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Scarebird ECONOMY Disc Brake Conversion


jfish
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1 hour ago, jfish said:

$320 may not be a bad price to pay. I will have to get a quote from my machine shop to compare.

 

I suspect a machine shop would charge far more than that to make a pair of hubs from scratch. Scarebird's vendor no doubt just loads a CAD file into their machine and hits "Start".........

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As best I can figure it, the econo kit requires the original hub to be machined down a bit to allow the rotor to slide one.  Not that your machine shop has to make a new hub. 

 

I would probably convert to studs as well at this point.  Those two options ought to be less than new aluminum hubs.

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I assumed jfish was talking about having a machine shop build a pair of hubs like Scarebird offers. Maybe he was saying he was going to get a quote for modifying his hubs.........I might have mis-read his post.

 

I do agree that having a machine shop press in new studs while cutting down the old hubs would be the best way to modify them instead of using bolts with unknown yield strength.

Edited by Sam Buchanan
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On 7/18/2022 at 4:37 PM, grea235 said:

I saw the hubs.   I'm passing on them for now.  I'm going to go with my own hubs and not stud them unless I absolutely have to.  I assumed that they had to get studded for clearance, but apparently not.  I can trim down the hub flange.  I have the economy DGE G30 coming.  I asked for the install guide and they emailed it to me.  Ordered all Raybestos off of Rock auto.  179 for everything including shipping.  Don't need the dust caps.  Calipers are rebuilds and the picture shows pins as well.  We'll see.

 

If it helps anyone, this is what they listed for the DGE G30:

 

Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor  1993-96 Ford Probe front 4886318 BD125274 96318(R)
Caliper, LH 1979-85 Cad. Eldo front SE4680 TQM25048 RC5248
Caliper, RH 1979-85 Cad. Eldo front SE4679 TQM25049 RC5247
Brake Hose (15”)* 1979 Seville front 36845 F98912 BH36845
Brake Hose (17”)* 1979-82 El Dorado front 36959/36960 F98914/98914  BH36959/3696
Brake pads 1983-92 S10 4WD TS7070AM MX154 EHT154
Dust cap 1983-2010 Ranger 2WD NAPA 735142      Dorman 618-503

Two points here:

 

The old hubs are pretty thin near the edge so I was able to cut down the OD with a grinder in about 20 minutes.

 

I bolted the wheel, probe rotor and old hub together using the lug screws I had. 

The old lug screws were a few threads short of full engagement in the hub.  Newer lug screws I had from Andy Bernbaum fully engaged the hub's threads.

Will attach a picture later.

 

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9 minutes ago, jfish said:

Two points here:

 

The old hubs are pretty thin near the edge so I was able to cut down the OD with a grinder in about 20 minutes.

 

I bolted the wheel, probe rotor and old hub together using the lug screws I had. 

The old lug screws were a few threads short of full engagement in the hub.  Newer lug screws I had from Andy Bernbaum fully engaged the hub's threads.

Will attach a picture later.

 

Here is the picture.

The Bernbaum lug screw is on the right. What's left of a rivet is in the middle and an old lug screw is on the left.

front wheel hub in Probe rotor.jpg

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Thank you!  I will absolutely check that once I get the hub turned down.  I believe I have all the parts and the correct attitude.  I'm going to check the master cylinder for the residual valve and since I have to drain it anyway, I'm plumbing in the in-line 2/10 valves.   I should be starting on it next weekend.

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On 7/31/2022 at 10:38 AM, grea235 said:

Thank you!  I will absolutely check that once I get the hub turned down.  I believe I have all the parts and the correct attitude.  I'm going to check the master cylinder for the residual valve and since I have to drain it anyway, I'm plumbing in the in-line 2/10 valves.   I should be starting on it next weekend.

This is what you're looking for.  I removed the rubber portion and reinstalled the metal part, no other valves added.  Did it in the car..

 

 

1-1-8-master-cylinder-kit-Dodge-Plymouth-DeSoto.jpg

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31 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said:

This is what you're looking for.  I removed the rubber portion and reinstalled the metal part, no other valves added.  Did it in the car..

 

 

1-1-8-master-cylinder-kit-Dodge-Plymouth-DeSoto.jpg

  Did that last weekend on my conversion.  That metal cup is two pieces with the rubber RPV inside the two.  They come apart, if you put a small punch inside one of the holes you can see in the picture and tap, then move to the hole directly opposite and tap some more you can separate the two metal pieces and remove the RPV.  Then reassemble the two metal pieces and reinstall.  I think that is also a stop for the piston so I didn't want to leave it out.  If it turns out I need more volume I will pull it.

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Good news.

My wheels clear the disk brakes!

The 15" long Cadillac Seville hose fits OK and you can get it on Amazon if you search BH36845 for $12.

Sorry the pictures are sideways but there does not seem to be any way to fix it.

1522482369_scarebird13.jpg.13de9aae9b52b1c8a3ad23e8ef6121ac.jpg1784463706_scarebird16.jpg.8c4e1a280c2fa695a3f5e6ffdaa39780.jpg

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This is on the agenda for me this weekend.  I appreciate the insights and options you've all presented.  The clarification on the residual valve dissassembly was really helpful.

 

In addition, I'm replacing the rear brake hose and lines.

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