Stock or Stovebolt?

[Bob Riding]

While I'm waiting on the machine shop to get back to me on what needs to be done to the 230 cid motor, I thought I'd experiment with carburetion. I will be using the larger "Power Pack" intake that came with the motor, which came from the factory with the 2bbl Stromberg WW carb, which @Loren really likes. I had earlier purchased Langdon's Stovebolt Weber clone 32/26 2bbl carb for another project, and it's still new in the box. Everyone who has installed the Langdon carb seems to really like it. I was trying to look up the CFM numbers for both to compare, but with no luck.  Assuming I did a clean and rebuild of the Stromberg, which carb would be a better choice? This will be used in my '40 Plymouth wagon - no racing, just regular driving. 

[Sniper]

Well. let's look at the pros and cons

 

Stromberg pros

 

Fits the intake no problem.

Linkage is probably compatible.

Stock air filter will fit

 

Stromberg cons

 

Tuning parts are hard to find.

It's used

 

Weber pros

 

It's new

Tuning parts are easy to find.

 

Weber cons

 

Linkage mods needed

Stock air filter won't fit

will it bolt up to the intake no problem?

 

That's off the top of my head.  The tuning issues may not apply if you don't bother to tune either.

 

I am running a pair of Weber IDA throttle bodies on my EFI conversion and I ended up making my own air cleaner that look more stockish than anything aftermarket.  You can see what I did on my website.  Something similar may work for you, if a stockish looking air clear is your thing.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/air-filters

 

[Bob Riding]

30 minutes ago, Sniper said:

Well. let's look at the pros and cons

 

Stromberg pros

 

Fits the intake no problem.

Linkage is probably compatible.

Stock air filter will fit

 

Stromberg cons

 

Tuning parts are hard to find.

It's used

 

Weber pros

 

It's new

Tuning parts are easy to find.

 

Weber cons

 

Linkage mods needed

Stock air filter won't fit

will it bolt up to the intake no problem?

 

That's off the top of my head.  The tuning issues may not apply if you don't bother to tune either.

 

I am running a pair of Weber IDA throttle bodies on my EFI conversion and I ended up making my own air cleaner that look more stockish than anything aftermarket.  You can see what I did on my website.  Something similar may work for you, if a stockish looking air clear is your thing.

 

http://www.yourolddad.com/air-filters

 

Great comparisons. I did have Tom Langdon cutout the bottom of my '52 stock oil bath air cleaner and fit it with a paper filter. It sits low on the carb. Linkage issues aside, what do you think about the differences, if any, about performance and reliability?

[maok]

Better would be the Weber 38/38

[Bob Riding]

1 hour ago, maok said:

Better would be the Weber 38/38

Interesting. Why not the 32/36?

 

[Sniper]

The only Weber carb I ever fooled with is the Edelbrock AFB copies (made by Weber).  Haven't fooled with a Stromberg since the 80's, so my advice there would be functionally useless.  That said. if the Stromberg is stock to the application and is in good shape I would probably have stayed with it.  But since you already sprang for the new Weber, I would run that instead.

 

Helpful aren't I?  lol

[Bob Riding]

34 minutes ago, Sniper said:

The only Weber carb I ever fooled with is the Edelbrock AFB copies (made by Weber).  Haven't fooled with a Stromberg since the 80's, so my advice there would be functionally useless.  That said. if the Stromberg is stock to the application and is in good shape I would probably have stayed with it.  But since you already sprang for the new Weber, I would run that instead.

 

Helpful aren't I?  lol

LOL. Yes, I only have the Langdon copy because I was going to put my 218 from the woody in the '52 Suburban I have in the works, but ended up getting a rebuilt Chrysler 360 for not much money and the Weber clone would be too small. I tend to get out ahead of my skis on parts buying, as I want to make sure i have what's needed so as not to slow down the rebuild...

 

[maok]

55 minutes ago, Bob Riding said:

Interesting. Why not the 32/36?

 

 

The 32/36 is asynchronous ie primary (32) opens first then secondary (36), works well for economy and low speed, the 38 is synchronous ie both barrels open together, it should work better for the 2 barrel manifold. I have only tried both on a single barrel manifold, I prefer the 38 weber.

 

Is that manifold for a 23" or 25"?  I'm searching one for a 25"

[Sniper]

1 hour ago, Bob Riding said:

I tend to get out ahead of my skis on parts buying

 

Oh no, none of us, especially me, would ever do that, lol.

 

 

[Bob Riding]

4 hours ago, maok said:

 

The 32/36 is asynchronous ie primary (32) opens first then secondary (36), works well for economy and low speed, the 38 is synchronous ie both barrels open together, it should work better for the 2 barrel manifold. I have only tried both on a single barrel manifold, I prefer the 38 weber.

 

Is that manifold for a 23" or 25"?  I'm searching one for a 25"

It's a 23"

[Loren]

Okay my 2 cents worth.

The Stromberg does not fit the single barrel air cleaner and the 1955-56 6 cylinders used a vastly different linkage system. The WW is simply a bigger carburetor.

As far as tuning parts are concerned they are probably easier to find than the Weber as they are roughly the same as Stromberg 97 stuff. Same jets, same jet wrench and I fitted 97 fittings to a pair of mine.

The 230 exhaust manifold has provision for the choke heater. They made a lot of WWs so kits are widely available.

On the Weber.

It has a progressive linkage as I recall and it might be easier to hook up to the stock single barrel linkage. The barrels are smaller and open first one then both. You will not be over carbureted and very likely get better mileage.

So there’s much to consider. Most importantly you have the Weber package and from where I sit it might be the path of least resistance.

I favor the Stromberg because I have had so much good luck with them. I personally don’t care for progressive linkage carburetors because they are a compromise in my book. When I stab the throttle I want things to happen. One race car I drove had a Weber and it had a nasty habit of running out of fuel at unpredictable and unfortunate times. My Strombergs never let me down like that.

I am all about the path of least resistance. The Stromberg maybe my ideal but if the Weber gets you on the road quickly and easily that’s the way to go. Besides you can always revisit the Stromberg later.

[Sniper]

Weber parts are super easy to find and there is a lot more options in regards to tuning.  Assuming you are going to tune the carb to the engine, otherwise it really doesn't matter.

 

The Weber does have an electric choke, that might not be useful on a 6v car?

[Loren]

Mike’s Carburetor may have a 6 volt choke that will fit. In point of fact I am not certain the existing choke wouldn’t work, its just a heater after all.

Since I’m not a fan of Webers I can’t speak to their parts situation.

I do know that jets, needle valves from 97s can be used on WWs. I put the fancy stainless banjo fittings on a pair of mine.

Any Supplier of Ford V8 parts usually has 97 parts & tools. The good ones are reproduced in England now, with bargain ones made in China, so parts are readily available at reasonable prices. When it comes to the WW I can’t think of many car brands that didn’t use them at one time or another.

I used them on 91 cid Ford/SAAB V4s and they came from the factory on 318s so they are very adaptable and tunable. I’ve even seen them on Mercedes 450SLs as a replacement for Fuel Injection!

I think there are no bad choices between the two in this situation. The car in question is not a race car and good fuel economy tip the balance to the Weber.

[Sniper]

I hadn't thought of a 6v choke, or that it might work as is.  Which is why I kicked out that list of pro's and con's hoping people would add to it.

 

I have no dog in this hunt, either way would be interesting.

[Racer-X-]

I haven't done a lot with Stromberg carbs.  So I can't speak to those.

 

Webers, I know about.   Been using and tuning them for years.  Most folks with a 6 cylinder over 3 liters/180 CI  go with the 38/38DGS.  The 32/36DGS is more common on smaller engines. 

 

One thing with the Webers, they pretty much have to have a fuel pressure regulator.  They like 3.0psi to 3.5psi of fuel pressure.  Over 4 psi and it can unseat the needle valve and flood the thing.   Mechanical fuel pumps work with them OK if you regulate them down to 3.25psi +/- 0.25psi.   They don't like pulses, though. There's an optional viton tipped needle and seat assembly that handles pulsed pressure from a mechanical pump (slightly) better than the brass needle and seat.

 

4 hours ago, Sniper said:

The Weber does have an electric choke, that might not be useful on a 6v car?

 

Good point about the electric choke.  It might work with 6V, I'm not sure.  The Weber can also be used with a manual choke, or a coolant loop automatic for the automatic choke.  And the choke pieces are available separately, so you can swap to a different setup if you need to.