Stromberg carb issues

[Cannuck]

I have a bit of a problem yesterday while returning home from a cruise night  i could smell gas and then the car started running rough so I pulled over shut it off pulled the hood release  and gas was dripping , more like poring down out off the carb  I tried to start it again after about ten minutes no luck . After failing to arrange for a tow about a half hr had passed I tried again and drove it home with no further issues. i had my fire extinguisher ready thankfully didn't need it .

I am assuming it was a choke issue that flooded it but this is a problem I have to fix . No idea where to start  .Do I get a new carb. this one was rebuilt five years ago by an mechanic . my car is a 48 plodge with a stromberg carb

 

Thank you for any ideas you may have 

[Sam Buchanan]

The float needle valve may have stuck open for some reason. If this is an unusual occurrence it might have been due to a tiny piece of trash getting hung in the valve. Another reason it could overflow is the float getting hung up on the bowl due to a worn float or pin or the needle valve itself may be in the process of failing. The choke, even if fully closed, won't cause the float bowl to overflow. 

 

Also, make sure the screws holding the top of the carb to the bowl are secure. Glad you avoided the tow fee. 

Edited June 4, 2023 by Sam Buchanan

[Sniper]

The choke doesn't generally make the carb drip gas.  I'm with Sam on this one.

[Cannuck]

Thank you gentlemen truth is it did happen once before only not as bad . Next question can I remove the fuel line take out the needle and seat assemble and clean it or order a new assemble ?

[Sniper]

4 hours ago, Cannuck said:

Thank you gentlemen truth is it did happen once before only not as bad . Next question can I remove the fuel line take out the needle and seat assemble and clean it or order a new assemble ?

 

Generally you have to pull the carb apart to get to the needle and seat assembly.  You can try to clean it, if it

s gunk.  The tip of the needle on my BB was deformed and needed replacement.

[DonaldSmith]

Years ago, a fellow employee was also experienced in fixing cars - starters, carbs, etc.  He would check to see if the needle valve was seating.  He would have carb off the engine and the top off the carb.  He would lift the float and blow into the the fuel line connection.   No air getting through, float and needle valve working.      

[Sniper]

1 hour ago, DonaldSmith said:

He would lift the float and blow into the the fuel line connection.   No air getting through, float and needle valve working

 

I had an AFB that had a leaky float, they lift and blow method wouldn't have found that.  Shake the float and I could hear gas sloshing in it.  I cleaned it up and soldered the hole shut.

[rallyace]

One thing we all have to remember is that modern fuels are less dense than the fuels from 70+ years ago. Add in a bit of ethanol and they become even less dense. Because of this we need to set the float a bit lower than spec. I set mine on my B+B about 3/32" lower than spec. Without getting too technical here, a floating body (the carb float) displaces its own weight. In a lower density fuel it will sit lower and it takes more fuel in the bowl to raise it to the point where it will shut off the fuel inlet. This can create a situation where the bowl overfills and we have gas leaking all over the carb, engine, and even worse, over the hot exhaust manifold. Set it a bit lower and it will transmit more force against the needle and stop the fuel before it overflows the bowl.

[Dan Hiebert]

I'm with Sam on this one, too.  We had the exact same issue with our D24 many years ago after I had installed a new fuel pump.  Some bits of metal from that new pump kept the needle from seating, so as long as the car was running, the fuel was overflowing.  Happened to be when we drove it to a movie set, and the transportation crew there fixed it really quick.  Didn't remove or disassemble the whole carb to fix it, removed the top, ensured the intake port was open, cleaned some shavings out of the bowl, reassembled, then installed a filter between the pump and carb.  No problems since.

[Los_Control]

Just now, Dan Hiebert said:

I'm with Sam on this one, too.  We had the exact same issue with our D24 many years ago after I had installed a new fuel pump.  Some bits of metal from that new pump kept the needle from seating, so as long as the car was running, the fuel was overflowing.  Happened to be when we drove it to a movie set, and the transportation crew there fixed it really quick.  Didn't remove or disassemble the whole carb to fix it, removed the top, ensured the intake port was open, cleaned some shavings out of the bowl, reassembled, then installed a filter between the pump and carb.  No problems since.

And then paid you for the use of the car?        What a deal!

[Dan Hiebert]

Yep.  Paid to rent the car for the movie, paid me to drive it (and the best part, drive other old cars as well).  Anything on anyone's car that broke while on their set, they fixed for free!  They even repainted one!

Edited June 5, 2023 by Dan Hiebert

[soth122003]

Also agree with Sam on this. Quick check is to pull the horn (top of the carb) and take a look. You said it's been five years since the rebuild? Might be time to pull it and clean it. The new gas used today with ethanol will leave a residue in the bowl (kinda like a dried green algae). I pull my carb about every 2-3 years and clean it, inspect it and look for crud in the bowl and ports. Every time I clean it I never fail to find a greenish brown residue from the gas. It cleans out very easy and once done, reinstall and good to go for another few years. Now that being said my car is not a daily driver so it sits for a few days to a few weeks so this allows the gas to evaporate in the bowl and contribute to the problem. A rebuild kit costs about %50=60 bucks so every few years it is worth it. 

 

These carbs are not airtight so the gas will evaporate after a few days to a week. That's also why I put an electric fuel pump in to prime the carb before starting. Makes a big difference, so I don't rrrr rrrrr rrrrrr forever trying to start the car.

 

Joe Lee

 

 

[Cannuck]

Thanks to everyone for your help First thing I did Sam was check that all screws were tight ,they were 

I have ordered a new carb kit it should arrive in a week coming from one cost to near the Nations Capital 

Yes they are expensive everything comes from the States so there is the exchange on our dollar and then duty fees

The good thing is its made in the States.

I will attempt to fix the problem myself it will take me out of my comfort zone but I have good advice 

One last question when I was under the hood I pulled the throttle and gas leaked out around both sides of the throttle valve attachment on both sides( not a lot but noticeable). Is this fixable ? 

Edited June 6, 2023 by Cannuck

[desoto1939]

cannuck: If gas is leaking out around the throttle plate then the bushings might be worn and since this isa low point inthe carb the gap might be why the gas is leaking. You might have to send the carb out for a total rebuild and have them install all new bushings. I do not have any idea on a cost but will not be cheap.

 

Rich Hartung

[Cannuck]

Just an update I chickened out on doing it myself and had a mechanic rebuild it he found lots of crap in the bowl and the needle wasn't seating properly . The good news was the throttle body was good .

Thanks once again for all your help.

[Sniper]

Thanks for the update.  I have a sort of pictorial guide on my website for rebuilding the BB carb.  I don't have any Strombergs so no help there though.