uncleaud Posted March 24, 2023 Report Share Posted March 24, 2023 I've been working under the dash on the fresh air vents and heater. Got it all working nice and cleaned up but now the heater fan doesn't and it did before. Is there an internal fuse in the switch itself? I have power coming it but none going out. Also, what turns on the glovebox and ash tray light and where it is fed from? I checked the bulb and it is good. Actually I never knew about the light until I took the glovebox out to get at the heater ductwork. Now that it is all together I would like it'll to work as it should. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 What car are you working on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarcDeSoto Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 The shop manual has a schematic of the wiring diagram that will tell you where the wire comes from. On my 48 DeSoto, the glove box light wire goes back to the instrument light switch, which goes to the headlight/ tailight light switch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 If I remember correctly ther is also a fuse leading to the Clock/Glove Box Light. And also one to the Heater. Search for them and replace them. That would be the quickest/cheapest solution if possible. Good Luck. Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uncleaud Posted March 25, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 19 hours ago, D35 Torpedo said: What car are you working on? 1947 Saratoga sorry. Thanks Tom and Marc, I was assuming there were fuses to deal with just couldn't put my eye on them, will look again in the morning. The heater switch is another problem though I think. I have power coming into the switch and nothing coming out so I'm thinking it is internal or the resistors on the side of the switch are bad. Anyone ever replaced them with some creative soldering and new solid state resistors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Skinner Posted March 25, 2023 Report Share Posted March 25, 2023 The Glove Box Light pigtails off the Clock which definitely has a 10 or 15 Amp Fuse in it on my 1948 Chrysler Royal. As for the Heater you will have to sort that one out, I looked and I don't see a fuse from my Heater Fan Switch on the Dash to the Heater. It may be a Capacitor, or a Resistor, I am not well versed in the Electrical Department. My Chrysler C-38 Wiring Diagram doesn't even show a Heater. My guess is its either in the switch box just behind the Knob - which would make it a Switch gone bad, a possible bad ground, or somewhere in the Heater Box. But my guessing is just that. Good Luck Tom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D35 Torpedo Posted March 26, 2023 Report Share Posted March 26, 2023 8 hours ago, uncleaud said: 1947 Saratoga sorry. Thanks Tom and Marc, I was assuming there were fuses to deal with just couldn't put my eye on them, will look again in the morning. The heater switch is another problem though I think. I have power coming into the switch and nothing coming out so I'm thinking it is internal or the resistors on the side of the switch are bad. Anyone ever replaced them with some creative soldering and new solid state resistors? You will have to trace the path of current through the switch. Usually, if the resistors go bad, you still have full blast. Use an ohm meter on tone. Probe around from piece to piece. I've seen where bus bars are riveted together, and the connection lost continuity. Soldering a bridge was enough to fix the problem. Ya never know. Good luck Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soth122003 Posted March 26, 2023 Report Share Posted March 26, 2023 My heater switch had a problem like that. KeithB put out a vid a few months ago showing how to take a switch apart and check it. My switch had lost low and med but still had high. Turns out the brass plate in the switch (see time stamp 17:09) had worn down and a little tap with a punch got back med but not low speed. At time stamp `7:33 he points out the contact wear and mine looked like that. Since I live in Fla. I didn't worry about it to much. Hope this helps. Joe Lee Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Solution uncleaud Posted March 27, 2023 Author Solution Report Share Posted March 27, 2023 Got it fixed. Like I say had power going in and none coming out. Both resistors showed continuity through them. With nothing to lose pried it apart. The inside of it looked clean but the continuity was lost between the contacts. I took emory cloth to them, polished them up and all was good again. Pretty basic stuff. Thanks 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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