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Installing flywheel.


jgreg53

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If this were a BMW the answer would be no, then you'd mount the bell and find out the flywheel won't go on.  You'd have to mount them both at the same time but only if you used a special tool.  Having changed the plugs on mine lately I am anti-BMW right now, lol.

 

But to answer your question, I do not know.

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The flywheel by itself is a big enough problem.  Since it's indexed it only goes on one way. Laying on my back trying to hold it up to match the bolt pattern. Keep thinking I'm going to drop it on me. The thing weighs as much as a small piano. An old man's arms aren't  very muscular. 

Edited by jgreg53
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I assume the engine is mounted in the car?

I'd install the housing first, then you can wedge the the flywheel up in there and get a bolt in. I did it here on the hoist, much easier than trying to lay under the car.

 

 

Edited by keithb7
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9 hours ago, jgreg53 said:

The engine is in the car. I tried hooking a wire to the flywheel and running it through one of the vent holes. But doing it pulls the flywheel away from the studs.

My 37 has studs in the crank that the flywheel fits into. I had to push the studs in to make room for the flywheel. I also did this while laying on my back under the car. It was very fiddly but it is possible. When installing the nuts make sure the stud head, which had a flat spot is not hung up on the high spot of the crankshaft. You have to get behind the flywheel to see it.

It's not a hard job but fiddly.

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8 minutes ago, jgreg53 said:

The studs on my crank are up against the oil pan.  The manual calls for removing it. I don't know if I'm ready to do that. 

I did not have to remove my studs but pushed them in towards the engine.They did not come out. There isn't enough room for that to happen. It was a tight fit but I was able to wiggle the flywheel into place.

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When I removed the flywheel for refacing, the oil pan and rear crank journal cap had to be removed so the studs could be pushed forward and removed so the flywheel could be dropped from the bellhousing. There was no other way to accomplish this on my 218.

 

Yes, installing the flywheel is a bit of grunt work but I found the trick was to position a stud at the bottom of the crank flange so the flywheel could be hung on it until slipped fully into place on the crank flange. The nut was then started on the stud to prevent the flywheel from falling. Then it was just a simple matter of rotating the crank (remove the spark plugs!) until each remaining stud could be inserted at the "bottom" of the flange. As mentioned above, be absolutely positive the flat on the head of the stud inserts properly on the flange.

 

 

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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13 hours ago, jgreg53 said:

The flywheel by itself is a big enough problem.  Since it's indexed it only goes on one way. Laying on my back trying to hold it up to match the bolt pattern. Keep thinking I'm going to drop it on me. The thing weighs as much as a small piano. An old man's arms aren't  very muscular. 

LOL Yep exactly what I went through and I am 69 years old. Take your time and persevere with it. You will get there in the end.

BTW I had to do mine outside and jacked up the drivers side enough to get under the car. That's not much room and bumped my head several times not to mention the grease on my face and the laughter from my wife.

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3 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

When I removed the flywheel for refacing, the oil pan and rear crank journal cap had to be removed so the studs could be pushed forward enough for the flywheel to be dropped from the bellhousing. There was no other way to accomplish this on my 218.

I did not have to do this. My engine is a 230 with a 39 3 speed floor mounted shift transmission.

It was a very tight fit and seemed to only go on 1 way. Many times I got the flywheel stuck. It wouldn't go up or down. Unfortunately once I did get the flywheel in place and bolts and nuts on I had to remover it again. I can't remember why. So I got to fight the darn thing twice.

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27 minutes ago, Sniper said:

If a rope rear main isn't leaking let it be.  Never wake up a sleeping dog, lol.

Diddo Sniper, If it ain't broke don't fix it!

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I couldn’t find the alignment tool anywhere locally, seems to be a legacy spline. I left the pressure plate bolts loose enough to use the eyecrometer to get the disc aligned as close as I could. With the disc “floating” in the slack pressure plate I slid the tranny into place on the guide pins. Some wigglin’ and jigglin’ and it eventually slid home. The pressure plate bolts were then torqued.

 

 

transmission-8.jpg.1132afb0573d888a282e908af438f62a.jpg

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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8 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I couldn’t find the alignment tool anywhere locally, seems to be a legacy spline. I left the pressure plate bolts loose enough to use the eyecrometer to get the disc aligned as close as I could. With the disc “floating” in the slack pressure plate I slid the tranny into place on the guide pins. Some wigglin’ and jigglin’ and it eventually slid home. The pressure plate bolts were then torqued.

 

 

That works, but I prefer to torque them with the trans out then just have someone step on the clutch as I wiggle the trans in place.   Those alignment pins are key though

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I've never had a clutch alignment tool. I have always used my 'eyecrometer' to get it as close as possible before tightening down the clutch plate. Then when I slide the trans into the spline it'll get tight when it gets to the pilot bushing. I'll manipulate the clutch pedal linkage to release the clutch slightly, or have an assistant push down the clutch pedal, and the trans will slip right in. 

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I would have used the "clutch pedal" technique but don't have a helper and couldn't figure out a way to configure my limbs to where two hands were working the tranny while a foot was mashing the pedal......maybe I'm not creative (or flexible) enough!   ?

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Use a stick to hold the clutch pedal down...done it many times....

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6 hours ago, Sam Buchanan said:

I would have used the "clutch pedal" technique but don't have a helper and couldn't figure out a way to configure my limbs to where two hands were working the tranny while a foot was mashing the pedal......maybe I'm not creative (or flexible) enough!   ?

 

3 hours ago, SteveR said:

or young enough?!?

 

If I was young enough I probably would be messing with some sort of Japanese abomination instead of an old Mopar.......   ?

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7 minutes ago, Sam Buchanan said:

If I was young enough I probably would be messing with some sort of Japanese abomination instead of an old Mopar......

When I was young I always wanted to own an old car. Usually, you only saw old people driving them. I wanted to be different. Well, it didn't work out that way and I was able to buy my car when I was 65 years old. Now I am one of those old people driving around in an old car and feel like a teenager doing it!

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