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Drive shaft replacement


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Has anyone come up with a solution for my problem.  I have a 1947 Dodge WC 1/2 tone.  I have a high speed vibration in the driveshaft.  It appears to be out of balance.  I pulled the driveshaft and took it to the local driveline shop.  They can't balance the driveshaft because of the old Cleveland style setup on the u-joints.  It won't fit in the balancer.  They referred me to another shop that is  one hour drive away.  I sent him pictures and he was not sure if he could do it or not.  I have to take everything to him so he can look at it in person. (Did I mention it is a one hour drive, one way) Has anyone changed out their driveshaft to a more modern style without actually changing the read end? I would need to somehow modify or replace the yoke on the differential and the tailpiece of the transmission to accept the more modern u-joints.  If it wasn't for that I could just have them make me a new driveshaft.  Does anyone know what year Dodge went to the other type u-joint and if the yoke would fit on the 47.

ClevelandUjoint.jpg

DifferentalYoke.jpg

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I had a replacement driveshaft built for my truck by Fleetpride in Lexington.  They build driveshafts for all different size vehicles.  If you haven't talked with them, I would recommend calling to see if they can deal with the Cleveland style yokes.  

 

Cost was $534 for a new custom driveshaft.

Edited by bkahler
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I have checked with 3 driveshaft shops and none of them can do anything with my drive shaft.  They don't have the setup to connect to and balance my driveshaft because of the Cleveland u-joints. Has anyone changed their u-joints themself? How much pressure should it take to push the bearing cups out of the yoke?  Should they just be snug or should they fit very tight and need to be driven or pressed out? 

Edited by dgrinnan
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Late '50 and up have the newer, more common, u-joints. Search for a diff input flange from a B3 or later Dodge truck and that end should swap in without an issue. The trans output is also the parking brake. I can't be sure if a B3 brake drum/drive flange would interchange for you without a problem. It'll likely swap onto the trans without an issue, but the brake may be slightly different. 

 

What is the condition of your current u-joints? Do they move freely without any excess play? Are they well lubed? It may be an optical illusion, but in your picture it looks like the u-joint isn't centered properly in the yolk. Was it like that when you pulled it out, or did you start pressing it one way in the yolk? 

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They were in good shape.  They are off center because I had to press it to the side to get the u-joint loose from the yoke.  I would not have removed the drive shaft if I knew the drive shops were going to say they can't check the driveshaft.  I am going to try one more thing an then I might be on the search for replacements.  The B3 information is exactly what I needed just in case. 

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  • 6 months later...

It took forever but I identified the issue.  The front slip spline yoke at the end of the transmission is wore out.  The splines have a lot of play/slop.  The drive shaft is able to flop around.  You can rotate it in the yoke about 20 degrees.  I have been searching but so far I am not having any luck find a replacement part.  I found some for the military version of the WC and some period correct drive shafts with the yoke included but they don't have the Cleveland strap style u-joints.  

 

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I think at this point finding a decent used driveshaft and/or components is going to be more of a crap shoot than anything else.  The odds probably aren't very good.  If you're doing a full blown restoration I understand your dilemma, if not then you might consider just having one made.  I took that route, it was $534 for a complete shaft with u-joints.   When I realized mine original shaft was no good I also spent time looking for used replacements and had zero luck.  On my truck the diff had the Cleveland strap style but on the transmission end it used the Spicer style.  Someone prior to me had done some swapping around.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Brad "bkaler"bailed me out.  He had a drive shaft and we live close enough to each other he was willing to make a road trip and bring me the drive shaft he had.  I ended up needing it.  I suspected if the spline yoke was bad the spline on the drive shaft would be worn also.  See for yourself.  About half the thickness they started out. Bottom one is the replacement from Brad. 

 

Thanks a lot Brad.  I could have been searching a long time for a drive shaft. 

 

 

image.png.530410f9bd8d73d675f722973d1922df.png

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Super!  I'm glad the driveshaft solved your problem.  There were numerous times over the past year where I almost hauled it to the dump.  I guess the old saying "One man's junk is another man's treasure" is true :)

 

Have you driven the truck with the new drive shaft installed yet?

 

 

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