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Rear axle spring perch pin size


FarmerJon
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5 hours ago, Sniper said:

 Or you might consider some shims to correct the angle

 

https://www.summitracing.com/search/part-type/pinion-angle-shims

Sure. But if you are already making your own solid aluminum blocks, it isn't much harder to mill (or even carefully saw cut, for those of minimum tools) the 3 or 4 degrees into them. And saves the $20-50 for the shims.  

 

Like you said originally, the drop springs are a better choice for those with the budget. 

But for us that have to pinch pennys, blocks can work fine. I just wanted to remind people that large blocks can have large negative effects. 

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My problem is this, shims are cheaper than a mill, lol.  I don't have a mill and if I did I don;t know how to work one.  I imagine, correct me if I am wrong, you'd have to make the block, install them measure the angles, calculate the change needed, take the blocks out and mill an angle on them?

 

I imagine shims are cheaper than having a machine shop do the work as well.

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Like I said, if you have the tools to make your own blocks, you have the tools to cut the angles. 

Buying the tools is always more than just buying the parts.

A decent drill press with a mounted vice and some sort of saw would be the minimum for the project. A chop saw with the right blade would be exciting but effective. A hacksaw, a jig and some significant craftsmanship would suffice in a pinch.

 

As far as figurin' the needed angle, most guys cut wood blocks for mock up.

They also make magnetic angle finders that can help find and estimate the changes. 

I have always stuck to 2" or less, so angle changes have always been pretty minor, even with square blocks.

 

 

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I have 3 inch blocks and it runs just fine. No shims or wedges. The springs are fairly flat so the pinion angle is as well. Imo the spring isn't being altered, so the pinion angle is the same with or without blocks. I enquired about 1.75" wide material and was told the same thing. They have 1.5 and 2. 1.5 would work just fine. But man, new Aluminum material is expensive, It's criminal. Steel will work just fine. When making blocks, I like to bolt them into the leaf pack for better accuracy and strength. Right now I'm still running the wrong 2" wide, hollow blocks with no issues.

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I've cut 1" aluminum with my table saw.  That's how I cut my 2bbl carb adapter.  A couple of cuts would get me through 2" stock if needed.   Just used a good .125 kerf triple chip grind blade normally used for solid surface cabinet top material.   Wax the blade first,  slow feed and solid hold/clamp the stock.   Setting up for a tapered cut is a normal part of woodworking so no issue there, after determining the needed angle.

 

A miter saw would work to but would require some supports, clamps to hold the stock rigidly. 

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there is also the roll your own using rectangular steel tubing and flat stock...if you need a pinion angle correction....just cut the rectangular portion for that angle corrector then weld them up.  Will require tools to cut metal and the welder....but avoids the need for the milling machine.  Roll your own cost less if you have the tools on hand....no getting out without some pay to play.

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