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Radiator out - suggestions?


Dan Hiebert

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The radiator in our D24 gave up the ghost.  Kind of a bummer, but not really a surprise, it's the original one that I've only had out once to clean and paint when we first got the car, 30 years ago.  Regular PMCS (you Army guys remember that one?).  Anyway, I've pulled it and will take it to a good radiator shop down in Bangor next week.  It'll probably take a while to get it back, so I'll poke around while it's conveniently out for stuff to clean, paint, repair, etc.  Nothing's obviously amiss, but I want to take advantage of the elbow room.  Any recommendations from this sage group on things to attend to?

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1 hour ago, Dan Hiebert said:

The radiator in our D24 gave up the ghost.  Kind of a bummer, but not really a surprise, it's the original one that I've only had out once to clean and paint when we first got the car, 30 years ago.  Regular PMCS (you Army guys remember that one?).  Anyway, I've pulled it and will take it to a good radiator shop down in Bangor next week.  It'll probably take a while to get it back, so I'll poke around while it's conveniently out for stuff to clean, paint, repair, etc.  Nothing's obviously amiss, but I want to take advantage of the elbow room.  Any recommendations from this sage group on things to attend to?

I don't know how common it is for the harmonic balancer to get sitting crooked, but mine is, and I'm going to have to pull the rad for the 87.9th time to get at it, and send it out for rebuild. Might be a good idea to take a look at it and make sure it's spinning without wobble.

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Since the radiator is out of the car also a good time to check the front moto mount. If it even look a little compressed or even hard then replace it now it is easier to replace now then when the rad is back in the car and also more room to bolt the unit to the support.

 

lso since the radiator is out check all the welsh plugs onthe driver side of the motor now that the water has been drained. Might consider replacing with Brass plugs and cleanout the ports of any crap.  More work but since the engine is down do it now while the rad is being repaired.

 

Also clean off the face of the block where the water pump gasket goes against the block to make sure it does not have any leftover gasket. I had a saml piece of gasket still onthe block and it leaked so took it all apart and found the left over peice of gasket. I also apply slight layer of greas to hold the gasket inplace and to also makean additionall seal on the block and the backing plate of the water pump.  If you can get a WP that has the sealed bearing instead of the fiber seal then also suggest changing the WP It will last longer. If you go to the Sealed WP then you might have to pull one of the mounting studs so that you can install the sealed pump becasue of the thicker water pump body.

 

Also change out the WP hoses while everything is apart also check the curved water return tube that connects to the bottom of the radiator.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

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In my case the timing marks were virtually unreadable, so now is the time to clean those up and mark them well.

 

I would suggest replacing the block and radiator drain valves with something you can put a hose on when draining, eliminate a mess maker.  You know I cannot remember what NPT size they are.  Anyone?

 

Maybe clean up the front of the engine is it needs it.

 

Edited by Sniper
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It sprung a pretty good leak along the top of the core on the passenger side.  FWIW, I'm a bit in awe of a repair that had been done sometime before we got the car, which is what I always expected to give out first.  It had been in an accident and the radiator pushed into the fan.  The repair was/is uglier than a mud fence but does not leak or hinder cooling.  I've always overlooked it because it didn't affect performance and was hidden by the fan, didn't remember it being so unsightly until I got the radiator out.  So, I'll probably get it re-cored and prettied up.  I'll miss the nice honeycomb, but I'll get over it.

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9 hours ago, Sniper said:

I would suggest replacing the block and radiator drain valves with something you can put a hose on when draining, eliminate a mess maker. 

 

Good idea, but someone beat me to it.  Both already have petcocks that I can easily stick a piece of garden hose on.  The one on the radiator looks original.

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8 hours ago, Dan Hiebert said:

We'll see.  If it's gonna be a grand in these parts, I'll be surprised...and start looking for a replacement.

That's how I felt. When I broke my already cracked exhaust manifold, I replaced it with $300 something new dual headers, about the cheapest option.  If I had to replace my radiator and originals were too expensive, I'd go for a modern one.  Want to keep everything original but I'm not going for prizes at a show.   Probably just driving around for fun. 

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I took my rad to the rad shop for a full rebuild. Re-core. Paint. Test etc. 

 

Pre-insanity. 3 years ago. The cost was about $250 USD.  While rad is out, if you don’t know the history of the water pump and distribution tube I’d say go for it. New belt too. While the belt is off, how’s the generator performance been? No better time. 

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I haven't had issues with cooling at all.  It's actually hard to get the car over 160 most days up here.  I'm prone to say the water pump is "new" but have to remind myself it was about 30 years ago that I replaced it, just haven't had any issues at all with the cooling system (other than this recent leak).  The generator was rebuilt about 25 years ago, no problems with that, but I'll pull it, check tolerances, and clean it up.  I've already flushed the block, lots of brown water and some rust scale.  Flowed clear water after about 5 minutes.  I'm hesitant to pull the distribution tube, since that'll probably destroy it, and I haven't had any cooling problems in the first place.  Of course, with my luck, all this TLC might make it decide it wants more attention.

 

Roger that on new rubber components.  They all still look good, but the 30 years old reminder is pinging.

 

Still have to do a good clean-up on the front of the block, then paint as needed, and remark the balancer.   

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  • 4 weeks later...

Drats!  The radiator shop can't get the parts to repair our original radiator any time soon.  It has to be recored.  There is also a "header", which is what he called the piece at the top of the core / bottom of the top tank, that was the primary source of the leak and has to be replaced.  That is the part he can't get.  There is a place that manufactures cores here in Maine that will make one, but it is several months out, and I didn't even bother asking what the price for that would be, since they had already estimated about $1600 before that part needed replacement.

 

So, I know a few of you have installed aluminum aftermarket replacements and have had no issues.  I haven't found any specifically for Dodge, but there are some for Chrysler that have the right measurements, so I'll go down that road.  I'm not overly concerned with originality, but will keep watch for an original replacement.  I imagine that after a while I'll barely notice a "wrong" radiator in the ol' D24, as long as we can keep driving it.     

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Dan,

 

Did you try American Honeycomb Radiator in Bowdoin? He worked on the radiator from my 1939 Plymouth at a fair price.

 

American Honeycomb Radiator

Pete

 

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I've replaced radiators before (my truck) with universal type.  Matter of upper and lower hose positions and sizes, thickness, height and width of the radiator and type of side metal flanges.  Would think you could easily adapt flat metal to flat metal. Some have different layers of cores.  I'd love to keep it original but I'm not paying a ransom if I can help it.

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I've got a good original 46-48 Dodge radiator that I just spent $195 on at the radiator shop, so it's good to go.  I thought it fit my 48 DeSoto, but it doesn't.  Has original cellular core and everything.  $550.  

 

 

 

 

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On 6/19/2022 at 4:28 PM, Dartgame said:

if you dont mind non original parts look at a champion radiator. all new Aluminum unit, cools perfectly in my car and inexpensive. Paint it black and be happy...

I used to be picky about that, then decided I'd rather drive the car that fret over originality.  Of course, I still get a kick out of making original stuff work.  I've ordered a Champion unit, should be here tomorrow.

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On 6/18/2022 at 10:05 AM, Pete said:

Dan,

 

Did you try American Honeycomb Radiator in Bowdoin? He worked on the radiator from my 1939 Plymouth at a fair price.

 

American Honeycomb Radiator

 

 

Pete

 

I had not heard of them.  I've got a new aluminum unit coming, but would still like to do something with the original.  I'll give them a call, thanks!

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Also in Maine (albeit down here in Waterboro), is Sanford Radiator. They have been in business for many, many years and have done 3 WWII jeep, and one 1979 CJ5 radiators for me. Antique trucks, cars, gas tanks...they do it all. Going to have him check my 4 extra Ford Model A radiators before I offer them for sale. Very reasonable and experts at their trade.

 

Sanford Radiator

1061 West Rd.

Waterboro, ME 04087

207) 247-6250

Tony Wolfinger owner

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7 hours ago, slatgrille said:

Also in Maine (albeit down here in Waterboro), is Sanford Radiator. They have been in business for many, many years and have done 3 WWII jeep, and one 1979 CJ5 radiators for me. Antique trucks, cars, gas tanks...they do it all. Going to have him check my 4 extra Ford Model A radiators before I offer them for sale. Very reasonable and experts at their trade.

 

Sanford Radiator

1061 West Rd.

Waterboro, ME 04087

207) 247-6250

Tony Wolfinger owner

Thanks, I'll give them a call as well.  The shop I went to in Bangor has been in business over 90 years and has a stellar reputation as well, but still has the northern Maine (although we up here in The County don't consider Bangor "northern") supply stigma attached, which is nothing new.  I'm game for taking the original downstate if we ultimately decide we have to have an original radiator, good opportunity to explore. 

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On 6/18/2022 at 8:32 PM, MarcDeSoto said:

I've got a good original 46-48 Dodge radiator that I just spent $195 on at the radiator shop, so it's good to go.  I thought it fit my 48 DeSoto, but it doesn't.  Has original cellular core and everything.  $550.  

 

 

 

 

P1020974.JPG

P1020970.JPG

Sending you a PM

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The aluminum unit I ordered did not fit right.  All the measurements were good, but where the holes were in the brackets made it rest directly on the radiator support.  Not good, especially with aluminum vs. steel.  I'd say back to the drawing board, but I scored that Dodge radiator from MarcDesoto.  I had called the two places you'uns referenced, worthy businesses but both estimated a bit north of $1500 to fix mine, and one is a three hour, the other a four hour drive from here.  I don't mind road trips and the cost, but not if I could get a good radiator for half that.  So that worked out well for both me and Marc.  Still won't make Independence Day weekend festivities with the Dodge, but at least we'll have it back on the road this summer.  I realized the other day that this is the first time in 30 years we haven't had the ol' Dodge out yet.    

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Interesting, I put an aluminum radiator in my 51, fit fine.  No issues.  I made that choice because I didn't want to spend the beaucoup dollars getting my original redone would have cost.

 

Could you have used rubber to isolate the radiator?

 

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