'48 Windsor - solenoid now in bits, questions!

[Chris-R]

Evening all...

So I've stripped down the switch end of the starter solenoid... now I have questions.
 

1) The soft black parts have degraded and fallen apart as per the first two pics below - are these simply rubber/plastic washers that have been crushed over the years, and thus can they be replaced with new washers of a correct size? (What size/thickness would that be?)

2) Third pic down is the copper disc that bridges the two terminals to complete the starter circuit when the solenoid fires. Does this look good to go after a clean back to shiny metal? It's a little bit pitted, but not too bad I think...

3) If I clean up all the internals should I put it back together dry, or would it appreciate some sort of electrical-friendly lubricant such as WD40 spray or some sort of grease? It's pretty gungey in there currently suggesting it was lubricated with something.

4) The solenoid plunger (no pic, sorry) itself seems in good condition and slides freely. I'll wipe it over and re-grease it before re-installing, but there's a rubber gaiter missing from that end of solenoid that's supposed to cover the exposed end of the plunger and the shift lever - has anyone any tips on making something up to replace it? (Assuming such things are unavailable from the parts store!)

Any other advice that springs to mind, please let me have it. I haven't too much idea what I'm doing here... 
Thanks!


 

[Chris-R]

Here's the plunger end - with missing gaiter.

[ratbailey]

 

1) Those are soft rubber insulating washers. I made new ones out of bike inner tube.  

2) I'd get that sucker a little cleaner. Hit it with CRC electrical parts cleaner and compressed air. Dirt is the enemy of electrons.

3) I'm no expert, but I wouldn't put any lube in there, I don't believe it's necessary since there's no real moving parts. I avoid using WD40 around electrical stuff. I notice you're missing a cork gasket that the cover presses against, which keeps it sealed, and dry and clean inside. That's why it's probably grungy in there, especially if oil from the filter has been dripping on it for years. You might want to get some very thin cork or foam rubber gasket material, and make a new one. It should fill up the indented area in your third pic.

4) I made sure the plunger and cylinder on mine was scrupulously clean, using brake cleaner and scotchbrite on the piston, and lubed it a little with dielectric grease, though I'm not sure it's necessary. I was careful not to get solvent in the hole, to keep it away from the enamel insulation on any windings I couldn't see.  I cleaned the cylinder out with solvent on a rag, and compressed air. There's a tapered rubber boot that's supposed to go over it. As far as I know, there's no replacement, so I tried using one from a Chevy starter. It ripped to pieces pretty quickly because it wasn't long enough. You're going to have to hunt for one meant for another purpose, or make one. With no boot, dirt will mix with grease and make grinding paste. 

Edited May 19, 2022 by ratbailey

[Chris-R]

14 hours ago, ratbailey said:

 

1) Those are soft rubber insulating washers. I made new ones out of bike inner tube.  

2) I'd get that sucker a little cleaner. Hit it with CRC electrical parts cleaner and compressed air. Dirt is the enemy of electrons.

3) I'm no expert, but I wouldn't put any lube in there, I don't believe it's necessary since there's no real moving parts. I avoid using WD40 around electrical stuff. I notice you're missing a cork gasket that the cover presses against, which keeps it sealed, and dry and clean inside. That's why it's probably grungy in there, especially if oil from the filter has been dripping on it for years. You might want to get some very thin cork or foam rubber gasket material, and make a new one. It should fill up the indented area in your third pic.

4) I made sure the plunger and cylinder on mine was scrupulously clean, using brake cleaner and scotchbrite on the piston, and lubed it a little with dielectric grease, though I'm not sure it's necessary. I was careful not to get solvent in the hole, to keep it away from the enamel insulation on any windings I couldn't see.  I cleaned the cylinder out with solvent on a rag, and compressed air. There's a tapered rubber boot that's supposed to go over it. As far as I know, there's no replacement, so I tried using one from a Chevy starter. It ripped to pieces pretty quickly because it wasn't long enough. You're going to have to hunt for one meant for another purpose, or make one. With no boot, dirt will mix with grease and make grinding paste. 

I might try an inner tube... I was thinking of trying to put a ring of sealant in there instead as the primary function seems to be waterproofing the bolt apertures, but that always gets messy. Strangely, I've found a rubber boot in my box of bicycle bits that looks as if it will fit, or it could be a boat bit... anyway, fingers crossed!