Tom Skinner Posted March 31, 2023 Report Posted March 31, 2023 Gents, I have a question pertaining to the Clutch Torque Pivot Bearings. Are the difficult to replace, I see the are made out of Nylon now. Does any one know the steps to take to do this, and is willing to share with me the steps? I suspect mine are original and somewhat worn, because if I grease them they can get clunky, once the grease craps out after some use they quiet down again. Thank you in advance for the instructions. Tom Quote
Tom Skinner Posted April 1, 2023 Author Report Posted April 1, 2023 There is nothing on You Tube. My guess is to release the Overcenter spring first then remove the pivot snap ring? Quote
D35 Torpedo Posted April 1, 2023 Report Posted April 1, 2023 I did mine. Had to buy two from A.B. because they come in halfs. My car was completely missing them. The joint just pulled apart with little effort. I think I removed the spring and backed off the adjuster. You will need to readjust the linkage anyways. The cast piece that holds the bushings is attached to the bell housing with a thin strip of metal for some reason. Mine deflected and spat the new bushings out. Luckely, it was as I was parking so I was able to collect them back up. I ended up pulling one of the two bolts that attached the cast piece to the thin strip of metal. The I ran a long bolt in so the threads out the back dead headed against the bell housing. Doing this confined it so it couldn't deflect. Hope this helps. Quote
JerseyHarold Posted April 1, 2023 Report Posted April 1, 2023 I may be wrong, but didn't someone once post a part number for the bearing that was available from industrial supply houses? I hate paying "part vendor" prices for something that's available through mainstream channels. 1 Quote
Sniper Posted April 1, 2023 Report Posted April 1, 2023 1 hour ago, JerseyHarold said: I may be wrong, but didn't someone once post a part number for the bearing that was available from industrial supply houses? I hate paying "part vendor" prices for something that's available through mainstream channels. You are probably thinking of the clutch throw out bearing, 1505. I don't know an industry number for the shaft bushings the OP is talking about, though the later model composite ones work and are cheaper than the original bronze ones. Quote
JerseyHarold Posted April 1, 2023 Report Posted April 1, 2023 1 hour ago, Sniper said: You are probably thinking of the clutch throw out bearing, 1505. I don't know an industry number for the shaft bushings the OP is talking about, though the later model composite ones work and are cheaper than the original bronze ones. The part I'm referring to is the 2-piece bushing that goes around the pivot ball. There is one pivot ball on the chassis, and the other one is on a bracket attached to the bell housing. They fit into either end of the pedal linkage (I've heard them referred to as 'zee-bars'). Sorry if I wasn't clear. Quote
Sniper Posted April 1, 2023 Report Posted April 1, 2023 35 minutes ago, JerseyHarold said: The part I'm referring to is the 2-piece bushing that goes around the pivot ball. There is one pivot ball on the chassis, and the other one is on a bracket attached to the bell housing. They fit into either end of the pedal linkage (I've heard them referred to as 'zee-bars'). Sorry if I wasn't clear. I knew what you were talking about, however I have never seen anyone give an industry number for that part. I have seen it for the throw out bearing which is what you are most likely remembering instead of what is being discussed.. Quote
D35 Torpedo Posted April 1, 2023 Report Posted April 1, 2023 (edited) 16 minutes ago, Sniper said: I knew what you were talking about, however I have never seen anyone give an industry number for that part. I have seen it for the throw out bearing which is what you are most likely remembering instead of what is being discussed.. Do you have an exploded diagram? My fix was unconventional. I'm sure it's just missing a clip or something. Edited April 1, 2023 by D35 Torpedo Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 1, 2023 Report Posted April 1, 2023 Some 1946-48 pics.... The two bearing halves on the engine side of torque shaft are not retained by a snap ring unlike the other side shown. Quote
Sniper Posted April 1, 2023 Report Posted April 1, 2023 2 hours ago, D35 Torpedo said: Do you have an exploded diagram? My fix was unconventional. I'm sure it's just missing a clip or something. The parts manual usually has that. You list both a Plymouth and a Dodge, they are different Quote
Tom Skinner Posted April 2, 2023 Author Report Posted April 2, 2023 (edited) OK mine is also different Edited April 2, 2023 by Tom Skinner Quote
Tom Skinner Posted April 2, 2023 Author Report Posted April 2, 2023 (edited) Are 4 needed or 2 Halves? Edited April 2, 2023 by Tom Skinner Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 2, 2023 Report Posted April 2, 2023 Two bearing halves on each side of torque shaft. Total of four. 1 Quote
Tom Skinner Posted April 2, 2023 Author Report Posted April 2, 2023 Thank you Dodge4ya! I don't want to monk this up. Can you walk me through the steps to remove them? Thanks! Tom Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted April 2, 2023 Report Posted April 2, 2023 (edited) To replace all four bearing halves you will have to remove the torque shaft completely to clean and inspect all linkage parts. This also means backing off the big over spring turn buckle to be able to back off and remove that strong spring. Measure/ mark that turn buckle so you can get it back exactly where it was in over all length when re-assembling the over center spring and linkage. Otherwise you need to re-adjust the over center spring tension by down loading the spring tool template off this site.. Take pictures before taking the linkage all apart. I'm sure you will have more questions. You will remove all the parts shown above except for the curved ball bracket that mounts to the frame. Edited April 2, 2023 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote
Tom Skinner Posted April 2, 2023 Author Report Posted April 2, 2023 Thank you. I Made a Over Center Spring Tool with the Template already out of some Steel . I will take alot of Pictures and mark everything before going in! 1 Quote
D35 Torpedo Posted April 2, 2023 Report Posted April 2, 2023 8 hours ago, Sniper said: The parts manual usually has that. You list both a Plymouth and a Dodge, they are different Thanks Sniper. Ya looks like I'm missing a snap ring 1 Quote
Tom Skinner Posted April 6, 2023 Author Report Posted April 6, 2023 (edited) OK, well Thank you again Dodgeb4ya and Sniper. I ordered the whole shebang from ebay for only $49 (It has the 4 Metal Bushings) so I wouldn't need to go to Nylon. I will proceed when the parts get here, and send pictures. Here is the C-705 I made last year it required heating it with a torch to bend it properly. Thanks to the guy that posted the template for it also if I missed anyone. I had fun making it out of stock steel from Lowe's Pictured also is a Glove Box Door I am restoring Edited April 6, 2023 by Tom Skinner 2 Quote
Young Ed Posted April 7, 2023 Report Posted April 7, 2023 On 4/1/2023 at 8:22 PM, Tom Skinner said: Thank you Dodge4ya! I don't want to monk this up. Can you walk me through the steps to remove them? Thanks! Tom Just over grease them and then the first time Dad goes to leave they fall apart... At least that's how I accidentally did it once on the 50 Plymouth Quote
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