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Scarebird ECONOMY Disc Brake Conversion


jfish
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Now if you want a Scarebird kit to convert your P15 to disc brakes only the ECONOMY kit (DGE 30) is available.

The main thing here is that you don't get those nice aluminum hubs.

You must reuse the hubs from your brake drums.

First photo shows grinding the heads off the rivets that hold the hub to the drum. I then drilled the rivets a 3/16" deep and the hub fell out.

1610262738_scarebird8.jpg.3960f0b3cea09f7bedc14650c36e1ce6.jpg

Don't forget to buy new seals for the inner hub bearings. The old one will be destroyed when you remove them.

Next photo shows the passenger hub. To fit this into the rotor Scarebird specifies you must reduce the hub diameter to about where the red line is drawn.

1787752539_scarebird7.jpg.6d8940da409dfbf074fcc6c122c611f7.jpg

 

The next problem is getting studs for your hubs.

 

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The passenger side hub is easy to adapt to studs.

I used 1/2-20 button head screws 2" long as shown here. I will loctite them in place. Buy a set of 1/2-20 lug nuts also.

73854161_scarebird6.jpg.3fa8a4b3b30e4c5b108122d18410ec80.jpg

The driver side is more of a problem as the threads in the hub are left handed. Finding left handed studs or threaded rod is very difficult.

The next picture shows the 10 bosses on the back of the hub.

I am going to drill out the rivet bosses and tap them for 1/2-20 Right handed threads and use the button head screws like the passenger side hub. 

The rivet bosses are on the same 4.5" bolt circle as the original threads and spaced just the same.

1346383187_scarebird9.jpg.301489bbac1c0c9755308c5e2ceade0d.jpg

 

 

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1 hour ago, jfish said:

I am going to drill out the rivet bosses and tap them for 1/2-20 Right handed threads and use the button head screws like the passenger side hub. 

The rivet bosses are on the same 4.5" bolt circle as the original threads and spaced just the same.

 

Clever solution, looks good.

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Your solution seems best. Another option for replacing a 1/2-20 thread is to go up slightly with an M14x1.5 metric thread. The tap drill size is 0.500" so it cleans out the old thread and metric lug nuts are readily available. I measured my original wheels and the lug holes will accommodate the 14mm size. I stumbled on this because I wanted to run chrome lug bolts on my '51 Chrysler and they are not available in 1/2-20 but Audi runs a lug bolt in the metric size.

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I like the direction your going (disc) but I'm reminded when I was a young guy and did this to my front drums on a 38 Dodge pickup (which I still have) only I used grade 8 bolts with no locktite.  I Changed the rears on my 50 to accommodate the mags, I drilled the holes out and pressed lug bolts in. 20190627_132400.jpeg.09dfaa45cab7ff478e5007187ee2c8f4.jpeg

20190627_182453.jpeg

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On 7/15/2022 at 6:57 PM, moparfun said:

Oh yea the lugs I used were doorman 610-446

 

So with these studs, you just drilled out the threads with 1/2 and pressed them in? Just confirming.  I ordered the econ kit and the only thing I'm pondering is the stud situation.

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Make sure you measure the smallest portion of the knurl on the lug bolt so you can drill out your hub for a tight fit when you press it in.

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2 hours ago, Doug&Deb said:

It’s a shame that he’s not supplying the hubs anymore. My kit was much easier to install and should the need arise I still have the original parts. It was truly a bolt on.

 

I must have gotten one of if not the last of the full kits for my P15:

 

https://p15-d24.com/topic/58096-scarebird-disc-brake-conversion-p15/#comment-625750

 

Yes, it is nice to be able to keep the original parts intact even though I have no intention of reverting back to the drums. If a machine shop is hired to drill and install the studs and machine the diameter of the hubs, and new bearings and seals are purchased the economy kit may end up costing more than the 'full' kit.

 

disc-conversion-1.jpg.4aff2618b69cdc83d4b19d23a60d076d.jpg

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So, maybe a stupid question on this one.  My kit is older and uses Diplomat rotors.  But I am considering discs for my truck.  Why could one not use the factory lug bolts instead of studs?  Might be a little more nuisance when lining up the wheels to put them on, but could this work?

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10 hours ago, nonstop said:

Might be a little more nuisance when lining up the wheels to put them on, but could this work?

 

Having just done that lining up with past weekend, it's a PITA.  Especially with oversized tires, like P255/52R17's.  If you swap in a rotor it'll have to line up as well.  Someone mentioned making an alignment stud to screw into the threaded hole to help.  Great idea, until I priced LHT bolts in the 1/2-20 size, very expensive,

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I saw the hubs.   I'm passing on them for now.  I'm going to go with my own hubs and not stud them unless I absolutely have to.  I assumed that they had to get studded for clearance, but apparently not.  I can trim down the hub flange.  I have the economy DGE G30 coming.  I asked for the install guide and they emailed it to me.  Ordered all Raybestos off of Rock auto.  179 for everything including shipping.  Don't need the dust caps.  Calipers are rebuilds and the picture shows pins as well.  We'll see.

 

If it helps anyone, this is what they listed for the DGE G30:

 

Part Application NAPA Wagner Raybestos
Rotor  1993-96 Ford Probe front 4886318 BD125274 96318(R)
Caliper, LH 1979-85 Cad. Eldo front SE4680 TQM25048 RC5248
Caliper, RH 1979-85 Cad. Eldo front SE4679 TQM25049 RC5247
Brake Hose (15”)* 1979 Seville front 36845 F98912 BH36845
Brake Hose (17”)* 1979-82 El Dorado front 36959/36960 F98914/98914  BH36959/3696
Brake pads 1983-92 S10 4WD TS7070AM MX154 EHT154
Dust cap 1983-2010 Ranger 2WD NAPA 735142      Dorman 618-503
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Looking at this as a possible conversion for Jacquiline. 

 

My question.  Does the kit come with Disks and calipers or are you expected to buy them seperately?

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This is what's in the 'kit':

 

PLY G30 brackets

(2) 9/16 x 3” HHCS

(2) 9/16 x 2-1/2” HHCS                                           

(2) 9/16 x 1-3/4” HHCS

(6) 9/16 hex nuts                                                     

(6) 9/16 lock washers                                             

(2) Metric Banjo bolts                                              

(2) Cotter pins

(2) Hose locks

 

Everything else has to be purchased separately.

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I put a brand new stock replacement master cylinder on my 47 DeSoto  with the Scarebird kit . I removed the valve from the master cylinder as recommended and added an inline 2 lb residual valve to front brakes and 10 lb inline to rear which are drum .  The brakes work very well . 

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8 hours ago, junkers72 said:

I put a brand new stock replacement master cylinder on my 47 DeSoto  with the Scarebird kit . I removed the valve from the master cylinder as recommended and added an inline 2 lb residual valve to front brakes and 10 lb inline to rear which are drum .  The brakes work very well . 

Dang...ok cool, thanks

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Just ordered the disc kit for my '50 Plymouth, along with the aluminum hubs. I'm planning to replace the master cylinder with a 70s Mustang dual chamber unit, year tbd. I think I'll try gutting the stock m/c and extending the pushrod to the new one, as others have done here. I figure if you're going to upgrade the brakes you might as well do the master as well. My $.02 

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