65bcoda Posted May 28 Author Report Posted May 28 Pulled the e-brake and brake fluid lines from the 8.8 L3.73 rear and removed the spring perch's, did not remove the sway bar mounts as was hoping to maybe utilize the original equipment Explorer rear sway bar. As it turns out I will need to remove them as they are right where the 4-link axle mounts will need to live. As time allows, I will be mocking up the rear for suspension install and then blast paint housing, replace bearings and seals while on the bench. 1 Quote
vintage6t Posted May 28 Report Posted May 28 (edited) Wow, really nice work. Seems like you're really flying through this project. I have to admit I'm a bit jealous of your progress!. Edited May 28 by vintage6t Quote
65bcoda Posted May 28 Author Report Posted May 28 (edited) 15 minutes ago, vintage6t said: Wow, really nice work. Seems like you're really flying through this project. I have to admit I'm a bit jealous of your progress!. Thank you for the kudo's..........it's just tough as I am away from the homestead months at a time and try to hit the ground running when I do get home and keep it up until I run out of steam, helps that the wife is understanding as well. How is that 383 'vert coming along ? Edited May 28 by 65bcoda Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted May 28 Report Posted May 28 3 hours ago, 65bcoda said: Pulled the e-brake and brake fluid lines from the 8.8 L3.73 rear and removed the spring perch's, did not remove the sway bar mounts as was hoping to maybe utilize the original equipment Explorer rear sway bar. As it turns out I will need to remove them as they are right where the 4-link axle mounts will need to live. As time allows, I will be mocking up the rear for suspension install and then blast paint housing, replace bearings and seals while on the bench. I used the factory Explorer stabilizer bar and links on my 47. Sorry, I don't have a picture. Quote
65bcoda Posted May 28 Author Report Posted May 28 (edited) 1 hour ago, Adam H P15 D30 said: I used the factory Explorer stabilizer bar and links on my 47. Sorry, I don't have a picture. You must either have your links outside or under the frame. I am planning on my links to be inboard of the frame for the low ride height and retain my adjustability on my front link mounts. I am not 100% committed at the moment.......still butt scratch'n and finger sniff'n at this time. I twanged something in my lower back past couple days so moving slow giving me time to think it out. Would be curious tho if you had a couple pics of your 47 rear setup. Edited May 28 by 65bcoda Quote
65bcoda Posted May 28 Author Report Posted May 28 3 hours ago, QEC said: Damn!! Nice work. Thank you sir, Currently sitting at the 5 o’clock table eyeballing the ride height and instant center of gravity on the chassis. Making small adjustments and measuring as I go…. Might as well try to dial it in as not to just be a smoke show….. Quote
Adam H P15 D30 Posted May 29 Report Posted May 29 5 hours ago, 65bcoda said: You must either have your links outside or under the frame. I am planning on my links to be inboard of the frame for the low ride height and retain my adjustability on my front link mounts. I am not 100% committed at the moment.......still butt scratch'n and finger sniff'n at this time. I twanged something in my lower back past couple days so moving slow giving me time to think it out. Would be curious tho if you had a couple pics of your 47 rear setup. Here is the only picture I can find. You can see the links inboard of the frame. Frame was narrowed 4" on each side Quote
65bcoda Posted May 29 Author Report Posted May 29 (edited) 1 hour ago, Adam H P15 D30 said: Here is the only picture I can find. You can see the links inboard of the frame. Frame was narrowed 4" on each side Adam, Thanks for the pics but from what I am seeing you are still relying on leaf springs to locate your rear end, I am utilizing a parallel 4-link that does not allow me the real estate to retain the stock sway-bar mounts. Your leaf’s mount under the frame where-as my links move inboard of the frame…… I do appreciate the input tho Edited May 29 by 65bcoda Quote
65bcoda Posted June 27 Author Report Posted June 27 Good evening gentlemen, For those who may still find this interesting or simply reference, I had a bit of time to work the rear suspension out, 2000 Ford Explorer 8.8 L3.73 Axle bearings & seals, pinion seal, rotors and calipers. Remove the original leave spring perches and stock sway bar mounts, weld the suspension mounts, added some material to the lower coil over shock mounts to resist deformation (only thing I really did not like about this kit) sand blast, primer and paint the rear components….not necessarily in that order. Rear 4-link components are from Rod Builders Warehouse…. Not affiliated but a happy customer. Next up will be completing the upper shock mount crossmember for the rear coil overs. Need to confirm measurement of a stock fuel tank from the original rear shock mounting point crossmember on a late 49-52? Dodge 2 door. (I believe is about the same 125.5 “ wheel base? My fuel tank was pretty bad off and I tossed it and not 100% sure of my clearances for the new upper shock mount. Waiting on materials to arrive to run fuel and brake lines front to back...... more to follow Soon I will be back to the body and remounting.......... 2 Quote
andyd Posted June 28 Report Posted June 28 Nice work so far, curious re your 4 bar mounting setup.........I would have thought it would have been better to have the mounts on the axle further out towards each wheel thereby using the angled inwards 4bars to help locate/centre the axle, also the axle mount of the panhard bar could therefore be more towards the opposite side and offer a reduction in the "leverage" effect that a short bar results in..........but I'm happy to learn here.........anyway I'm impressed with your work so far, clean tidy building.........thanks, andyd Quote
65bcoda Posted June 28 Author Report Posted June 28 (edited) Andy, Firstly, thank you for the affirmative acknowledgment, The current 440 is just a modest stockish refresh that was eating space under the bench in the corner of the shop. If the intent of this build would have been to be a serious ground ponder, I would have chosen a different rear suspension setup such as either a triangulated 4-link or simply remained a leaf sprung setup. A Triangulated link setup I could have had the lower bars under the frame and secured to the original front leaf mount resulting in a wider spread at the axle mounts and the upper bars inward to locate the rear without the use of a Pan-hard bar. There was not room to place the bars outside the frame rails without narrowing the rear frame and at that point I would have simply back halved it. The pan hard bar mounting was simply out of convenience as there is an integral mount on the front of the 8.8 housing for what I believe was originally an antivibration device / bar for the Explorer. I may bag the car in the future and the current setup allows for that expansion if I choose to do so at a later date. If / when the car gets bagged, I will remove the current pan-hard bar and add a Watts link to the rear of the center section. I am just having fun with this build at the moment............not expecting a corner carver or serious street machine, a clean slightly modernized cruiser. Edited June 28 by 65bcoda 1 Quote
andyd Posted June 29 Report Posted June 29 Coda, good explanation, I too have a slightly modernised cruiser, my 1940 Dodge, 318 Poly,auto,4 wheel discs & rack & pinion, updated original style front end, original rear springs, etc..been like it more or less since 1973.......looking forward to seeing your finished car........thanks 1 Quote
65bcoda Posted July 1 Author Report Posted July 1 (edited) Found time over the weekend to fabricate the upper rear shock mount, welded and in primer for the time being until I complete the front crossmember then will paint both at the same time. I purchased the 250-lb rate springs as they seem to work well for the GM G-bodied cars of similar weight..........don't seem to have much give at the moment but again still needs the body weight added to settle in, may need to go to a lighter spring...........Still need to address the front shock relocation as well, may just go the F-100 upper shock mount route, need to investigate further. Edited July 1 by 65bcoda 1 Quote
RNR1957NYer Posted July 6 Report Posted July 6 Joined this party late - you’ve got a heck of a build goin on! 1 Quote
Sniper Posted July 6 Report Posted July 6 That rear panhard Rod still makes me nervous. The shorter the panhard rod the more likely it is to move the axle side to side as it goes up and down. Quote
Dave72dt Posted July 6 Report Posted July 6 A 30" panhard set level at ride height using shocks with 8" stroke centered in travel will move the axle 1/4" sideways when maxing out the shocks. Guessing at an approximate panhard length and generous with shock travel and not expecting the owner is planning on offroading it and will be staying on hard surface roads that will move the shocks probably half that much, side to side would be very limited. Because one end is anchored and the other moves and travels in an arc it must move side to side. Panhard length and is it level, shock travel and is it centered are all variables that will affect the side to side travel. Quote
65bcoda Posted July 6 Author Report Posted July 6 (edited) 5 hours ago, Dave72dt said: A 30" panhard set level at ride height using shocks with 8" stroke centered in travel will move the axle 1/4" sideways when maxing out the shocks. Guessing at an approximate panhard length and generous with shock travel and not expecting the owner is planning on offroading it and will be staying on hard surface roads that will move the shocks probably half that much, side to side would be very limited. Because one end is anchored and the other moves and travels in an arc it must move side to side. Panhard length and is it level, shock travel and is it centered are all variables that will affect the side to side travel. Dave…. Your assumptions are close.. The pan hard bar is 28” eye to eye and the shock stoke is 6.75” I expect minimal side to side travel as expected for use…I did fabricate the frame mount to accept an additional 3” drop to keep the pan hard level if I so desire to lower… if I bag it in the future there will be a watts link installed behind the axel and demo the pan hard bar. Sniper.. I normally agree with your outlook on things as you are very grounded with your advice but the purpose of this build is just to be a fun cruiser and the way I have the suspension set up with the instant center of gravity factored in when the fun pedal goes down the rear will stay at a static height and plant the rubber for a nice smokey burn….1st thru 2nd and hook in 3rd.. let off slightly and chirp into 4th….. (For the most part these parallel 4-link kits come with 24” link bars.. after doing the math I requested 34 “ bars to put me in the sweet zone) At least that’s the plan…lol i am confident nothing is coming apart. Once the body gets set back onto the frame if I don’t have at least 3/8” clear to the rear fenders then I guess it will be time to widen the fenders an 1” Edited July 6 by 65bcoda Quote
65bcoda Posted July 6 Author Report Posted July 6 (edited) 9 hours ago, RNR1957NYer said: Joined this party late - you’ve got a heck of a build goin on! Thank you sir…. just having fun… I have seen reference to BB builds in these cars but no where that someone documented the build. Most folks go with the rack / pinion but I figured out to keep the stock front suspension and steering is to simply move the firewall back. Again just having fun… Edited July 6 by 65bcoda Quote
Sniper Posted July 7 Report Posted July 7 2 hours ago, 65bcoda said: Dave…. Your assumptions are close.. The pan hard bar is 28” eye to eye and the shock stoke is 6.75” I expect minimal side to side travel as expected for use…I did fabricate the frame mount to accept an additional 3” drop to keep the pan hard level if I so desire to lower… if I bag it in the future there will be a watts link installed behind the axel and demo the pan hard bar. Sniper.. I normally agree with your outlook on things as you are very grounded with your advice but the purpose of this build is just to be a fun cruiser and the way I have the suspension set up with the instant center of gravity factored in when the fun pedal goes down the rear will stay at a static height and plant the rubber for a nice smokey burn….1st thru 2nd and hook in 3rd.. let off slightly and chirp into 4th….. (For the most part these parallel 4-link kits come with 24” link bars.. after doing the math I requested 34 “ bars to put me in the sweet zone) At least that’s the plan…lol i am confident nothing is coming apart. Once the body gets set back onto the frame if I don’t have at least 3/8” clear to the rear fenders then I guess it will be time to widen the fenders an 1” See I guess I'm not much of a straight line kind of guy. I like cars that can go around curves. I used to have a 96 Mustang with the triangulated four link setup and that rear end was Wiggly as heck. I did not like it. I ended up having to put a panhard rod in that. I guess the nice thing about that particular car was that there were pre-made kits and I didn't have to do a lot of math. Quote
65bcoda Posted September 10 Author Report Posted September 10 (edited) Well once again found some time to plumb in some 3/8 fuel line from the tank location to the engine bay, 5/16 brake line from the rear forward, front brake line back to firewall (almost). Built a couple brackets here & there for things such as the brake residual valves, E-brake cable mounts etc. Looking forward to getting back to work on the body to finish a few items on the floor / tunnel / access panels as needed before setting the body back on the frame. Still need to do something with the rear housing vent line yet. Edited September 10 by 65bcoda Quote
wagoneer Posted September 10 Report Posted September 10 This is a most impressive build and showcase of your skills even in your part time side project. I know there are many on this forum with such skills, and honestly would love to aspire to these kind of builds, and to “know” the right math to determine the panhard rod length. I am continually impressed and return to read these technical posts. thank you and thanks to all on this forum. 1 Quote
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