Jump to content

Picking a paint store. Auto Color Library?


MarcDeSoto
 Share

Recommended Posts

I've been using a brand named "Starting Line".  Wife found a set on-line after I casually mentioned that my old pressure pot gun wasn't up to snuff any more.  Not that it wasn't, I just didn't want to use it.  I don't remember the vendor, but we bought an HVLP set with three gravity feed guns, one for primer, one for finish, and a smaller one for touch-up work.  All three work very well for my skill level.  Don't recall the price, but it was under $100 for the set.  I'm persnickety with cleaning and maintenance on them, so I just had to dust them off for this last job after they had been unused for about 5 years.  I keep them in an airtight 20mm ammo box, which probably helps.   

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 

17 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

Yes, I'm thinking of buying the gun that Brian showed in the video.  A Devilbiss GTI Pro LIte.

Found one on Amazon

 

Edit Another Chinese manufacturer using the same model name.

Edited by OUTFXD
Link to comment
Share on other sites

21 minutes ago, Dan Hiebert said:

I've been using a brand named "Starting Line".  Wife found a set on-line after I casually mentioned that my old pressure pot gun wasn't up to snuff any more.  Not that it wasn't, I just didn't want to use it.  I don't remember the vendor, but we bought an HVLP set with three gravity feed guns, one for primer, one for finish, and a smaller one for touch-up work.  All three work very well for my skill level.  Don't recall the price, but it was under $100 for the set.  I'm persnickety with cleaning and maintenance on them, so I just had to dust them off for this last job after they had been unused for about 5 years.  I keep them in an airtight 20mm ammo box, which probably helps.   

That's a DeVilbiss entry level set.  Very good  guns for the money.   Harbor freight pricing with the weight of a big name behind them.  Good choice IMHO.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

A web search for the Devillbiis GTI-- comes up with quite a few choices and reviews. Watch of course for the real ones!!

 

If you plan to go that way do some due diligence as the price is not cheap just if wll cared for will most likely outlast you and beyond.

 

DJ

Link to comment
Share on other sites

purchasing a spray gun can be a significant cost but one can limit his outlay a bit by shopping a bit and of course there is always the alternate source, and the spray gun is a 'tool' and so buy the best you can afford and with reasonable care most will last a lifetime.  Flea markets, pawn shop, yard sales and the estate sales.  One does need to know about certain brand names and be able to recognize the gun in front of him if shopping alternate source.  I have a number of quality guns here, mainly Devilbiss, Binks, Sharpe and couple Badger air brushes in the mix.  This thread brought up the question, where are all my guns...placed away when I went conventional to HVLP.  A number of these quality guns were not properly cleaned and cup had paint residues in them.  But most were 3-5 dollars with the lightly used Binks 7, a whopping cost of 10.00 with all the accessories still in the original box and also spare nozzle and cap.  I dug them out, 4 were as stated bought and laid aside needing cleaned.  I disassemble and deep cleaned 8 of the pictures 13 sprayer the other evening.  These all shoot very well. The HF purple is for shooting acid only, bought new at yard sale for 3.00  As with many tools I post of, never overlook the alternate sources as your costs can be much much less out of pocket.  An abused gun can be detected visually for the most part and signs of droppage and or use of improper tools/techniques to take apart and such will show immediately.  You can invest about an hour if super cleaning is needed and have a quality brand name gun for next to nothing.  Paint cups are readily available new in aluminum or plastic and inexpensive if say the cup is really dinged up or beyond reasonable time to clean.  As always, these deals rarely drop into your lap as you sit on the couch, but getting out and about, you can easily score.  I see good spray guns at pawn shops and flea markets and especially estate sales all the time.  

 

 

 

IMG_0235.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

acid is as it states, but to be more direct, this is the application of 55% phosphoric by means of the spray gun onto a large item...the last use was the van box of the Morris Minor LCV I am building.  I sprayed the box inside, out and beneath with acid...this was done in two applications.  The acid NEVER harms solid metal as it reacts only with oxide...the acid is truly a rust eraser when used properly.   I did not really take a lot of pics of this....but here are few before acid...after acid and then the primer...

 

 

 

 

IMG_2786 - Copy.JPG

IMG_2789 - Copy.JPG

IMG_4113 - Copy.JPG

IMG_4122 - Copy.JPG

IMG_4123 - Copy.JPG

IMG_4133 - Copy.JPG

IMG_4184 - Copy.JPG

 

IMG_4335 - Copy.JPG

IMG_4336 - Copy.JPG

IMG_4337 - Copy.JPG

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

acid is as it states, but to be more direct, this is the application of 55% phosphoric by means of the spray gun onto a large item...the last use was the van box of the Morris Minor LCV I am building.  I sprayed the box inside, out and beneath with acid...this was done in two applications.  The acid NEVER harms solid metal as it reacts only with oxide...the acid is truly a rust eraser when used properly.   I did not really take a lot of pics of this....but here are few before acid...after acid and then the primer...

 

Only time I have used acid to remove rust was for small parts that were easy to thoroughly rinse. How do you assure all the acid is neutralized, especially in the nooks and crevices, before you start applying primer?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I might ask why many folks buy etching 2K primer....

 

NOTE...as an added and an apology to Tod for my question back....but there are a ton of white papers one can default to if interested.  To go into this would require me to write a paper that is already out there for the looking and reading when found.  I will not take that time to write and post such an in-depth reply.

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.

Terms of Use