Brake Adjustment procedure??

[Jims50chrysler]

I almost have my front suspension back together so I am looking ahead to my next task and that will be the brake shoes, I have to replace these as well as some hold down hardware.

My question is how is a fella suposed to adjust the brakes if he doesn't have a brake drum gauge or a brake shoe gauge?

Is there a tool I can make??

oops I found this thread after I posted http://www430.pair.com/p15d24/mopar_forum/showthread.php?t=3415&highlight=brake+adjustment

Thanks in advance

Jim

[PatS....]

There is also this that Gerald has put on the "Downloads" page on the main site:

http://www40.addr.com/~merc583/mopar/p15pdf/brake.pdf

[Jims50chrysler]

Thanks Pat S I got that, probably going to attempt this job within the next couple weeks.

Jim

[FiredomeVorhese]

Here's a couple more questions...

When using the hub puller, what's the best way to finesse it? I was told tighten, pound around edges of drum, loosen, tighten again, repeat.

Do I need to have the brakes bled before I adjust/center the brakes?

What are the specs on using the centering tool... .03" clearance?

[FiredomeVorhese]

I found some of my answers here

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Lit/Master/009/cover.htm

[Merle Coggins]

Here's a couple more questions...

When using the hub puller, what's the best way to finesse it? I was told tighten, pound around edges of drum, loosen, tighten again, repeat.

With one of these.

There's nothing to finesse. Smack the he!! out of it with a BFH. I'm refering to the knocker arm that turns the center bolt of the puller, not the drum itself. I also recommend leaving the nut on loose. When it pops loose the nut will keep it from flying across your garage.

Merle

[wayfarerstranger]

i adjusted my brakes last night on my 49 PLYMOUTH WOODIE without any tool & they work great , i have never needed any special tool to adjust these brakes & i have a fleet of these cars . i don`t really understand what the big deal is ??

[Plymouthy Adams]

adjustment is possible..adjustment for proper smooth wear heel to toe is nigh onto impossible without the guage..but for no more than most these cars get driven annually..they ought to last quite a spell..also once a worn set of shoes are set without the guage..the shoe is preconditioned for the life of the shoe even with the tool unless you send them out to be ground for correct arc..

[james curl]

I changed to disc brakes because I had all new wheel cylinders from Roberts, a new Master Cylinder, all new brake hoses, relined shoes and the drums turned. Tried all of the home made adjusting tricks here on the forum and was never satisfied in their stopping power. I have a 55 Chevy pick up with four wheel drums and would never consider going to discs because of the increase in unsprung weight on the straight axle. It has Bendix style brakes and I have no problem adjusting them and can lock all four wheels at once which I have never been able to do on my 48 Plymouth even with disc on front. I cannot even lock the fronts up, but it stops so much faster than the front drums did that I have no regrets for the change.

[Don Coatney]

Adjustment without the proper tool will lead to a wear pattern as pictured.

[Plymouthy Adams]

Don's picture (thank by the way) is prime example of what I was writing about in the above entry..while you may hve brakes..your shoes are not properly arc'ed to faced the drum..now bare in mind this adds yet another scenerio...the worn spot as pictured was for the longest time the only contact spot for stopping power..less effective braking than the engineers had in mind..

[Don Coatney]

Suggest any one making adjustments without the proper tool take a "sharpie" and make several hash marks across the length of both shoes from short edge to short edge. Re-install the drum and go for a drive and hit the brakes a few times. Then remove the drum and see how many hash marks are still on the shoe.

[Gary Manes]

I am not sure it affects the brake wear or stopping ability, but something I have in my pile of info says to taper (grind) the shoes about 1/2" on both ends of the brake shoes.

My shop was able to adjust the brakes so that I get a pretty good straight line stop (1948 New Yorker club coupe). Once in a while I notice one of the front wheel brakes grabbing just before the other. So far, that has not been a serious problem.

I now have one of the tools.

[desoto1939]

I have both of these tools. The Ammco is the eaiser of the two tools to do the brake ajustment. I will lend out the ammco tool since it only weight about 2-3 lbs to ship but as all of you know these tools are getting harder to find and the cost to replace is not cheap. There is one on ebay for $475.

I will lend the tool but will require a deposit onthe tool and when the tool is returned you get your money back. This is the fairest way that I can guarantee that i get the tool returned or you lose your money and then get a bad post from me. I am only trying to be fair but since I personally do not know everyone I have to protect my investments also.

Write to me and I will explain in detail how it works. I live near Valley Forge PA which is near Philadelphia pa. I have done a lecture on the Ammco and the MTC 19 Miller Brake tool at the AACA convention that was held in Phila PA last feburary.

Rich Hartung

Desoto1939@aol.com

[FiredomeVorhese]

That's a real nice offer rich. Maybe it would be in everyone's interest to try to copy the tool and make a new batch of them? I'm a cad designer and I work a lot with different fabrication shops in the usa and china.

Anyway I made this cheapy tool. 3/4" hole saw, long threaded bolt. I put on the drum (not all the way on the rears so I can get it back off easy). I tighten one shoe with the minor adjustment until the drum stops. I then back it off just enough so the drum spins again. I take off the drum, and I find the widest spot on the shoe and set my tool to that radius. Then I can adjust the shoes to one consistent radius. The shoes need to be .003" distance from the inner drum surface, that's hardly more than an eyelash.

[woodie49]

I am reaching into the way-back machine quite a few years, but I do remember that we used to have a guy who came out to our gas station with a truck and would both arc the shoes and turn the drums, I think whenever we would do a major break job. That was, of course, for cars that didn't have those new-fangled disc brakes. We would all sit around Bs'ing with him and breathing in the asbestos dust as he would do his work - who knew?

Even if you replace the shoes with new ones and you use your adjustment tools as required, don't you still need to arc them? And, I assume if you want the job "done right" you should also turn the drums?

BTW - Firedome - really nice looking job on the brakes. I don't think there is a part on my car that clean.

[Plymouthy Adams]

In 1975 I worked as a mechanic for the local Ford dealership..this was a large operation..body shop and all. The thing that really sticks most in my memory was that if you were doing an oil change, it was dispensed from the parts rooms to your stall/bay by overhead plumbing ito an oil can...yes bulk oil...also in a small room at the very back of the shop sat this little old man..way up there in age at the time, his only function was relining brake shoes..never were any brought out from the parts room or in the back door from a parts house..this guy relined all shoes period..I think he also turned the drums and rotors as needed..this is the last place I ever saw this type operation..it reminded me more of an assembly line shop than repair shop in some aspects..at the next garage (Lincoln-Mercury dealer) you turned your own rotor and drums and sjhoe were in a box...I did not stay a mechanic long..to lean around Christmas and vacation times..went for the salary job at General Dynamics..then right back to working again for the government...still there..