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6v or 8v battery


Mertz
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Engine is in the truck and most accessories are on. Hopefully my coil works and I need plug wires and a battery. I can borrow the 6v out off my Studebaker for the first startup but need a battery for the truck. Has anyone used an 8v or should I stay with 6v?

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I am using an 8V alternator and a battery I got from Interstate in my 52 Dodge. Gauges, other than the 6V ammeter. work well. The starter works well. The lights work very well.

 

My problem has been that I have replaced my ignition coil twice already in a little less than 500 miles. I am looking for ways to keep from doing so in the future. Everything works well, but the 6 volt coil is getting 9.75 volts from the alternator. It doesn't like it real well. Perhaps a resistance wire from a later model GM?

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1 hour ago, Marv Green said:

I am using an 8V alternator and a battery I got from Interstate in my 52 Dodge. Gauges, other than the 6V ammeter. work well. The starter works well. The lights work very well.

 

My problem has been that I have replaced my ignition coil twice already in a little less than 500 miles. I am looking for ways to keep from doing so in the future. Everything works well, but the 6 volt coil is getting 9.75 volts from the alternator. It doesn't like it real well. Perhaps a resistance wire from a later model GM?

You probably won't find a automotive resistor of the correct value.  I'd probably just measure the current draw of the original coil on the 8v system and calculate the resistance needed to drop it to 6v.   Ohms law and all that.  At a guess, maybe two wire wound resistors from a 60s GM or Ford in parallel may be close.  They drop 12v to about 8 or so and two in parallel would halve the resistance.  But I really don't remember the current draw of the 12v system so can't do the math, to many unknowns

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   I’ve been using an 8 volt battery in my 47 WD21 with a 49 Spitfire engine since I got it 14 years ago. I was able to adjust my voltage regulator to 9.2 volts and the regulator quit clicking and the gauge was steady. I haven’t had any bulb or coil failure. So, yes, it works for me. Rick D.

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  • 1 month later...
6 hours ago, Mark G said:

where did you get a 8 volt battery?

If you live close to a community that has lots of small farm operations, many tractor shops that service the older tractors would probably have them.  (Or at least could order one for you.)

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   I don’t think a deep cycle battery would work. But an Interstate 1-8v-VHD is what I have, Deka makes an 8 volt 801. Deka makes a 902, 6 volt battery, advertised as having 675 cca’s. That’s a good number in comparisons. I have NAPA 7204, 6 volt batteries in my coupes, the tag says 675 cca’s at 0 degrees. The NAPA and Deka batteries are made by the EastPenn Co. They don’t outgas and the battery top stays clean. I went 8 volt because that is what I had on hand when I was getting my truck running. I left it in because the truck is a weathered truck that stays outside and I plug in the tank heater for an hour or so if it’s below freezing. If you keep your truck garaged, have the proper gauge cables with good connections, a healthy starter, ignition and carburetor, you don’t need 8 volts. If you need brighter headlight’s, you can wire in relays. You can see that the 8 volt is rated at 520 cca’s, but you have 2 more volts to the starter. Your choice.  Rick D.

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