Sam Buchanan Posted July 23 Report Share Posted July 23 1 hour ago, jfish said: $320 may not be a bad price to pay. I will have to get a quote from my machine shop to compare. I suspect a machine shop would charge far more than that to make a pair of hubs from scratch. Scarebird's vendor no doubt just loads a CAD file into their machine and hits "Start"......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted July 23 Report Share Posted July 23 As best I can figure it, the econo kit requires the original hub to be machined down a bit to allow the rotor to slide one. Not that your machine shop has to make a new hub. I would probably convert to studs as well at this point. Those two options ought to be less than new aluminum hubs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sam Buchanan Posted July 24 Report Share Posted July 24 (edited) I assumed jfish was talking about having a machine shop build a pair of hubs like Scarebird offers. Maybe he was saying he was going to get a quote for modifying his hubs.........I might have mis-read his post. I do agree that having a machine shop press in new studs while cutting down the old hubs would be the best way to modify them instead of using bolts with unknown yield strength. Edited July 24 by Sam Buchanan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfish Posted July 31 Author Report Share Posted July 31 On 7/18/2022 at 4:37 PM, grea235 said: I saw the hubs. I'm passing on them for now. I'm going to go with my own hubs and not stud them unless I absolutely have to. I assumed that they had to get studded for clearance, but apparently not. I can trim down the hub flange. I have the economy DGE G30 coming. I asked for the install guide and they emailed it to me. Ordered all Raybestos off of Rock auto. 179 for everything including shipping. Don't need the dust caps. Calipers are rebuilds and the picture shows pins as well. We'll see. If it helps anyone, this is what they listed for the DGE G30: Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos Rotor 1993-96 Ford Probe front 4886318 BD125274 96318(R) Caliper, LH 1979-85 Cad. Eldo front SE4680 TQM25048 RC5248 Caliper, RH 1979-85 Cad. Eldo front SE4679 TQM25049 RC5247 Brake Hose (15”)* 1979 Seville front 36845 F98912 BH36845 Brake Hose (17”)* 1979-82 El Dorado front 36959/36960 F98914/98914 BH36959/3696 Brake pads 1983-92 S10 4WD TS7070AM MX154 EHT154 Dust cap 1983-2010 Ranger 2WD NAPA 735142 Dorman 618-503 Two points here: The old hubs are pretty thin near the edge so I was able to cut down the OD with a grinder in about 20 minutes. I bolted the wheel, probe rotor and old hub together using the lug screws I had. The old lug screws were a few threads short of full engagement in the hub. Newer lug screws I had from Andy Bernbaum fully engaged the hub's threads. Will attach a picture later. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfish Posted July 31 Author Report Share Posted July 31 9 minutes ago, jfish said: Two points here: The old hubs are pretty thin near the edge so I was able to cut down the OD with a grinder in about 20 minutes. I bolted the wheel, probe rotor and old hub together using the lug screws I had. The old lug screws were a few threads short of full engagement in the hub. Newer lug screws I had from Andy Bernbaum fully engaged the hub's threads. Will attach a picture later. Here is the picture. The Bernbaum lug screw is on the right. What's left of a rivet is in the middle and an old lug screw is on the left. Sniper 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grea235 Posted July 31 Report Share Posted July 31 Thank you! I will absolutely check that once I get the hub turned down. I believe I have all the parts and the correct attitude. I'm going to check the master cylinder for the residual valve and since I have to drain it anyway, I'm plumbing in the in-line 2/10 valves. I should be starting on it next weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted August 1 Report Share Posted August 1 On 7/31/2022 at 10:38 AM, grea235 said: Thank you! I will absolutely check that once I get the hub turned down. I believe I have all the parts and the correct attitude. I'm going to check the master cylinder for the residual valve and since I have to drain it anyway, I'm plumbing in the in-line 2/10 valves. I should be starting on it next weekend. This is what you're looking for. I removed the rubber portion and reinstalled the metal part, no other valves added. Did it in the car.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grea235 Posted August 1 Report Share Posted August 1 Thank you. It's on the list! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted August 1 Report Share Posted August 1 31 minutes ago, Adam H P15 D30 said: This is what you're looking for. I removed the rubber portion and reinstalled the metal part, no other valves added. Did it in the car.. Did that last weekend on my conversion. That metal cup is two pieces with the rubber RPV inside the two. They come apart, if you put a small punch inside one of the holes you can see in the picture and tap, then move to the hole directly opposite and tap some more you can separate the two metal pieces and remove the RPV. Then reassemble the two metal pieces and reinstall. I think that is also a stop for the piston so I didn't want to leave it out. If it turns out I need more volume I will pull it. Adam H P15 D30 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam H P15 D30 Posted August 1 Report Share Posted August 1 Exactly ^^^^^^^ Easy to disassemble / reassemble so no need to leave the metal part out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfish Posted August 5 Author Report Share Posted August 5 Good news. My wheels clear the disk brakes! The 15" long Cadillac Seville hose fits OK and you can get it on Amazon if you search BH36845 for $12. Sorry the pictures are sideways but there does not seem to be any way to fix it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
grea235 Posted August 5 Report Share Posted August 5 This is on the agenda for me this weekend. I appreciate the insights and options you've all presented. The clarification on the residual valve dissassembly was really helpful. In addition, I'm replacing the rear brake hose and lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfish Posted August 7 Author Report Share Posted August 7 Getting closer to the end. Made the mounting plate for the Wilwood MC. Will do the spacer tomorrow. Sniper 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jfish Posted August 8 Author Report Share Posted August 8 A sketch to show how I am mounting the Wilwood MC behind the original MC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sniper Posted August 8 Report Share Posted August 8 Someone took drafting in HS, good work jfish 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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