed.

 

I dont "think" that is the issue.   it seems more like the needle is getting stuck shut and starving the engine for fuel.  Running the engine with the top of the carburator removed is a good idea and I will try that when I get the car back to my shop.  Mechanical Fuel Pump. im pretty sure the float is solid.

[Sam Buchanan]

6 hours ago, OUTFXD said:

Running the engine with the top of the carburator removed is a good idea and I will try that when I get the car back to my shop. 

 

You can't run the engine with the top of the carb removed. What was being suggested is to run the engine, shut it off, then remove the top of the carb to see where the level of the fuel is being maintained in the carb bowl. 

[vintage6t]

1 hour ago, Sam Buchanan said:

You can't run the engine with the top of the carb removed. What was being suggested is to run the engine, shut it off, then remove the top of the carb to see where the level of the fuel is being maintained in the carb bowl. 

 

Or, just remove the top of he carb and crank the engine without starting it. The fuel pump will fill the bowl to the set level.

[OUTFXD]

So... Banged my head against the carb some more.   Got to complaining about it to my kid.   He said "You have the Holy Trinity (Fire, water, air), Check your timing".  I trained my boy good.  

 

Went out. loosened the bolt holding the Distributor,  Gave it a giggle to verify that it was loose,  and she fired right up. Drove like a champ!  

 

I have to admit I am not sure what to make of it.  Is there such a thing as points getting stuck OPEN???

 

Also,  checked the float level with the carb on the car and it was at about 1/4".  A tad more than the 1/16th that the book says. 

[Los_Control]

You have a good lad there 

 

[keithb7]

10 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

 

You can't run the engine with the top of the carb removed. 

 

Mine was awfully excited, anxious to start up:

 

https://youtu.be/FNNctm-_yks?t=299

[Sam Buchanan]

11 minutes ago, keithb7 said:

 

Mine was awfully excited, anxious to start up:

 

https://youtu.be/FNNctm-_yks?t=299

It might start but it won't run without proper air/fuel mixture. ?

[Dodgeb4ya]

I have run them with the top off quite a few times....the float pivot pin clip has to be tight holding the float pin down tight.

I don't recommend anyone to do it though....it's a fire hazard if the fuel bowl is low....that's when there is fuel spray/slosh through the needle and seat. If the fuel bowl is full no issue.

[Sam Buchanan]

46 minutes ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

I have run them with the top off quite a few times....the float pivot pin clip has to be tight holding the float pin down tight.

I don't recommend anyone to do it though....it's a fire hazard if the fuel bowl is low....that's when there is fuel spray/slosh through the needle and seat. If the fuel bowl is full no issue.

I stand corrected.

[rallyace]

Don't mess with the float level if it runs with it set at 1/4" . Newer fuels are less dense than the gaolines available when your car was built and the float needs to sit lower to provide sufficient pressure on the needle to stop the fuel flow.  I set the float at 3/16".

[D35 Torpedo]

Who said " 90% of all carb problems are ignition related"? That logic is coming true once again.