'50 Dodge jack up car to remove exhaust manifold?

[52ismine]

Found a Dodge 4 door sedan, guessing a 1950, at a private junkyard. The drivetrain is still in the car and would like to pull the intake/exhaust manifold off as a spare for my '52 Plymouth. I believe from what I have read they will interchange. 

 

Problem is the car has settled quite far into the ground with no way to get a jack underneath. Can the intake/exhaust manifold be removed without getting under the car? 

 

Also this car has a clock, how rare is this clock? I know finding one (and paying) for one for my '52 Plymouth was something else.

[Doug&Deb]

There are 13 nuts holding the manifold on. One is a little difficult to access. If you can get into the engine compartment it should be possible.

[plymjim]

  Save the clock, save everything you can.

Pats for our cars get rarer every day.

 

 

[joecoozie]

Under "normal" conditions it is not necessary to jack up the car.

You can remove the intake and exhaust manifolds as one piece or split them and remove them separately, if you need or want to.

 

[plymouthcranbrook]

Try to avoid splitting the manifold if you can. A PIA to get them back together correctly.

[Young Ed]

Do not try to split the 2. Guaranteed one or 4 of the bolts holding them together will break and you then can't get them separated. Pull them together and then you can try to split as needed in a controlled shop environment. Usually requires lots of heat on the intake to get those bolts out.

[52ismine]

12 hours ago, plymjim said:

  Save the clock, save everything you can.

Pats for our cars get rarer every day.

 

 

 

 

I would but the stuff isn't free. 

 

$75.00 for the manifolds minus the carburetor. $50.00 for the clock in unknown working condition. Was also going to check and see if it had electric wipers. 

 

Plan on stopping by and spraying the nuts/bolts with PB Blaster and weather permitting try taking it off next weekend

 

 

[soth122003]

Lucky for you about the clock. A P-15 clock (1946-48 Plymouth) is about 600 to 800 dollars on ebay.

 

Joe Lee

[52ismine]

19 minutes ago, soth122003 said:

Lucky for you about the clock. A P-15 clock (1946-48 Plymouth) is about 600 to 800 dollars on ebay.

 

Joe Lee

It is in a Dodge. 

[rtferguson39]

It is not necessary to jack the car up to remove the intake/exhaust manifold assembly. Do attempt remove both manifolds as one piece. WARNING: the two lower exhaust manifold bolts between the ports for cylinders 2-3, and 4-5, (sometimes referred to as the "long bolts") will likely break during removal. The rust bond between the manifold and what is left of these lower "long bolts" can make manifold removal a chore; requiring heat, pry bars, and a BFH. 

As others have mentioned, make sure to remove the "hidden nut" behind the center intake port for cylinders 3 and 4. All the other fasteners are fairly visible. 13 total. 

 

Expect a minimum of three hours to remove these manifolds if this car has been sitting outside for as long as you describe it. 

 

[greg g]

The magic number is 13.  Exclusive of the 4 holding the manifolds together. 

[andyd]

BTW.......I have seen at least 3 different outlet exhaust manifolds..........an outlet between # 2 & 3 cylinders, another with an outlet between # 4 & 5 cylinders and a third with an outlet at # 7 cylinder.........admittedly these were all on RHD cars but I mention this purely for info.........and as mentioned by other you don't have to jack up the car but depending on how rusty the bolts/nuts are who know what joy you may have.........make a careful note of exactly what nuts and washers each stud has................good luck.........andyd  

[keithb7]

Good times. In theory it can be done without jacking up the car. Yet rust never sleeps. It will surely cause you grief. I sure like pulling the right front wheel off and removing the inner fender window.  Great access and visibility to every part to be removed. Also every piece hampering progress. 
 

[kencombs]

11 hours ago, andyd said:

BTW.......I have seen at least 3 different outlet exhaust manifolds..........an outlet between # 2 & 3 cylinders, another with an outlet between # 4 & 5 cylinders and a third with an outlet at # 7 cylinder.........admittedly these were all on RHD cars but I mention this purely for info.........and as mentioned by other you don't have to jack up the car but depending on how rusty the bolts/nuts are who know what joy you may have.........make a careful note of exactly what nuts and washers each stud has................good luck.........andyd  

I assume you meant nbr 6?    I've never seen the 2-3 version...    could be a candidate for making a pair of cheap headers.  one rear outlet, one 2-3 outlet and lots of nickle welding rod!

Edited October 19, 2022 by kencombs

[andyd]

Ken........actually I meant between # 5 & # 6........and yep the third version did indeed have its outlet at where a # 7 cylinder would have been .......the attached pic is of the headers I had welded up by a local blacksmith here in Grafton, NSW.......I cut the rear off an exhaust manifold that dumped between 2 & 3 and the front off a manifold that dumped between 5 & 6 and had the blacksmith weld the ends up...........as my car was RHD this was the only way I could get a twin outlet exhaust.........RHD cars with the brake & clutch pedals on the right side have the "pedal follow thru" where those Fenton/Langdon rear header lives and the Oz RHD steering box lives where the front Fenton/Langdon header resides........so this was my answer.....tho' I ended up selling the engine & car before it got installed..........this was a 230 ex Sydney airport tug engine...I had an Edgy Finned Head, 1/2 race cam, Offy intake with a pair of Oz Holden stromberg carbs, HEI dissy, Patricks finned valve covers & beehive oil filter.............miss it.....lol.......andyd    

[52ismine]

 

Car ended up being a '51 or '52. 

 

Got the manifolds off. Didn't break/twist off any bolts or studs. Thinking that spraying PB Blaster earlier in the week may have helped.

 

Thanks to all that chimed in on the total number of nuts and bolts. I never would have found the "hidden" one on the underside in the middle of the manifold. As mentioned it took a little over 3 hours, I think 1/4 of that time was trying to get that hidden nut off without being able to see it and when I did get my wrench on it only turning it a little at a time. If I could have removed the front tire and access panel it definitely would have been easier.

 

Left the manifolds together although 2 of the 4 connecting bolts were already broke but the castings seem to be in good shape. Once I got back to my shop squirted some home brew penetrating oil (ATF and acetone) on those bolts and the exhaust pipe flange nuts as I just cut the exhaust pipe below the manifold with a sawzall..

 

Good news, I thought the price was going to be $75.00 ($50 for the intake, $25 for the exhaust) but because they were bolted together as one unit I was only charged $50.00, the price of an intake manifold. I was even honest and pointed out there were 2 manifolds bolted together, but he still only charged me the $50.00.