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Brake parts - shoe size?


dgrinnan

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Where are you getting brake parts?  I need brake shoes and possibly wheel cylinders.  I have a new master cylinder.  I tried Rock Auto, NAPA Online, DCM Classics, Autozone and PartGeeks.  No one list brake shoes.  NAPA Online did have front right and left wheel cylinders. 

 

I have a 1947 WC. 

 

A conversion kit for just the front to go to rotors and pads is $800.  

 

UPDATED: DCM has a rebuild kit for the wheel cylinder.  

 

UPDATED 9/13/22 - THIS JUST KEEPS GETTING BETTER AND BETTER.  I HAVE MY FRONT BRAKES TORE DOWN.  I AM REBUILDING THE WHEEL CYLINDERS AND FIND MY BRAKE DRUMS/HUBS ARE IN BAD SHAPE.  SO FAR THE ONLY OPTION I HAVE FOUND IS ON EBAY. NEW ONES ARE $450 EACH.  HAS ANYONE COME UP WITH ANOTHER SOLUTION OTHER THAT A DISC BRAKE CONVERSION WHICH WILL COST JUST AS MUCH. $800-$1,000. 

Edited by dgrinnan
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5 hours ago, kencombs said:

Related question:  anyone know of a shoe reline service that deals online?

Brake and equipment warehouse here in Minneapolis will do mail service relining last time I checked 

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15 hours ago, Young Ed said:

Brake and equipment warehouse here in Minneapolis will do mail service relining last time I checked 

If yours are riveted lining then reline them. It is an easy process and I do all of my relining for my 39 Desoto. You will have to know the specific lining number and then get the appropriate sized rivet and the rivet punch tool but then you have the shoes and you also learn more about your truck.

 

For what specific car or truck do you need brake lining. i have severalbrake catalogs and might beable to lok up the vehicle and provide you with the part number.

 

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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1947 WC - I just discovered the rear are 11" and the front are 10".  The reare clearly need removed with a hub puller.  What about the front?  Are they the same set up and need pulled with a hub puller?

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  • dgrinnan changed the title to Brake parts - shoe size?
On 9/6/2022 at 6:40 PM, dgrinnan said:

1947 WC - I just discovered the rear are 11" and the front are 10".  The reare clearly need removed with a hub puller.  What about the front?  Are they the same set up and need pulled with a hub puller?

Hubs on the front axle are held on by the nut on the spindle. remove cotter pin and nut and hub will pull off by hand if  shoes are not too worn or rusted. then tap with hammer around till loosened

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UPDATED 9/13/22 - THIS JUST KEEPS GETTING BETTER AND BETTER.  I HAVE MY FRONT BRAKES TORE DOWN.  I AM REBUILDING THE WHEEL CYLINDERS AND FIND MY BRAKE DRUMS/HUBS ARE IN BAD SHAPE.  SO FAR THE ONLY OPTION I HAVE FOUND IS ON EBAY. NEW ONES ARE $450 EACH.  HAS ANYONE COME UP WITH ANOTHER SOLUTION OTHER THAT A DISC BRAKE CONVERSION WHICH WILL COST JUST AS MUCH. $800-$1,000. 

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@dgrinnanI feel your pain ..... you will have the same problem with rear drums if needed.

Unless you can find some good used ones local .... shipping on them would seem costly because of weight.

 

I bought the rusty hope kit for my first project that I abandoned. I still have the kit.

It is about $250 or somewhere in that area .... It only consist of mounting brackets & hardware with instructions.

Then you buy the rotors, calipers, bearings ..... I think you will come in cheaper then $800 ... hard to say with today's inflation  :(

iirc the rotor/calipers are a 1975 Volare ... wheel bearings are a Ford F100 ..... just all common parts you can get from a local parts store and not rare or expensive.

Forgive me if I'm wrong on the rotors, been a few years since I've looked at the list .... point is the same, all easily available.

 

I have wondered about the scarebird kit, ... I think they are selling a service by putting all the parts together & delivering it to you ... Good on them they deserve to be paid for their effort.

What about replacement parts? Do you need to order a replacement rotor from scarebird in the future? Just a question I would ask, I do not know the answer.

 

Brake drums on old mopars are a issue. If you are doing a restoration, you pay the $1k & be happy there is someone out there reproducing them.

If you just want a driver and not a restoration I see 2 options.

1:, How bad are your current drums? How many miles per year will you drive it? .... Will you drive it through the winter? (depends on location)

Just asking if you can use them while searching for good used drums?

 

2:, Is a disk brake conversion where you put the problem behind you.

 

Keep it in the back of your mind, you will run into the same problem with the rear brake drums. .... Almost cheaper to do a rear end swap with modern brakes.

I bought a old 1949 dodge truck bed utility trailer just hoping it has good brake drums on it .... since they were not used as a trailer.

You need to be on the lookout for good used parts for your old car, thinking ahead.

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