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how much modification to install 5.9 Magnum in a 1950 Coronet


Shopuy

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I know the topic of putting a 5.9 in a 50s dodge has been beaten to death, and I've look at all the posts I could locate. The thing I was unable to find was how much of the inner fenders needs to be removed. I just picked up a barn find 1950 Coronet that has been in a barn since 1973, it looks like a time capsule. The guy I got it from just started to get into it and pulled the original motor and transmission and tossed them, said there was a hole in the block. I have a complete 99 ram truck with a 5.9 magnum and a good trans, that I had considered installing in the car. The more I look at the car the less I want to cut out of it to make it happen, Would the entire inner fender need to be removed or just the lower section. I would really like to maintain the defroster ducting that runs along the inner passenger fender, as well as keep any other modifications to a minimum, I have an old travel trailer I am rebuilding and was hoping to make this my tow vehicle.

Thanks

Kevin

 

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Edited by Shopuy
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depends on the level of your build....the inner fenders should be retained and 'altered' by means of cuts and welds to conform to the larger engine and hanging accessories.   I have done a few of these....it is time consuming....while not a 50 and again not a 5.9  the inner fenders are tailored to accommodate many accessories on this P15 coupe including clearance for the donor AC hardlines   Items like the brake booster, in this case the ABS controller, hydraulic clutch and power distribution/fuse panel are all stock but slightly rearranged.  The major engine mod being the air cleaner as there was just no way/room to mount the donor assembly.  The ECU is mounted in a special recess on the inner fender.  The driver inner fender was modified for a radiator reservoir.  

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Plymouthy

I believe I was incorrect in the assembly on the passenger, I thought I had read it was for the defroster, but am I correct that it was the heater core and duct? Just to clarify, If I take my time and do slow and proper trimming , I should be able to maintain enough of my passenger inner fender well to route my heater duct and maintain a somewhat original appearance. I ask because the only pictures I've found of a small block in the engine bay also had massive amounts of mods to everything else under the hood. As for the computer and assorted other accessories ill deal with them as I have to. I mainly need to know that the engine itself will fit in the by while maintaining as much of the original vibe as possible. I would hate to rip the engine out of my buddies truck and tell him, nope, I don't want it lol.

I like what you've managed to do with that V6 magnum, it looks really clean. 

Thanks 

Edited by Shopuy
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You may want to check out this company for mounts etc. and a call for info and possibly some pics.?

 

https://butchscoolstuff.com/eng-trans-mounting-kits-4/

 

Web search came up some some late 40's thru mid 50's with mopar v-8 installed though few wir detail eng. compartment pics that I found.

 

Best of luck with a conversion.

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Butch's mount kits were ok, I guess.  But you can do it better.  IIRC, the trans mount was for an automatic only and I believe they required some changes to the brake M/C mounting.  But I forget.  I'd put one of my 4 speeds in if I was going to put in a V8, but that's just me.

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I’m in the process of putting a 5.9 Magnum and auto trans from a 2001 Ram pickup into a 1949 P17. Modifying the right side inner fender was one of the easier tasks, at least for my application. If you plan to keep the stock steering, get the left side exhaust manifold sorted out first. With the stock steering, the position of the engine is dependent on that part, the drive line angle you want (or need to accept), and the position of the radiator and fan. A smaller size trans helps and a pusher fan helps, neither of which I’m doing. Basically, with the stock steering and 60/70s manifold, you slide the engine forward/down and rearward/up until your satisfied with the driveline angle and modified position of the radiator/fan. Then fab and set the engine and trans mounts. You’ll probably need to modify the firewall. I modified the core support to position a puller fan and modern radiator, modified the firewall, and modified the tunnel/floor. The alternative is to replace the steering to open up the space for the engine.  Neither approach makes for an easy swap.

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Pull all of the front sheet metal, stab the engine where it needs to be and build it around the engine. I'm mid build on a 49 Plymouth business coupe with a DeSoto hemi and 4 speed. Not too much rocket science, just patience, fabbing and gool ol hot rodding sense.  Good luck. 

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