Transmission Time ('52 Suburban Build)

[Bob Riding]

Now that I've sorted through my flywheel issues, I've:

• replaced the ring gear (definitely needed help)
• had the clutch disk reconditioned
• resurfaced the flywheel and pressure plate
• checked springs for uniform tension

 

I'm now focussing on the transmission. I assume it's the stock 3 spd that came with P28 motor from the '56 wagon, but I'm having trouble finding a reference chart listing our older Chrysler 3 speed transmission #s.

It seem to shift and drive OK before I pulled it, but short of taking it to a transmission shop and say "go through it", what can I do on my own? I saw @Sniper's list on gaskets and seals for a '53, but I'm not sure they are the same for mine.

[FarmerJon]

I belive the numbers you need are on the other side of the main body of the transmission. I called up https://nwtparts.com and he was able to quickly match up my transmission to what rollers and gaskets i needed.

 

[Bob Riding]

35 minutes ago, FarmerJon said:

I belive the numbers you need are on the other side of the main body of the transmission. I called up https://nwtparts.com and he was able to quickly match up my transmission to what rollers and gaskets i needed.

 

Thanks I will check. How do you evaluate the condition of the internals? I've never looked inside a transmission before.

[FarmerJon]

I am no transmission rebuilder, but when I have had ones open in the past, I look for chipped teeth, pitting, galling, signs of heavy wear, or any other unusual marks.

I belive the shop manual gives some things to check with a dial indicator. 

Good luck!

[Dartgame]

Depends on your mechanical ability as to whether to tear it down yourself, and a sense of adventure. I dont have a ton of experience with transmissions but jumped in and did mine myself. Works fine ! Be sure to get a service manual for guidance.

 

I tore down my overdrive 3spd and it needed several gears replaced in the 3 spd portion. I had another plain jane 3 spd and used it to get the pieces needed to fix the overdrive gear box. The big thing is to get a rebuild kit with all the bearings etc in it before you start. I sourced mine through Northwest transmission (located in Ohio). they had everything needed to do it, except a few other bearings like the front ball bearing, and the rear which I got through one of the big auto parts dealers, like Napa etc.

 

 

[DJ194950]

Bob,

 

You can get a pretty fair look at the gears etc. by removing the side shifter cover.  That is where your shifter levers are located.

 

Drain the trans oil first!

 

Remove the shifter arms  after making sure the both are in the neutral position.

 

Remove the two spring detent springs and balls that are located under the Big nots just ahead of the forward shifter arm location. They are about 3/4" headed nuts.  Remove slowly as just under the nuts are the springs that have some (not much ,but) pressure. There is a ball bearing sphere under each spring.  Keep the parts in order as to location.

 

My trans had different lenght springs , but I believe that originally they are the same.  Not a huge deal as they only slip into slots on the rods for the shifters to hold them in various positions for the gear locations.

I'm making this sound complicated where it is really not so.

 

Remove the rest of the side shifter retaining bolts and lift the cover straight ? up and off.

 

From that access hole you can se  almost of the parts inside for inspection.  Spray some brake clean or such to get better looks as desired.  ?

 

Have fun, it is fairly straight forward.  ?

 

DJ

 

 

 

[Bob Riding]

After watching @keithb7's 38 Plymouth Transmission Rebuild video and reading your description, I'm going to give it a go. 

[keithb7]

Do I have a transmission rebuild video? Lol. I can’t recall the exact one. I tackled a number of old Mopar transmissions. I went into my top shifter 3 speed transmission a couple of times. It was great fun.  I tore apart one tranny that was the same as you show Bob. Certainly different than my earlier transmission. If you are not in a hurry, go for it. I suggest you pre-order your parts and wait for them to arrive before you tear your tranny apart. You could be delayed quite a while waiting for parts to arrive. Then you might be scratching your head to remember how to put it all back together. 
 

You have a support team here. You’ll have all you need to figure it out if you need a few tips. 

[Sam Buchanan]

The tranny in my P15 works splendidly since going with RedLine oil so haven't had any reason to open it up. But the transmission in the Triumph TR6 was noisy so I decided to rebuild it even though I had never had an automotive trans apart. The rebuild went well and the transmission works as it should. But homework, organization and a bit of courage is necessary to take on your first transmission rebuild.

 

Here is a method I found useful while taking apart the TR6 tranny to assist me in seeing how everything fits together...and to help with reassembly! The parts were stacked in order as they were removed and retained in order by the PVC holders. This allows careful study of the drawing while getting everything fixed in mind. Hope this helps!

 

[Bob Riding]

1 minute ago, keithb7 said:

Do I have a transmission rebuild video? Lol. I can’t recall the exact one. I tackled a number of old Mopar transmissions. I went into my top shifter 3 speed transmission a couple of times. It was great fun.  I tore apart one tranny that was the same as you show Bob. Certainly different than my earlier transmission. If you are not in a hurry, go for it. I suggest you pre-order your parts and wait for them to arrive before you tear your tranny apart. You could be delayed quite a while waiting for parts to arrive. Then you might be scratching your head to remember how to put it all back together. 
 

You have a support team here. You’ll have all you need to figure it out if you need a few tips. 

Thanks Keith. I noted @FarmerJon's experience with NWTP, however I would like to support our regular vendors like Robert's, Bernbaum, etc., if possible. Any thoughts on the differences, if any?

[Bob Riding]

3 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

The tranny in my P15 works splendidly since going with RedLine oil so haven't had any reason to open it up. But the transmission in the Triumph TR6 was noisy so I decided to rebuild it even though I had never had an automotive trans apart. The rebuild went well and the transmission works as it should. But homework, organization and a bit of courage is necessary to take on your first transmission rebuild.

 

Here is a method I found useful while taking apart the TR6 tranny to assist me in seeing how everything fits together...and to help with reassembly! The parts were stacked in order as they were removed and retained in order by the PVC holders. This allows careful study of the drawing while getting everything fixed in mind. Hope this helps!

 

Great idea! Thanks.

[Sniper]

Take lots of pictures during disassembly, it will help with reassembly, but you are like to find one or two pictures you should have taken that you didn't, DAMHIK.

[Sam Buchanan]

Take several photos before disassembly!  ?

[Dodgeb4ya]

Some typical parts to look at or replace on the Plymouth/ Dodge shorty trans..

**Replace the front and rear ball bearings...

**Front bearing is shielded and almost always worn out.

**The two brass syncro rings should be replaced.

**The needle bearings in the input shaft, reverse idler gear  and counter shaft should be replaced if possible.

Carefully check all surfaces those needle bearings ride on for galling, pitting  including the end of the mainshaft end that fits into the input shaft needle bearings. A surface prone to needle bearing surface damage.

The needle bearing surface inside of the input shaft can have galling/brinelling damage too.

**1st and reverse sliding gear and the mating gear on the countershaft can have chipped or broken teeth.

Small Reverse idler gears usually have a chipped tooth...

Minor chipping won't be an issue.

**If any gears are some what pitted....replace them...

**Brake drum rear seal surface will  need a speedi-sleeve if grooved or pitted.

Have at it?

 

 

 

 

[Bob Riding]

1 hour ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Some typical parts to look at or replace on the Plymouth/ Dodge shorty trans..

**Replace the front and rear ball bearings...

**Front bearing is shielded and almost always worn out.

**The two brass syncro rings should be replaced.

**The needle bearings in the input shaft, reverse idler gear  and counter shaft should be replaced if possible.

Carefully check all surfaces those needle bearings ride on for galling, pitting  including the end of the mainshaft end that fits into the input shaft needle bearings. A surface prone to needle bearing surface damage.

The needle bearing surface inside of the input shaft can have galling/brinelling damage too.

**1st and reverse sliding gear and the mating gear on the countershaft can have chipped or broken teeth.

Small Reverse idler gears usually have a chipped tooth...

Minor chipping won't be an issue.

**If any gears are some what pitted....replace them...

**Brake drum rear seal surface will  need a speedi-sleeve if grooved or pitted.

Have at it?

 

 

 

 

Wow- that's what I needed, thanks!