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Flat/matt paint job


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I went with a "satin" finish. Though because of the color people think it is primer, but the truck was oxidized red when I first got it so for me it is the right color.

 

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How is matt/flat vintage? These trucks were all shiny when they left the factory. They went from factory shiny to dull original colour and then kinda to rusty patina. Matt black was never in their history. For kinda the same money you can get a decent paint job and a nice looking truck that is a bit more colourful. Matt black is highly over-rated! Just my thoughts. 

Edited by RobertKB
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I am aware they didn't leave the factory with a flat finish but I am wanting it to look it's age instead of something that just rolled off the showroom.  I know a lot of truck owners want that look.  It is their truck and they can do what they want. I am not sure a flat finish is the answer.  That is why I asked for pictures so I could make an educated decision. I like a truck that looks it's age. The previous owner painted my truck in a color combination I do not like so I am looking at all options before I get it repainted.   This pic is the color combination and look I want

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Edited by dgrinnan
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I understand the fact that a non, and I hate this word, restored, vehicle should not shine like new money and folks want that survivor look, (not to be confused with rusty patina)  But a refinished vehicle, would be very hard pressed NOT to have the shine.  Anyway, about any paint product line will offer an additive that will flatten the finish by the degree you are looking.  If doing your own painting, this will be a mix and spray test to get that look, if farming out the paint to a shop, I do recommend you discuss this with them as to brand of paint and level of gloss.  Many have been using X line of product for all their needs and some don't stray from their patent routine.  Stay in his comfort zone for best results whatever the level of shine. 

 

PS   that picture I do like, the little lady is so well framed within the opening of the rear glass.  

Edited by Plymouthy Adams
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   I would have to see a picture of your truck currently. I’d paint the running boards flat black, and dream up a door signage. It’s a small change, but it will change the look a lot. Burgundy or black pinstripes on the louvers on the hood and grill might change the look also. I just could not sand down your truck. There is also a line that runs from the top back of the door to the belt line that can be enhanced with a pinstripe. Just a thought on you making it yours. Rick D.

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Base coat - clear coat might be the shiny modern automotive finish, but I'm under the impression that back when new, these buggies just had a gloss coat of something like lacquer applied.  The clear coat gives a deep luster that protects the base coat, but the simpler gloss coat finish can be maintained.

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Something flat like an unsanded primer surface might hold dirt more. An even, sealed satin type finish might look old enough, like Decotant was saying.  Know what you meant, that it did not come like that. You just want it to look old and not be too expensive.  

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Were the original enamel finishes actually as shiny as lacquer with a clear coat?  I'm thinking that even lacquer wouldn't typically look that shiny if it was not clear coated over the top, or buffed out.  I've done some painting, although I certainly wouldn't consider myself a painter, but I imagine that an experienced painter could make a non-high-gloss finish by using a mix (flattening agent, as already mentioned), or even by using a faster thinner, to reduce the amount of flow during application.  My brother was a professional painter (in an automobile dealership, back in the 80s), and often talked about how challenging it was to match the factory paint quality when fixing a brand new car that had suffered transport damage (think orange peel).  

 

My Dad had a 53 Dodge PU, and had a painter friend repaint it.  He was an experienced painter who used high quality brushes (and probably a rather slow thinner).  You had to look very closely to see that it had not been sprayed.  

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Years ago, I painted a car flat black, with flames.

 

The paint got chalky as it aged.  Granted it was rattle can paint and this was in the 80's so YMMV.  Might want to make sure whatever paint you go with has UV protectants in it.

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A late member of this forum Grey Beard had a PH that he painted w a brush and roller.  He chronicled the project on this forum. I had the pleasure to meet and talk to him and his brother at a truck show in Macungie, PA.  You could not tell that the truck hadn’t been sprayed and it had a nice old looking gloss.  I got tired of mine being in primer so I rattle canned it and rubbed the heck out of it 15 years ago.  Still looks good and gets a lot of compliments.

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You can do matte in single stage or base clear. I have painted many cars, bikes and trucks in matte. I have my jobber mix in flattening base into the paint if it's single stage. Usually PPG Delfleet. It's up to the customer to decide on the degree of gloss. 60 degree gloss is about what you are looking for. Hotrod Flats is also a good matte finish but it comes premixed at around 30 degree gloss. You can also buy matte clear but for a solid with no metallic or pearl, I shoot single stage. Rattle can paint is garbage. It has no UV protection and goes to crap quickly. You want a catalyzed urethane if you want it to last. I shot an old Toyota four wheeler for my nephew 10 years ago with Hotrod Flatz and it still is holding up. Another cheap option is regular old hardened enamel. Think Rust-Oleum or even Tractor Supply paint. It will be shiny for a bit but it quickly dulls off. 

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Mine has a lot of history  First I dicoverd the original paint was solid so i kept it. Was a beautiful truck, then it was toasted in my shop fire so I cleaned it  again and covers it with clear satin. But that is not holding well.  I like patina, all flat, go slow.  

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