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Disc Brake Kits


Frank Gooz

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Good evening to all,

 

How does one pick a vender? I have read in our forums about all the trouble and the misunderstanding. The solutions that all of you have come up with.

Also read all of the instruction from venders. But the bottom line for me is what about the Track, width.

I want my OE wheels, i do not want to have to raze my front end because my wheels stick out.

Can any of you shed some light on this PLEASE

 

Thank you

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Rusty Hope and Scarebird are the ones I’m familiar with. I have a Scarebird kit on my 52 Coronet and I’m very happy with it. A previous owner changed the wheels so I don’t know about the track width. I didn’t make any changes to my suspension. I’ve put almost 10,000 miles on with no issues so far. 

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I've been happy with my Scarebird installation on my truck. Lots of info on this site. I have better luck searching topics on Google such as "rusty hope p15d24" rather than use the search here. Be sure to do your homework and speak with the vendors before you decide.

 

 

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If you are going to be running stock rims and tires then the track width change really isn't an issue.  Plenty of room.  But if you are going to run P255/50R17's in the front it really matters.

 

I've detailed the issues on my Rusty Hope swap, not to ding on them but rather to give you the understanding of what the issues are are NOT addressed on the website or the instructions.

 

No personal experience with  Scare Bird though, but looking at the design I like that it does NOT change the steering arm to spindle mount.  It does require some machining to the stock drum hub, not really an issue for a competent machine shop, I'd suggest converting to wheel studs at the same time though.

 

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The reason I like using the rotor out of the front drums is because the width stays the same and you can still use the stock wheels, stock seals and bearings. It also makes doing a 4- wheel alignment much easier and the tracking stay the same. You will have to grind the rivets from the drums and drill out the bolt holes and install new studs, and also have rotor outer edge machined to remove about a 1/4 of a inch.

Happy motoring

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23 hours ago, Sniper said:

If you are going to be running stock rims and tires then the track width change really isn't an issue.  Plenty of room.  But if you are going to run P255/50R17's in the front it really matters.

 

I've detailed the issues on my Rusty Hope swap, not to ding on them but rather to give you the understanding of what the issues are are NOT addressed on the website or the instructions.

 

No personal experience with  Scare Bird though, but looking at the design I like that it does NOT change the steering arm to spindle mount.  It does require some machining to the stock drum hub, not really an issue for a competent machine shop, I'd suggest converting to wheel studs at the same time though.

 

 

I'm halfway done installing the Scarebird kit w/hubs on my '50 Plymouth. I don't really care about the track width but did have trouble getting the castle nut on far enough to insert the cotter pin. I bought a Dorman kit based on one of your old posts I found, which should solve the problem. I assume this means the track width increased by a tiny bit, assuming the same wheels and tires? The stock wheels just barely rub the calipers with a 1/4" spacer, so I guess I'm going to get new wheels (need new tires too). I don't really want to bother with grinding calipers and definitely do not want to try grinding the wheels. 

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