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Picking a paint store. Auto Color Library?


MarcDeSoto
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4 hours ago, Loren said:

I too am going to paint my own car.

If you want to pay for PPG paint you can get a perfect match. However they are ridiculously expensive.

 I have decided to use Summit Racing’s single stage acrylic urethane paint. You won’t get exact matches to factory colors but the price and ease of use puts them in the running.

My last project used the primer materials from Summit and a color match from PPG. The professional who did the job is who specified the materials and worked out great!

 I did use a paint supplier in San Diego for one project and found their stuff hard to get good results.

 I like the simplicity of the Summit paint and the price. If you’d like to compare go to their website, it’s very reasonable.

From the reviews I’ve read they say the paint has a good shelf life but the hardener should be used within one month after opening. So buy the paint you need and the hardener you think you will use.

I looked at Summit and it looks good except I don't think they match old car paint chips like Auto Color Library.  Maybe I should just go to my local paint store and have them eye match my paint.  They don't sell acrylic enamel, but they do sell urethane and another type of paint with less gloss I think.  I used the other kind of paint for my primer surfacer.  It used an acetone and another solvent blend that was California approved.  

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8 hours ago, Los_Control said:

I wish others would stop beating up on @MarcDeSoto ... because at one time he was a autoshop teacher.

First thing to remember .... when was the last auto shop teacher used in America?

 

Marc has some principles and trying to apply them ..... His teaching skills was 50 years ago. .... I'm more concerned with the young photo they use in the avatar.  ....

 

 

Just incredible how wolves will dive in at a post . Not actually ask why it is important. 

 

My son took auto shop 2 years ago.  It's still a thing here.

 

I don't think anyone is beating up on Marc, just warning him off a course that will cause him grief.  No one here can better advise him on the paint he wants to use better than the supplier, which is why several of us have told him to talk to them in regards to what he wants and how to get there. 

 

 

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9 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

I looked at Summit and it looks good except I don't think they match old car paint chips like Auto Color Library.  Maybe I should just go to my local paint store and have them eye match my paint.  They don't sell acrylic enamel, but they do sell urethane and another type of paint with less gloss I think.  I used the other kind of paint for my primer surfacer.  It used an acetone and another solvent blend that was California approved.  

 

Two points....

 

You need to consider using the same paint system as the primer you applied. Be sure you research how the top coat should be applied over the primer in regard to surfacing and timing. You may need to reshoot and/or sand the primer to get good adhesion.

 

People don't 'eye-match' anymore.  :)  The paint shop can point their magic gun at your old paint and the computer will come up with a match.

 

Now....we've criticized acrylic enamel a bit in this thread but my P15 was most likely painted with acrylic in the late 80's when the engine was rebuilt. When I bought the car three years ago I buffed it with 3M compound then waxed it and the old finish rejuvenated quite nicely....not bad for 35 years. There are some spots that are degrading a little but overall the old paint has held up pretty well. Of course the key to longevity is keeping the car garaged.

 

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Edited by Sam Buchanan
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9 hours ago, MarcDeSoto said:

Los Control, thanks for the generous post and dating my teaching to 50 years ago!  I truth, my Auto Shop and Auto Body shop teaching was in the 80s and was only for a year.  It helps to have experience as a Marine D. I. if you are going to be a high school shop teacher!  A teacher at the high school I was at drove his 64 Mustang in to have his wheel bearings greased.  I asked him, are you sure you want to leave it here?  He did.  I assigned four guys to it.  Next thing I noticed one boy was on top of each of the four fenders jumping up and down to see if they could get the car to bounce!  I spent most of my time as a Language Arts teacher.  In the 80s, urethane paint was known as Imron, and was mainly used on semi trucks and hot rods.  I admit that I'm not up to snuff about today's paint systems.  If it's really true that acrylic urethane and acrylic enamel have the same gloss, I might prefer the acrylic urethane.  I've read that it is easier to apply.  Maybe I should start out with a quart and test it out before diving in whole hog?  

Imron was and is a polyurethane and extremely tough.  Used on airplanes, trucks etc.  Also extremely toxic, more so than the later stuff.  I have about 2 qts of black left from some past job.  It's getting used on certain parts of my pickup.  Clutch and brake masters, seat frame, running boards etc.  Maybe rear fenders if I decide I like the black fender look on a Viper Red truck.

 

This post is more to clarify my post on gloss.  I specified with hardener, for the acrylic.  Without that is wi.lll have a lower gloss, but without the other benefits the hardener provides.

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@MarcDeSoto  Hello Marc, I recently painted my 56 panel with acrylic enamel and hardener (won't say which brand to avoid controversy) with Nason acrylic urethane clear.  Painted a few cars like this over the years with good results.  It has the 'enamel' look I think you're after with the resiliency of the urethane clear.  I used an inflatable booth and had good results.

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Right out of the booth

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After cut and buff

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Not the "wet" look of urethane but a nice enamel shine look.

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arrest me red........!

 

Not sure his color but a very sharp red is the GM victory red.....I have painted two vehicles that color to the customer's delight...one was picked by the customer, the other the guy asked me to chose the colors for his vehicle.....he originally wanted all red, bumpers grille running board etc etc....I asked to let me break it up a bit with a bit of gloss black, argent silver and of course the white for the tailgate letters.  Oh and he also loved my idea of the Mopar steering column and wheel.  First shot sitting in my booth then moved to the orchard for few more pics.

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Here is the color I've purchased for my truck.  It's on it's original vehicle in this pic, Viper Red.image.jpeg.13676d6735b6d4659eba80dfd982d473.jpegBrighter than the Victory, which may be more appropriate for a old truck but at least it's of Mopar origin.  But I like bright.

 

Sorry for the thread hijack, Marc.

About the earlier mismatch of same color, different purchases.   If at all possible buy all the paint at once.  If it's in more than one container, mix them all together before painting.  In my case I have 6qts, in two separate gallon cans.   I'll probably put the first coat on everything, then mix the remaining for the last  coats.

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2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

with all due respect that looks like the very red on my DODGE TRUCK....

 

 

 

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Monitors are notorious for not showing colors accurately, but to my eye the Viper shade is a tad more orange.  I saw Viper at the Corvette museum last spring.  That's where I decided on my color chose.  In that lighting is was lighter, brighter and orangier than any other Mopar I've seen in real life.

l'll know for sure in a few weeks when I start shooting some parts and pieces.

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Someone said that he thought there was no difference in gloss between acrylic enamel and acrylic urethane.  Maybe he is right, but I went to my local paint store and looked at samples.  They had a strip of metal showing the same color in polyurethane, acrylic urethane, and acrylic enamel.  The first was WAY too glossy unless you have a hot rod.  The second was also too glossy.  And the acrylic enamel looked right for an old car if you are going for an original look.  What bothers me about Auto Color Library is they only sell a wet look hardener.  They say they are all about restoring old cars, so why would they only have a wet look hardener?  I wonder if I can just buy the paint and buy a normal harder elsewhere?  The other choice to spray it with no hardener.  

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lol....for sure on colors.....long ago when I got my first Porsche everyone was so hot on Gaurds Red.....personally I did not loke the color for under street lights wit faded to a distasteful orange for sure.  The best thing was my original color was Bahia Red and when I refinished the car I shot that color using DuPont Centari...drove the cars for a few years....sold it....28 years later got it back. Long story but the outer paint was faded from the southern sun as it sat outside.  The inside panels are still a vibrant red.   For sure, there a million shades of red and on many cars it screams....ARREST ME....!!  The red on the truck is actually Flame Red....I had just reworked the front right fender in that picture...word to the wise...if a guy says he will spot you while backing...

 

DON'T BELIEVE IT.......

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Marc - If you're willing to experiment a little on a test panel, you could try a product called "Japan Dryer" with acrylic enamel.  I use Valspar hardener with the acrylic enamel I shoot, also thinned with acetone.

The Japan Dryer should reduce the gloss a little

Edited by Adam H P15 D30
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1 hour ago, MarcDeSoto said:

Someone said that he thought there was no difference in gloss between acrylic enamel and acrylic urethane.  Maybe he is right, but I went to my local paint store and looked at samples.  They had a strip of metal showing the same color in polyurethane, acrylic urethane, and acrylic enamel.  The first was WAY too glossy unless you have a hot rod.  The second was also too glossy.  And the acrylic enamel looked right for an old car if you are going for an original look.  What bothers me about Auto Color Library is they only sell a wet look hardener.  They say they are all about restoring old cars, so why would they only have a wet look hardener?  I wonder if I can just buy the paint and buy a normal harder elsewhere?  The other choice to spray it with no hardener.  

Were the urethanes cleared or single stage.  Huge difference.   Although you can get clears flattened to your taste.   What I’m saying is the samples you see can be tailored to your specs.  Ask them for samples of reduced gloss.  

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My car is being finished in Concept by PPG. I find it gives a nice gloss which is not overpowering and also a very durable product. The black on my car's body shows flawlessly. Pricey paint system though but WTH, It's going on something pretty special car-wise! M

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I went ahead and bought the Auto Color Library acrylic enamel with the wet look hardener.  I figure I can at least try it out.  I'll report back after I get it about two weeks from now.  

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Hey Marc,

Ive painted a few cars in the past couple of years. Perfect paint jobs? Nope. But, I learned lots and had fun doing it.  And that's why I mess around with old cars to begin with..to learn stuff and have some fun. Go for it. It wont be a perfect car...it 'll be your car.

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As I told you, I picked a color a couple of days ago at Auto Color Library and ordered it.  I picked a color that was very close to the original grayish blue on my DeSoto.  But it was from a 42 Nash color chart, and called Strato blue.  After looking at color chips from a 42 Dodge folder, I began to second guess myself, so I called ACL to see if I could cancel my color choice.  No, it's just been mixed. I saw that the Strato Blue has a touch of green in it. So, I did something I should have done before finalizing my choice.  I went to Home Depot with my color chips and had them make $6 color samples.  They made my choice of Strato Blue and a 42 Dodge, DeSoto color called Bombardier Blue.  It's called Iris Blue in the DeSoto chart and Sky Blue in the Plymouth chart.  Sergio liked that color, but I thought it might be a little too bright.  It's a pretty color, but not sure if I want pretty on my car.  I used the latex paint to make big cardboard samples to hold up to the car.  It's better than just looking at color chips.  If I decide I don't like the Strato Blue, I might use it to practice with on junk fenders and boxes and then order another color.  Still not sure.  The cowl and the hood are about ready for paint, so I might try it out on those pieces to make a judgement.  Strato blue is on the left and Bombardier Blue is on the right.  Marc.

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Marc I do not envy you.

A lot of agonizing.

My problems are much simpler. I live at the beach, there’s a lot of fog and rain and I have to do something fast or a very nice original car is going to rust away!

I don’t want to get involved with a complex paint system, I just want to stop the rust.

I used to live in Northern Nevada and I go there often which is where Summit Racing has a warehouse, so it’s a natural for me.

Low price, easy to use and best of all limited choices!

I so glad I am not going through what you are.

In 1949 Plymouth had 2 grey colors, one light and one dark.

The oxidized grey on my car matches the only non-metallic grey Summit offers. Simple!

It does not match the original color found in out of the way places….but who will know?

If it is shiny it will be a major improvement.

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Being from the land of rust and winter, rust removal and prevention comes second nature. Look into Glass Shield primers specifically their EP Guard 1761 which according to their website boasts heavy anti corrosion qualities, I am using EP Guard 1500 with lots of success. They also make compatible polyurethane top coats in full and semi gloss finishes. KBS Coatings may also offer some solutions. They have a great rust neutralizing system that I have also used with beautiful results.  Hope this helps M PS I also live on the water but freshwater air does not have the corrosive capabilities as the salty costal mists do.  

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I bought a new Harbor Freight “surface preparation” tool and was grinding away on the hood. I was very surprised when I saw paint under the rust!

It seems that where the paint gets thin the rust flows over the top of the surface.

I wondered why the horizontal surfaces were getting this “carpet-like” texture.

In dry climates the metal rusts where the paint goes away. In wet climates it flows over the remaining paint and expands.

 

My next problem is getting it off the stainless steel trim. Can it be buffed?

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As far as the stainless goes, you can buy a polisher with cotton wheels and compounds for this purpose. But careful! This process is not for the faint of heart or inexperienced since you can ruin a rare stainless trim part in a microsecond! It is best not to cheap out on this process and leave it to someone that does this on a daily basis. As far as the rust you are finding, it must be neutralized, especially in your location. I lived in Colorado and with the dry air out there, even 60s era muscle cars were mostly free of corrosion. The virtues of a dry climate... M

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On 7/7/2022 at 1:46 AM, Marcel Backs said:

My car is being finished in Concept by PPG. I find it gives a nice gloss which is not overpowering and also a very durable product. The black on my car's body shows flawlessly. Pricey paint system though but WTH, It's going on something pretty special car-wise! M

 

Single stage PPG Concept is a superb paint. I've painted an airplane, a truck and a VW with Concept and gotten excellent results. It cuts and buffs very nicely which is a big bonus for this amateur painter.  :)

 

But the price increase of all the components over the past decade or so is breathtaking..............

 

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Edited by Sam Buchanan
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