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P15 Heater Options


Eneto-55

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My 46 Special DeLuxe Plymouth came with the MoPar Deluxe Model 36 heater.  But there is also a knock-out for a round hole in the dash board (firewall) that I assume was for some type of fresh air heater option.  Has anyone ever seen one installed?  Since my car was originally sold in Oklahoma (where it was always tagged until I hauled it to Ohio a few years back), I don't know if it had a heater from the start, or if it was installed later on.  That round hole knock-out (about 3" in diameter, I think, w/o going out & measuring it) was a bit buggered up, so I did a fiberglass patch over it back in the early 80's.  So it wouldn't be easy for me to put something through there on mine, but it's mostly a curiosity.

 

What other model heaters have you all seen in 'original' P15s?

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The two versions of the fresh air heater don't use that knockout either. The fresh air comes in via the cowl vent and ducting to either the right side or dual heater cores. My p15 came with the dual fresh air heaters.

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Thanks.  I wasn't thinking about that - my heater DOES also use the cowl vent for fresh air.  The only manual I have in original printed form is just called "Plymouth Service Manual", and it also covers the P17 through P20.  It does not include any mention or description of the P15 heater model I have, nor does it have anything about the P15 radio. 

All of the other manuals I have are downloads from this site, or xerox copies from my brother.  Even the one called "What's New About Servicing the new PLYMOUTH Model P15" has nothing about either of these topics.  Is there anything available that covers all of the options for the P15, or were each of these options (like the under-seat heaters) covered in separate documents?

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11 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

Thanks for the book reference.

 

I didn't mean about rebuilding or repairing the radio (or the heater), just that while my Plymouth manual has instructions for the other models (it covers P17 - P20) on how to R & R the radio, how to route the antenna, how to set the radio station buttons, that sort of thing - it says absolutely nothing about the radio.  Same on the heater.

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I've never seen info on the radio or the heater in a service shop manual.  The radio and heater had their own manuals and the radio one is much easier to find than the heater one.  The most common factory heaters on Mopars of that era are called Comfort Master.  I have that 3" hole on the left side of my cowl too on my 48 DeSoto.  I don't think you need it unless you buy another heater that uses it.  They did make a shop video on how to troubleshoot a car radio, which would be similar on your P-15.  https://mymopar.com/mtsc-1951-volume-4-7-automobile-radio-service/

 

Also you can get the schematic free at Nostalgia Air . com.  

 

comfortmas.jpg

Edited by MarcDeSoto
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Marc,

I listened to the Radio Diagnostics film strip, and took notes.  Also took some screen snips (photos), and will put it all together into a document I will keep in my files.  (I much prefer written instructions over videos - just a personal thing.)  There was at least one place where I wasn't sure I am correctly understanding what was meant - will have to find the exact minute & second, then will ask here for input.  A few parts are similar to what is in my Plymouth manual, but there is also a lot there I didn't know.  They do also refer to a "reference book", something that must have been distributed to all of the dealerships.  Wish someone would have a copy of that as well.

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8 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

if you like written instructions over filmstrips, that website MyMopar.com has all the booklets too.  https://www.mymopar.com/downloads/mtsc/043.pdf

 

I had logged onto the MyMopar site and tired to look around for other resources, but it blocks me, saying "You do not have authorization to view this page."

(I was able to follow your link to that exact download, and get it, but I can't look around at anything else.)

 

Edit 01:

Well, I had tried this the other day, and again earlier this morning, but now I tried again, and it let me through.  Not sure what was different.

 

Edit 02:

The thing about copying information out of the filmstrips is that one can cut out all of the extra "fluff" that is injected into the film strip (and judging from this example, also included in the PDF text version).  I like to have an organized list to read through quickly, w/o getting lost in the extra "conversation".  Just the way I'm designed, I guess.

Edited by Eneto-55
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I like the booklets too and know what you mean.  Like when you are in the garage working on your radio you just want the facts.  Not some customer saying, "If you guys think I'm going to drive all over town trying to get my radio fixed, you have another thing coming!"  But also like the filmstrips too.  So I guess you gained access OK now?  

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10 minutes ago, MarcDeSoto said:

I like the booklets too and know what you mean.  Like when you are in the garage working on your radio you just want the facts.  Not some customer saying, "If you guys think I'm going to drive all over town trying to get my radio fixed, you have another thing coming!"  But also like the filmstrips too.  So I guess you gained access OK now?  

Yes.  Not sure why I was blocked like that on Sunday afternoon, and early this morning, but it started working a bit later.  So I loaded all of the 1948 booklets, and just need to go through the process of downloading (now that I'm home from work).

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37 minutes ago, MarcDeSoto said:

There are also 1947 booklets, and some of the booklets from later years also pertain to your car.  Good luck.  I'm restoring my 48 DeSoto business coupe right now.

I listened to a bit of one of the 47 film strips.  Slow moving.  I guess we are impatient now-a-days....  I used to have a 62 Chrysler Newport, and I've thought of trying to adapt a turn signal system from that model to my 46 Plymouth.  So I downloaded the manual for that model, but the illustrations are not clear at all.  I know it takes a lot of time to do a good scan job - getting each page lined up so that each page isn't cocked to one side or the other.  Then there is the deal that the photos were half-tones, to prevent the darker parts from coming out all just plain black.  I have an old HP scanner I bought years ago, and it has a descreening process.  But the thing is, I have to set that for each separate scan.  It does get tedious.   But the result is really nice.  I can zoom in and out on a photo ('Figure', or 'Illustration') w/o it breaking up into a sort of grid, like when you look through two screens.   (My eyesight is not great at all, and it's nice to be able to zoom in, to see more detail.)  Anyway, the 62 turn signal control switch was on the dash, to the left of the steering wheel.  The signal cancelling system involved an electro-magnet (at the switch, if I recall correctly) and a trigger device with a switch mounted on the steering column well down under the dash.  I was thinking that using that would allow the turn signal switch to auto-cancel, and there wouldn't need to be a large device mounted up on the column behind the steering wheel.  (As you can probably tell, I get carried away with about everything.)

 

I have scanned the whole Plymouth manual I have with OCR (Optical Character Recognition), then proof read the whole deal, correcting scanning mistakes, spelling errors in the original printing, etc.  Now I'm scanning the Figures separately, because I will print them in a separate book.  This manual, at least, often has the illustration on a different page from the text referring to it.  So paging back & forth with dirty fingers....  My job now is with computers, so I tend to think in that direction.  I will have the text on one screen, and the illustrations open on another page - as two separate files.  Yeah, it's taking lots of time, more than I expected when I started this.  But then I didn't plan for doing this when I started, either.  The idea sort of developed, as I saw how the book is laid out.  (Not to be critical - I've done book design and layout myself, and it's not easy to arrange everything just as you want it, so as to not have large areas of white space just because you want an illustration or picture to be near the text that references it.)

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Here is the text copy from my Plymouth manual, dealing with Radio & Heater, pages 215 - 221

 

SECTION XIX 

ACCESSORIES

1. RADIO 

Model 604 and 806-807 radios are especially designed for Model P-19 and P-20 Plymouth cars, and Model 603 and 803 radios are especially designed for the P-17 and P-18 Plymouth cars. 
The Model 603 radio (Fig. 1) and Model 604 radio (Fig. 2) are equipped with five tubes, a rectifier and mechanical push-button tuning, while Model 803 and Model 806-807 radios (Fig. 3) have seven tubes, a rectifier and electric push­button tuning. On the eight-tube sets only, the off-and-on switch is combined with push-button operation. 

INSTALLATION OF RADIO AND ANTENNA 

Detailed instructions for installation are furnished with each radio and antenna package. Included in the radio instruction folder are directions for the push-button adjustments and generator noise suppression. 

Distributor Suppressor - On all P-17 Models and P-18 DeLuxe 4-Door Sedan and Club Coupe Models, and also some early production P-19 Models, a distributor suppressor must be used. 

Antenna Maintenance - For best radio reception, be sure to keep the antenna rod clean. 

<text box>
NOTE
A special radio grille package is required for all P-17 and P-19 Plymouth Model cars and the P-18 and P-20 Deluxe 4-Door Sedan and Club Coupe. These radio grilles replace the blank instrument panel plates in the instrument panels of these cars. The Special Deluxe P-18 and P-20 Models are equipped with radio grilles. 
<end text box>

RADIO ADJUSTMENTS 

MODELS 603 AND 604 

(a) Antenna Compensator Adjustment - Turn the radio ON and with dial set at approximately 14 (1400 kilocycles), the volume at full and the antenna fully extended, adjust the antenna trimmer on the bottom of the set for the maximum volume of a weak station, or background noise between the stations. 

(b) Setting Push-Buttons - Push buttons should be set up in the daytime, since weak station are stronger at night, and there is a possibility of setting a push-button on a distant station carrying the same program as the desired station. 

Turn radio ON and allow it to warm up for at least 15 minutes. Antenna should be fully extended and the tone control should be in high position. 

Pull off the chrome-plated push-button caps from buttons Nos. l, 2, 3, and 4, exposing the knurled metal buttons. Unlock the four push­button settings by turning each knurled button counter-clockwise about one turn. Never turn buttons more than two turns in a counter-clockwise direction. 

With the tuning knob, tune in the station to be set on the No. 1 button. Select only the best and most powerful local stations. While holding tuning knob, push in the No. 1 button as far as it will go and tighten the knurled button securely. Follow the previous instructions when setting the other buttons. 

When all buttons have been set, check to see if the stations can be tuned more accurately with the tuning knob. If so, unlock buttons and reset. A push-button may be set at any time by unlocking the push-buttons, tuning in a new station and resetting. Replace push-button caps when job is completed. 

MODELS 803 AND 806-807 

(a) Adjustment of Manual Tuning Antenna Compensator - Push in the Dial button and tune in a weak station near 1400 kilocycles with the manual control (right hand knob). Using a small screw driver, adjust Manual Tuning Antenna Compensator for maximum volume. 

(b) Push-Button Adjustment - First, select the best stations for electric tuning buttons. Pull off the electric tuning button covers. Push in Dial button and tune in station selected for No. 1 button, making sure it is within the range - 840 to 1600 kilocycles. 

<text box>
IMPORTANT
Before attempting adjustments, make sure radio has been operating for 20 minutes. Make certain antenna is fully extended. The stations may be set up accurately with the volume control set at maximum and the tone control set for Voice. For best results in metropolitan areas, it is recommended that the push-buttons be set up in a shielded place where signals are weak, such as under a viaduct, or in a steel-constructed building. 
<end text box>

Push in the No. 5 button. Pull out the knurled end of the button and turn it to either right or left to tune in the station already tuned in with the manual control. Turning the button counter­clockwise will increase the frequency and turning button clockwise will decrease the frequency. Check station by pushing in Dial button again to identify the program. Do not attempt to force the button beyond its normal stopping point. 

(c) Adjusting Push-Button Antenna Compensator - Adjust this compensator for maximum volume with button No. 5 pushed in. To set up buttons Nos. 1, 2, 3. and 4, proceed in like manner. 

<text box>
NOTE
The stations may be set up before installing radio in car, but FINAL adjustment must be made with antenna installed and after radio has been operating for 20 minutes in car. 

<end text box>

Adjust Antenna Compensator on No. 5 push­button only. 

Replace push-button covers with detented side toward retaining spring on the plastic core. 

REMOVAL OF RADIO CHASSIS 

To remove radio chassis, disconnect antenna lead-in at radio (On Models 603 and 604, antenna lead-in receptacle is at the back of the set, and on Models 803 and 806-807, antenna lead-in receptacle is located at the right side of the set.) 

Disconnect the battery lead wire at the fuse holder. Separate the pilot light lead at the bayonet type connection on Models 803 and 806-807. Then, remove four grille mounting screws in face of grille and two grille mounting bolts at bottom of grille. Remove nut and bolt from mounting bracket on cowl vent brace at rear of set. Pull chassis out of front of instrument panel. 

2. HEATERS 

Three types of MOPAR All-Weather Comfort System Heaters, (Models 100, 300, and 550), are available for the Models P-17, P-18, P-19, and P-20 Plymouth cars. See Figures 4, 5 and 6. The heater radiator core and blower motor are concealed under the hood with the air outlets and controls inside the front compartment. The Model 550 heater has a separate defroster blower motor mounted inside the front compartment. The amount of heated or unheated air admitted to the car can be completely controlled. 

Knockout sections have been provided to eliminate the need for drilling or cutting sheet metal when installing MOPAR heaters. Defroster outlets are built into the windshield garnish moulding at the bases of the windshields to facilitate heater installation. 

Model 100 - An input of fresh air through the fresh air intake is necessary for the operation of this system. When the Air-Off button on the control panel is pushed in, fresh air enters the system. When the Air-Off control button is pulled out, the air intake is closed. 

Fresh air is forced through the system by a motor-driven air fan operated by the push-pull Air Fan switch control button. 

In the heating unit is a radiator core through which hot water flows from the engine. A valve, operated by the push-pull Temp Control button, controls the amount of hot water flowing through this radiator core. When the Temp Control button is pulled all the way out, the maximum of hot water flows through the radiator core, and the maximum amount of heat is available for distribution in the car. When the Temp Control button is pushed all the way in, no hot water flows through the core, and no heat is available for distribution in car. 

As fresh air passes through the radiator core in the heating unit, it is heated if the Temp Control button is pulled out. If the Temp Control button is pushed in, the fresh air is not heated. 

The heated or unheated fresh air then passes to the distribution outlet inside the car, from which point it is circulated throughout the car. A damper in the distribution outlet diverts heated or unheated air through the defroster outlets onto the windshield. The damper is operated by a push-pull defrost control button. 

Model 300 - The flow of hot water from the engine through the heater core in this system is controlled by a Water Shut-Off Valve located on the rear of the cylinder head. The valve should be fully opened in winter or whenever heat is required, and closed in summer. 

Outside fresh air enters the system through the fresh air intake. Fresh air is forced through the system by means of a motor driven air fan that is controlled by the push-pull Air Fan Control button. 

The two dampers in the heating unit are operated by the Fresh Air Temperature Control lever. These dampers direct the passage of the fresh air through the heating unit. When the lever is in the Off position, the air inlet is closed. As the lever is moved from the Off position to the On Cool position, fresh air passes through the heating unit without being heated. The amount of unheated fresh air entering the car in this manner can be regulated by adjusting the lever to any desired position between the Off and On Cool positions. 

When the lever is moved from the On Cool position to the Warm position, heated fresh air comes from the heating unit. The temperature of this heated air can be regulated by adjusting the lever to any desired position between the On Cool and Warm positions. 

The heated or unheated fresh air then passes to the distribution outlet inside the car, from which point it is circulated throughout the car. 

A damper in the distribution outlet diverts heated or unheated fresh air through the defroster outlets onto the windshield for defrosting or defogging purposes. This damper is operated by the push-pull Defrost Control Button. 

Model 550 - Outside fresh air enters the system through the fresh air intake. Air is then forced through the system by means of a motor­driven fan controlled by the Air Fan knob. 

An automatic valve controls the amount of hot water passing through the heater radiator core. This valve is operated by a thermostat, which may be set for any desired temperature by means of the Temperature Control lever. This provides a controlled temperature within the car, depending upon the setting of the lever. 

The two dampers in the heating unit operated by the Fresh Air lever, control the passage of fresh air through the system. In the Off position, no air can enter the system. In the Summer position, fresh air passes through the unit without being heated. In the Winter position, the fresh air passes through the heater core so that heated air emerges from the heating unit. 

The heated or unheated fresh air then passes to the Distribution Duct inside the car, from which point it is circulated throughout the car. 

The defroster motor and blower fan forces heated or unheated air through the defroster outlets onto the windshield. The defroster fan is controlled by the Defroster Fan knob. 

INSTALLATION OF HEATERS 

Detailed instructions for installation of heater and adjustment of controls are furnished with each heater package. 

HEATER BLOWER MOTOR 

Replacement - Remove the radiator upper dust shield by removing six screws. Disconnect wires to heater motor. Remove the heater motor mounting bracket and clamp. Remove the three screws on blower housing and remove heater motor. See Figure 7. 

DEFROSTER BLOWER MOTOR (MODEL 550 ONLY) 

Replacement - Disconnect wires to defroster blower motor. Disconnect defroster hose. Remove three defroster blower mounting stud nuts and remove the defroster blower motor. See Figure 8. 

HEATER CORE 

Replacement - Drain cooling system. Disconnect heater to dash transfer duct at the fire wall. Disconnect two heater hose connections and the remote control bowden wire. Disconnect hold-­down straps at front and rear of heater box and remove heater box. Disassemble heater box and remove heater core. 

After installing heater core, duct, and above connections, fill cooling system and make sure all hose connections are tight. Examine for leaks. Then, check heater and defroster controls for proper operation. 

HEATER DAMPERS AND AIR CABLE 
(MODEL 300 and 550) 

Adjustments - IMPORTANT: Place air control lever on control panel in WINTER position. Back off heater damper adjusting rod as far as possible. Set the outer damper lever on the heater unit in WINTER position. 

Be sure both ends of control cable are securely clamped. Place control wire in damper lever swivel clamp, and with pliers holding the end of the wire, pull all slack out of wire. Then, while pressing the damper lever firmly in WINTER position, lock the wire in swivel clamp. This closes damper on outside of heater. 

Tighten adjusting rod to a point where it has slight tension. Then, secure it in position with lock nut. This opens the damper on the engine side of heater and holds it against a stop. 

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