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I sure could use a pic and some measurements.  My running boards are in bad need of repair.  The attachments on the bottom are completely gone.  And there is a hole, or series of holes in the upper surface. 

 

I Plan to cut away all the perforated and thin metal  I think that will leave a hole about 6x24 which will be filled with some 16ga stainless that is on hand. 

 

What I'm missing is the placement and dimensions of the support and attaching rails.  I think it had a 'hat' section channel on the bottom with captive nuts which received the bolts from the bottom up through the frame brackets.  That's just a guess as all that is gone!

 

On the bright side, there are no bends in either of them.  with a good patch and maybe a glued on rubber pad to hide the lack of dimples, it should look OK.

 

But it would be easier if I had proof that my guess right along with the dimensions.  I think  that the channel used to mount electrical and plumbing with captive nuts may work.  If so it would save a ton of fab work.

Edited by kencombs
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Not sure if this will help much,

D-126 Running Boards.....

 

2004334866_D-126RunningBoards1197-751.jpg.68c1fcc4b8ed3b0162619f6cfa6304dc.jpg

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I think welding 50k steel to the sheet metal should be adequate and a lot easier than trying to get a decent bead with stainless.
Maybe it would be easier to put the running boards on after the bed and front fenders for alignment purposes so ya don't paint yourself into a corner.

additional information - 1955 C1B Build Thread

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Pics are little dark but I think they confirm my guess.   I plan to clamp them down to my work table while welding.  That and skipping around rather than solid beads should minimize the warpage. I’ve used some of my stainless stash for floor, fender, and cab fixing’ with normal wire.  Not to bad.  At least not something my grinder can’t fix.  You know what the say about welders an grinders!

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23 minutes ago, kencombs said:

Pics are little dark but I think they confirm my guess.   I plan to clamp them down to my work table while welding.  That and skipping around rather than solid beads should minimize the warpage.

 

 

Yes, sorry those were scanned slide photos from the 80's when I bought them and all's I could access from the cloud.

Now at home here are some photos of them 'mounted' only on each end at this point.

 

Meant to do this when I got home last night but got busy

 

20220517_164726_1600x1200.jpg.d8d5c9ab7c3f82c628cd86d34adc5aa6.jpg

 

20220517_164749_1600x1200.jpg.787f2366b385476c26cb13a9a9132e20.jpg

 

20220517_164759_1600x1200.jpg.0da32b1fe8a4a6b825b92ed123afb6e1.jpg

 

20220517_164809_1600x1200.jpg.73d40333223e0caaa31125c6f7a6ae54.jpg

 

20220517_164821_1600x1200.jpg.c3d639055b48f742f137f63a2cee8363.jpg

 

20220517_164903_1600x1200.jpg.07817cf496a61f6beb51556bb6e70ff5.jpg

 

20220517_164955_1600x1200.jpg.aade417a0145900815bdd8e9c6ecc84a.jpg

 

 

Edited by billrigsby
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@kencombsI would post any info I can give you ... I removed my running boards on Monday ..... I have a 1949, no idea what they may share in common.

I will share any photos or measurements you want .... 1956 - 1949 we are talking several years difference. 

Just ask if you think I may have something of value.

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5 hours ago, billrigsby said:

 

 

Yes, sorry those were scanned slide photos from the 80's when I bought them and all's I could access from the cloud.

Now at home here are some photos of them 'mounted' only on each end at this point.

 

Meant to do this when I got home last night but got busy

 

20220517_164726_1600x1200.jpg.d8d5c9ab7c3f82c628cd86d34adc5aa6.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Excellent!  those pics are exactly what I needed and they look like what was expected.  Those hat channel pieces are completely gone on mine.  Completely.  Someone in the past has simply laid a couple of 1 1/4" wide, 1/2" thick pieces of solid steel bar in there.  No bolts in or through the bars, just bolts from the top down through the brackets clamping it together.

I think Unistrut 7000 series will be a close replacement and save a bunch of fab work.  It looks like this:

 

P7000-No-Dimensions.png

 

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Additional photos of mounts with ruler.....

 

20220518_090859_1600x1138.jpg.2576a24c07e67b6b4a128ea4376569c7.jpg

 

20220518_091024_1368x1200.jpg.7a32ec436137ccf9fde8d41f06b7f263.jpg

 

20220518_091049_1600x1109.jpg.e0f56c32d0c065e8a2c87d23325af907.jpg

 

20220518_090934_1111x1200.jpg.8d870e726843e810ac1d7272fdf16685.jpg

 

20220518_090121_1323x1200.jpg.a70ff7f934de48ce73a98a3118876d7e.jpg

 

20220518_090235_1283x1200.jpg.10bea1521413726af7b5bc022f489520.jpg

 

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58 minutes ago, 69lm69gp said:

This may be an option:

1948-1953 Dodge Pilothouse Running Board Braces

 

Disclaimer: I do not know the person selling these. And I have not yet bought a pair, so I cannot comment on how close in size/shape they are to the originals.

Thanks, great find.  And even cheaper than the channel I was thinking of adapting.  I will be placing an order.  I'm not sure they are exactly like the 54up trucks but they should work.

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I would imagine the New 48-53 braces would work for you. I would imagine mounting the boards in position to the  fenders, while installing the braces to the running board mounts. Then marking where they would be welded to the running boards?

 

Just thinking if they were not exactly the same size as your original, would still work & nobody would know the difference.

 

My 1949, the long brace is 30.75" long, 3.25" wide. The others are 5" long & 2.5" wide.  .... I imagine would be what DCM is selling?

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